Well, I started my 2005 Balljoint and hub work yesterday. Tearing down the parts was a breeze, finding a large enough external clip plier was a whole different story, it took me 2 days to locate one locally. I took the easy way out and took the knuckle and axle to my buddy's machine shop to replace the ball joints and seal, it took him less than 10 minutes and it cost me a 12 pack of beer.
I thought I was free and clear but I ran into a snag, I can't tighten the lower balljoint because the shaft keeps spinning. I have tried the jack method, but nothing. I don't have access to a air compressor, so no impact gun. Anyone have any suggestions?
I already installed the zerk for the bottom ball joint, so I used my floor jack and a big socket that would fit around the zerk then jacked it up some for pressure and it worked like a charm...
__________________ THE MOOSE
2003 F-250 PSD 7.3 Lariat FX4 CC/SB, 4R100, 3.73LS, dual alternators with 188K+ Miles
AIH delete, In-Tank (ITP) and Harpoon Mod, SS HPX, 203F Thermo w/Billet Housing, FTVB, '08 Rear Diff Cover, Headlight Harness (GOS), Zoodad (King Style), 6637, Foil Delete, Engine/CAC boots (Dieselsite), Moog Ball Joints, BFG Mud-Terrain TA KM2 285/75-16
Real Men Redline Less Than 3500 RPM
I have exhausted everything, I even went out to rent a decent size compressor to use my impact gun on. With the balljoint jacked, the stud still moves. I even went to the extend of heating it up a bit to expand the nut, still got nothing. My last option is to get the nut tack welded.
I'm surprised. Using the floor jack, I just jacked it up until it started to lift the truck and everything worked fine (I definitely applied some pressure).
Good luck and let us know what you did to solve your problem. I would recommend not tack welding. People have reported poor handling from improper ball joint torquing. I followed the torquing sequence and all is well. I don't even notice any tightness that people have written of either. The sequence is:
1. Torque the lower ball joint to 35 ft-lbs (this will stop the rotation of the ball joint also).
2. Torque the upper ball joint to 69 ft-lbs and install cotter pin (if the hole doesn't line up with the castellated nut, tighten until the hole lines up to put the pin through...DO NOT loosen the nut for this).
3. Torque the lower ball joint to 150 ft-lbs.
This sequence is for the OEM Motorcraft ball joints and for the Moog ball joints. I followed these instructions and I have no issues with steering, wander or tightness.
__________________ THE MOOSE
2003 F-250 PSD 7.3 Lariat FX4 CC/SB, 4R100, 3.73LS, dual alternators with 188K+ Miles
AIH delete, In-Tank (ITP) and Harpoon Mod, SS HPX, 203F Thermo w/Billet Housing, FTVB, '08 Rear Diff Cover, Headlight Harness (GOS), Zoodad (King Style), 6637, Foil Delete, Engine/CAC boots (Dieselsite), Moog Ball Joints, BFG Mud-Terrain TA KM2 285/75-16
Real Men Redline Less Than 3500 RPM
I tried everything from low pressure to high pressure, still got nothing. Even the 1/2 drive, running 120 PSI wasn't doing the trick, at this point I guess I am stuck. Thanks to everyone for the input.
Also, I did follow the instruction on the MOOG instruction sheet, which is exactly as Brian has posted.
Just finished mine yesterday, and had same problem as you. I also installed Moogs. I even tried to use screwdriver and such, inserted into the slot in top of balljoint to hold balljoint in place, and used a large adjustable to get the nut turning, and that did not work either. ( very awkward angle with screwdriver and knuckle in the way.)
Putting a jack on the bottom does nothing to prevent stud from turning.
Here's what I did do that worked...
I always save all my old parts until any job is completed, just in case things don't go well, and for reasons like this. Get your old nuts for the lower balljoints and try tightening with those. The threads on those are a bit looser than the new ones and don't grip the threads as much as the new nuts do. With these nuts, and this time using a thin open end wrench, maybe 3/8 size or so (distributer wrench is what they call them) , holding it sideways into the slot for grip, I was able to get these nuts to travel all the way down the threads until they seated. Once seated, friction took over and I was able to tighten up. Now you can remove old nuts and replace with new ones if you desire.
^ Did that already. I intitially had the issue with the new nut. I was able to get it all the way down but not tight. So I figured let me try to get the old nut on, that also gave me the same problem but I was able to get it down and seating. I then removed the nut with a impact gun, it was giving me a hard time to get out, but it eventually came off. Lastly, I try to get the new one back on but that left me in the situation I am now. I have tried removing the nut, but it won't budge; it won't tight nor loosen.
I appreciate everyone's input on this. I am going to take it out for a drive on the freeway in a few minutes and see how it feel with the way it is right now. I used loctite and also placed a mark to make sure the nut doesn't back out. Probably next week I will replace it for a new one, it is a lifetime warrantied part.
FYI: Just to add a little piece of advice to this thread.
DO NOT BUY "MOOG" JOINTS FROM ANYONE ON EBAY. They will show the same part # and when you recieve them, the brand name will be "true speed". These joints are so stiff I couldn't turn the knuckle by hand. I have taken the truck to several auto repair facilities and they said they've never seen ball joints so tight. It will cause wandering, hard steering from center, bump-steer and premature failure of the steering gearbox.
