ello i have a 250 2006 4x4 i changing all ball joint this week-end,but im sure i have broked my seal
any body have place on any site whit pictures or video to explaine changing the seal axel on a 2006 super duty
Tank you
excuse me for my english
I put some pictures up earlier in this thread from when I dismantled my '06. There seems to be very little info on the later models.
The coil sprung 4x4 F250's have a much larger uni-joint and knuckle seal. It's much harder to remove than earlier models.
As for replacement knuckle seal. I ordered them from rockauto.com but they were NOT the correct ones. Turns out it wasn't their fault. They were just going by Federal Mogul's info which is wrong. I haven't found anywhere else with them yet. Fortunately I don't need them yet.
So if anyone needs a pair of knuckle seals National part#710494 (od=4.7/16"), send me a pm.
I am doing this ball joint and uni joint replacement now on my 2005 F250 (82,000) and everything seems to be going according to what you guys have on here except I can't get the sensor off the top of the wheel bearing housing. I can spin it back and forth after taking the bolt out, but it won't come out. Is there a trick to getting that thing out, with out breaking it, that I'm missing? I have the wheel bearing housing loose from the knuckle already but I just need to get the sensor off.
And of course the uni joint is bad on one side and the ball joints are bad on the other side. Might as well replace them all since I have to take both side off. Yeah.
I am doing this ball joint and uni joint replacement now on my 2005 F250 (82,000) and everything seems to be going according to what you guys have on here except I can't get the sensor off the top of the wheel bearing housing. I can spin it back and forth after taking the bolt out, but it won't come out. Is there a trick to getting that thing out, with out breaking it, that I'm missing? I have the wheel bearing housing loose from the knuckle already but I just need to get the sensor off.
And of course the uni joint is bad on one side and the ball joints are bad on the other side. Might as well replace them all since I have to take both side off. Yeah.
Thanks for any help you can give me guys. T.J.
leave the sensor right where it is... and unplug it from behind the wheel well
Wow thanks for the quick response. Yeah don't know how I missed that part in the post when I read it earlier. That was easy. Thanks. Wheel bearing housing is off now and knuckle is loose from the axle, now to get the axle shaft out of the knuckle to replace the uni joint in the axle shaft.
Wow thanks for the quick response. Yeah don't know how I missed that part in the post when I read it earlier. That was easy. Thanks. Wheel bearing housing is off now and knuckle is loose from the axle, now to get the axle shaft out of the knuckle to replace the uni joint in the axle shaft.
Thanks again, Kenny.
those u joints in the axle shaft hardly ever go bad (remember they are used for 4x4 only)
Its true that they don't see much action, but for me it was a LONG way in there to not replace them. I didn't want to have to take all that apart some day just to do the axle u-joints. If everything else goes smooth, you can still count on an extra $70ish for new knuckle seals. I don't think I could remove the axle and have confidence that I didn't damage that big seal in the process.
And, unless you do some hardcore off roading, they usually don't fail from use. Its usually from the lack of use -- water getting in them, you can't grease them, they sit in the same position for long periods of time and they eventually freeze up. I've had this happen on my old Ranger and my Explorer too and sure enough, the ones on my SD were a little bit dry inside....
Its true that they don't see much action, but for me it was a LONG way in there to not replace them. I didn't want to have to take all that apart some day just to do the axle u-joints. If everything else goes smooth, you can still count on an extra $70ish for new knuckle seals. I don't think I could remove the axle and have confidence that I didn't damage that big seal in the process.
And, unless you do some hardcore off roading, they usually don't fail from use. Its usually from the lack of use -- water getting in them, you can't grease them, they sit in the same position for long periods of time and they eventually freeze up. I've had this happen on my old Ranger and my Explorer too and sure enough, the ones on my SD were a little bit dry inside....
My $0.02
at least twice a year i take my sealed assembly off to grease the needle bearing in back... i have it down to a system now... takes about 1.5 - 2.5 hour per side once the tools are in place and the truck is jacked up and the wheels are off...
Its true that they don't see much action, but for me it was a LONG way in there to not replace them. I didn't want to have to take all that apart some day just to do the axle u-joints. If everything else goes smooth, you can still count on an extra $70ish for new knuckle seals. I don't think I could remove the axle and have confidence that I didn't damage that big seal in the process.
I agree about changing the u-joints while you are in there. Nice heftly u-joint in the 60, though. But, my balljoints failed at such low mileage, I didn't.
And, any seal .... if I disturb it, I replace it.
Quote:
Not only that but they only get 1/3rd off the force each (3 joints essentially, total).
I agree about changing the u-joints while you are in there. Nice heftly u-joint in the 60, though. But, my balljoints failed at such low mileage, I didn't.
And, any seal .... if I disturb it, I replace it.
???
i have had the same seal on my truck out of the knuckle at least 5 times now and have had the wheel under water... and there has been no water that got through...
but if you all want to blow 70 bux everytime you are in there... feel free - it is better to replace the seal but i see it as a little waste
Thanks 'rubey' for the 2wd install information. I kinda suffered through all the previous 4wd info hoping for some reliable info for our vehicles. No slight for the other guys though, as their posts were spot on also...
[quote=rubey;5304431]I have a 1999 F350 2WD 7.3 Diesel Crew Cab. I have owned the truck since it was new and I have never used the truck to anywhere near its capability. As a result I did not have to replace the ball joints until approximately 190k miles.
Bitchin write up... Thanks. Quick question? I put my 2005 Excursion 4x4 on jacks and checked for wheel movement by grabbing the bottom of the tire, there was none. The problem that i'm having is when I am driving and make a right turn my front-end on the right side knocks then when I turn it to the left the same side knocks again... Ball joints, what do you think? Thanks
Bitchin write up... Thanks. Quick question? I put my 2005 Excursion 4x4 on jacks and checked for wheel movement by grabbing the bottom of the tire, there was none. The problem that i'm having is when I am driving and make a right turn my front-end on the right side knocks then when I turn it to the left the same side knocks again... Ball joints, what do you think? Thanks
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