I am wondering if the installing tool is causing the tightness problem.
That could be in some cases. However, those pics are my pics and mine didn't end up tight
Maybe if someone's using that tool and for some reason they aren't going in easily. Or maybe if they didn't get started straight and an impact was being used?
When I installed these, I first ran the press with a regular 1/2 drive ratchet until the joints were installed about 1/4", then carefully drove it home with the impact wrench.
I have read of stiffness in the ball joints. I also read that they are new and need time to wear in a bit. I used a 12 ton shop press to get my old ball joints out and new ones in (no small feat with the less than square knuckles!). I seated them, put the snap ring (on the bottom ball joint), installed the zerks and followed the torquing procedure. I don't notice any stiffness in my steering at all. After reading all the ball joint stuff I could find I was expecting to have to muscle my wheel for 2-3K miles before they were broken in and softenend up.
I didn't notice any stiffness from the moment I dropped the wheels on the ground. So far I haven't had any issues (almost 2 weeks now) and am very pleased with my Moogs. Maybe RockAuto has a magic touch with their parts? All I know is I'm looking forward to another 180K before I have to change them again!
__________________ THE MOOSE
2003 F-250 PSD 7.3 Lariat FX4 CC/SB, 4R100, 3.73LS, dual alternators with 188K+ Miles
AIH delete, In-Tank (ITP) and Harpoon Mod, SS HPX, 203F Thermo w/Billet Housing, FTVB, '08 Rear Diff Cover, Headlight Harness (GOS), Zoodad (King Style), 6637, Foil Delete, Engine/CAC boots (Dieselsite), Moog Ball Joints, BFG Mud-Terrain TA KM2 285/75-16
Real Men Redline Less Than 3500 RPM
__________________
- art k. - Moderator for the Superduty, V10, and FE forums
'01 F250SD SC SB XLT V10 4x4 auto 3.73 Warn hubs Volant CAI, eBay headers and y-pipe - 5-star custom tunes on SCT X3
'97 Cougar XR7 30th Anniv Edition 4.6L
'74 F250 Highboy FE390 deceased! I've been wrong before, I'll be wrong again. Just wait and see.
Hello to all. This is my first post here and I just wanted to thank Racerguy for taking the time to do such a great write up. I have done lots of bearing replacements on 2wd vehicles but never attempted anything on a 4x4 hub, but when the ford guy said it would be about $800 do do the job I decided to attempt it myself. It went alot smoother than I thought it would largely due to the writeup. Thanks again Racerguy, rep points have been given and were much deserved!
So, I changed my ball joints, and learned a lot about my truck in the process. I followed these instructions to the letter and found that this was a simple job with two exceptions............ I ordered the ball joint kit from www.powerstrokeshop.com and found that the knuckle seals are different from the parts my local dealer sold me. The parts from Wabash Ford do not include the metal dust seal the has to be inserted onto the shaft first. They are simply a bare rubber seal with a metal race. Not to say that these parts are incorrecect, only that you need to pay attention when it comes to assembly. I also found myself completely screwed when i made a seal tool made to exact specifics to a reader on this post. Reader said to make a seal driver from a 12" steel pipe with a 4" flange turned to 3 1/16" to seat the seal. This tool fits the exact opposite of the seal (meaning that you install said seal upside down and have to race to the Ford shop at 11 at night to get another seal). As long as you have spent the time reading and looking the ball joint repair is a breaze.
Reader said to make a seal driver from a 12" steel pipe with a 4" flange turned to 3 1/16" to seat the seal. This tool fits the exact opposite of the seal (meaning that you install said seal upside down and have to race to the Ford shop at 11 at night to get another seal). As long as you have spent the time reading and looking the ball joint repair is a breaze.
Yeah, 3 1/16 would be too small. I had mine turned down to 3 7/8" and it fit like a glove.
Reader said to make a seal driver from a 12" steel pipe with a 4" flange turned to 3 1/16" to seat the seal. This tool fits the exact opposite of the seal (meaning that you install said seal upside down and have to race to the Ford shop at 11 at night to get another seal). As long as you have spent the time reading and looking the ball joint repair is a breaze.
I saw that too. Luckily I had my seal with me at the machine shop so they could test fit it. If you do not have the seal to test fit, the diamater you want is actually 3 7/8 (3.800) inches.
I originally looked at the powerstrokeshop.com kit, but the shipping was upwards of $85 for the kit to be sent to me. I opted to just get the Moog's on-line and get everything else from a dealership.
__________________ THE MOOSE
2003 F-250 PSD 7.3 Lariat FX4 CC/SB, 4R100, 3.73LS, dual alternators with 188K+ Miles
AIH delete, In-Tank (ITP) and Harpoon Mod, SS HPX, 203F Thermo w/Billet Housing, FTVB, '08 Rear Diff Cover, Headlight Harness (GOS), Zoodad (King Style), 6637, Foil Delete, Engine/CAC boots (Dieselsite), Moog Ball Joints, BFG Mud-Terrain TA KM2 285/75-16
Real Men Redline Less Than 3500 RPM
I originally looked at the powerstrokeshop.com kit, but the shipping was upwards of $85 for the kit to be sent to me. I opted to just get the Moog's on-line and get everything else from a dealership.
Me too! I couldn't believe the shipping cost that was quoted on their site.
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All I know is I'm looking forward to another 180K before I have to change them again! 