My trucks front tire is wearing on the outside passanger side and has been running a little wobbly. I looked at the whole front tire, and it seems to be leaking a fluid out of the area where the axle goes into the axle housing. Is there a bearing seal in there? And what is it leaking? Is it the fluid that goes into the front pumpkin? I dont think the ball joints and universal joints are bad.
Funny thing is I just replaced the wheel bearing and universal joints in my wife's Jeep last weekend. So, I kinda know what I am doing. My f-250 is just a bigger jeep in many ways. I have pictures of the area but I don't think I have enough posts yet to post pictures.
My trucks front tire is wearing on the outside passanger side and has been running a little wobbly. I looked at the whole front tire, and it seems to be leaking a fluid out of the area where the axle goes into the axle housing. Is there a bearing seal in there? And what is it leaking? Is it the fluid that goes into the front pumpkin? I dont think the ball joints and universal joints are bad.
Funny thing is I just replaced the wheel bearing and universal joints in my wife's Jeep last weekend. So, I kinda know what I am doing. My f-250 is just a bigger jeep in many ways. I have pictures of the area but I don't think I have enough posts yet to post pictures.
without knowing the year of the truck it makes it hard...
on 99-04 f250 if there is liquid coming out of the front axle tube past the dust seal then make sure it is diff fluid... water and mud will get into the tube cause the dust seal is a POS...
if it is diff fluid.. then your inner axle seals (by the gears) are shot... and good luck with that cause i never done it and i would not attempt it on my own
My trucks front tire is wearing on the outside passanger side and has been running a little wobbly. I looked at the whole front tire, and it seems to be leaking a fluid out of the area where the axle goes into the axle housing. Is there a bearing seal in there? And what is it leaking? Is it the fluid that goes into the front pumpkin? I dont think the ball joints and universal joints are bad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury45
without knowing the year of the truck it makes it hard...
on 99-04 f250 if there is liquid coming out of the front axle tube past the dust seal then make sure it is diff fluid... water and mud will get into the tube cause the dust seal is a POS...
if it is diff fluid.. then your inner axle seals (by the gears) are shot... and good luck with that cause i never done it and i would not attempt it on my own
kenny
Kenny is right. The axle tube is just one long drive shaft housing. When you take the axle out you can see down the axle tube (usually has some dust/dirt in there since the dust seal is junk) and into the differential. The only fluid that can be coming from there is the oil from the differential, down the tube and past the dust seal.
As for your tire wear, it needs an alignment. What do you mean by wobbly? If you mean you can feel it hop or vibrate while you drive, then it needs to be rebalanced (especially since it is wearing unevenly), but it could be a separating belt too. If you mean wobbly when you jack it up and you can move it around, then you have other issues...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Destroya
FYI: Just to add a little piece of advice to this thread.
DO NOT BUY "MOOG" JOINTS FROM ANYONE ON EBAY. They will show the same part # and when you recieve them, the brand name will be "true speed". These joints are so stiff I couldn't turn the knuckle by hand. I have taken the truck to several auto repair facilities and they said they've never seen ball joints so tight. It will cause wandering, hard steering from center, bump-steer and premature failure of the steering gearbox.
The cheapest place I found Moog's was at http://www.rockauto.com/. They are great. They have great prices and low shipping prices. If you are looking for OEM replacement parts (or alternates), this is the place to go (plus they are a sponsor).
__________________ THE MOOSE
2003 F-250 PSD 7.3 Lariat FX4 CC/SB, 4R100, 3.73LS, dual alternators with 188K+ Miles
AIH delete, In-Tank (ITP) and Harpoon Mod, SS HPX, 203F Thermo w/Billet Housing, FTVB, '08 Rear Diff Cover, Headlight Harness (GOS), Zoodad (King Style), 6637, Foil Delete, Engine/CAC boots (Dieselsite), Moog Ball Joints, BFG Mud-Terrain TA KM2 285/75-16
Real Men Redline Less Than 3500 RPM
I have actually replaced mine for the third time now with Raybestos brand joints. They are greaseable and seem to be a better quality part compared to the MOOG joints I had several times before.
I had significant problems after installation of moog ball joints. My truck was hard to steer, wandered and was a bear to drive. I removed them at 3k miles and replaced with ebay purchased "moog" joints that showed up in "true speed" boxes. They all had the same stampings as the moog joints so I used them. Situation was the same after these. 2k miles and there they are, on the floor next to the other stiff moog joints. I switched to Raybestos and haven't had a single problem since. The even looked to be better quality.
Last edited by Destroya; 07-21-2009 at 08:48 PM.
Reason: spelling
I have noticed a few people making comments about tight steering after replacing the ball joints, or wander, or hard to drive. In looking at the instructions which several people have kindly posted, and researching the tools used, I am wondering if the installing tool is causing the tightness problem. The spec on the install tube for the upper and lower BJ is 1 13/16" ID. The tube fits over the top of the BJ and onto the shoulder of the upper joint. But on the bottom BJ, the top is 1.95" OD, meaning the tube should be 2" ID in order to press on the shoulder of the BJ to install. The area where the tube is pushing is where the BJ is compressed (clinched) at the factory to contain the stud in final assembly. This pressure could clinch the stud tighter into the body and cause this problem of tight steering.
I also discovered this when I put ball joints in my Ranger, and had a tight steering issue. I replaced the tight side, and made an install tube to push on the shoulder instead of the top. That did make all the difference.
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