Thanks for the list of parts! Excellent! I'll bring it to my Napa guy and see what he has/can get. I do happen to have an Advance Auto just around the corner from Napa. I'll check on the SD BJ press.
In case you didn't notice in that list of parts ..... that first item is the needle bearing that goes in the hub .... although its repackable, I think its a good idea to go ahead and replace it while you are in there.
The final item is the locking 4X4 hub, which you don't need.
My AdvanceAuto is around the corner from NAPA for me, too. I feel bad that I buy all the parts at NAPA, but I use Advance's free use of the Press to do the job. Lol. So, I buy fluids and filters from Advance.
In case you didn't notice in that list of parts ..... that first item is the needle bearing that goes in the hub .... although its repackable, I think its a good idea to go ahead and replace it while you are in there.
The final item is the locking 4X4 hub, which you don't need.
My AdvanceAuto is around the corner from NAPA for me, too. I feel bad that I buy all the parts at NAPA, but I use Advance's free use of the Press to do the job. Lol. So, I buy fluids and filters from Advance.
Good luck.
Yeah...I don't (think) I need new auto lock hubs. I'm tackling as much as I can handle right now with everything off. I will get prices from NAPA, although I would like to see if there are any sites I could get better prices from (all-inclusive to save on S&H, discount on large orders).
In my searching, I came upon this really good write-up on replacing ball joints also. I am not sure if it has been referenced here already (if it has, my apologies): sueprdutypsd.com: Ball Joint Replacement Write-Up For Ford F250 Superduty, 1999-2003 4X4 - parts listed here too. I thought there's no such thing as too much information, right? I'll keep ya posted on my progress.
Here's a list of "PARTS FOR BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT" I saw here also:
Yellow O-Rings, for between hub and knuckle (1 PER SIDE) FORD F81Z 4A322AA
Axle Seals, Large outer seal (knuckle seal) (1 PER SIDE) FORD F81Z-3254-CB
Dust Seal, Small inner seal (1 PER SIDE) FORD F81Z-1S175-HCA
Dust Seal, Small inner seal (1 PER SIDE) this may be cheaper NATIONAL 710413
Autolock Hub O ring (part number includes 2 ea.) (1 PER SIDE) FORD 4C3Z-1K106-AA
Ball Joint, Upper (1 PER SIDE) FORD F6TZ3V049BA
Ball Joint, Upper (1 PER SIDE) MOTORCRAFT MCS104273
Ball Joint, Upper (1 PER SIDE), The Moogs have grease zerks. MOOG K80026
Ball Joint, Lower (1 PER SIDE) FORD 2C3Z3V050BA
Ball Joint, Lower (1 PER SIDE) MOTORCRAFT MCS104149
Ball Joint, Lower (1 PER SIDE) , The Moogs have grease zerks. MOOG K8607T
* Axle, Needle Bearing, Front (if needed) FORD C6TZ-3123-A
* Axle, Needle Bearing, Front (if needed) this may be cheaper Napa B2110
* Axle Shaft, Outboard End (if needed) FORD 4C3Z-3B387-AA
* Axle, U-Joint, Front (if needed) FORD F81Z-3249-AA
Thanks again,
Eric
Last edited by EricPero; 04-08-2009 at 12:42 PM.
Reason: Added parts list
Racerguy--I understand where you are coming from not wanting to chance it on the seal. I did end up reusing the seal on the left side--time will tell if that was a mistake.
One more thing about this job--I replaced the ball joints with new ones w/grease fittings--problem is, after everything was installed, I couldn't grease the upper ball joint cause of the axle u-joint. What I ended up having to do is unscrew the standard grease fitting and screw a 45 degree grease fitting in to do the grease, then I had to take out the 45 and replace with the regular to give clearance for the u-joint. I guess I'll be doing that every time I grease from now on--but at least it can be greased now!
I have a 2001 F-350. The OEM upper ball joint has a threaded plug in the grease fitting hole. It took me a while to figure it out. Use a wrench to remove the plug, screw in a grease fitting, grease it up, remove the fitting and replace the plug. If you leave in the grease fitting, the axle u-joint will break it.
In case you didn't notice in that list of parts ..... that first item is the needle bearing that goes in the hub .... although its repackable, I think its a good idea to go ahead and replace it while you are in there.
The final item is the locking 4X4 hub, which you don't need.
My AdvanceAuto is around the corner from NAPA for me, too. I feel bad that I buy all the parts at NAPA, but I use Advance's free use of the Press to do the job. Lol. So, I buy fluids and filters from Advance.
Good luck.
Update and Question:
I got the axle stub and axle assembly out...I loosened the top ball joint (put the castle nut on and pounded the crap out of it with a 2x4 and sledgehammer. Now the bolt on the top BJ is turning and I can't grab hold of the castle nut to back it out. Also....
I pounded the lower BJ and cannot get it to drop for the life of me. Should I rent a pickle fork and try that or are there any other tricks I am missing? I've been pounding the knuckle with a brass hammer and also the BJ, but nothing (siliconed it really good too).
Update and Question:
I got the axle stub and axle assembly out...I loosened the top ball joint (put the castle nut on and pounded the crap out of it with a 2x4 and sledgehammer. Now the bolt on the top BJ is turning and I can't grab hold of the castle nut to back it out. Also....
I pounded the lower BJ and cannot get it to drop for the life of me. Should I rent a pickle fork and try that or are there any other tricks I am missing? I've been pounding the knuckle with a brass hammer and also the BJ, but nothing (siliconed it really good too).
lots of penetrant spray, bang bang bang and repeat.... if you look at my guide... it shows how i banged the heck out of it and if you ruin the threads dont wory about it... i used a long sledge hammer for mine
make sure you got both castle nuts off...
also when you go to put all this stuff back on there are torque specs for the ball joints...
i dont see how a pickle fork will help you get the knuckle off...
The Pickle Fork is for removing the upper and lower balljonts from the axle housing. The free-rental pickle fork at AdvanceAuto will possibly need a few seconds at the grinder to open it up a bit ... but it does the job well.
You did remove the snap ring from the lower ball joint?
Do you have an impact gun? .... may get the nut off the spinning shaft. If you do use an acetylene torch to cut the nut off, use extreme caution if the ball joint is sealed (no grease fitting). We had a balljoint *explode* a minute or two after the nut was cut off the shaft. No joke ---- it could have killed someone.
Quote:
Update and Question:
I got the axle stub and axle assembly out...I loosened the top ball joint (put the castle nut on and pounded the crap out of it with a 2x4 and sledgehammer. Now the bolt on the top BJ is turning and I can't grab hold of the castle nut to back it out. Also....
I pounded the lower BJ and cannot get it to drop for the life of me. Should I rent a pickle fork and try that or are there any other tricks I am missing? I've been pounding the knuckle with a brass hammer and also the BJ, but nothing (siliconed it really good too).
The Pickle Fork is for removing the upper and lower balljonts from the axle housing. The free-rental pickle fork at AdvanceAuto will possibly need a few seconds at the grinder to open it up a bit ... but it does the job well.
You did remove the snap ring from the lower ball joint?
Do you have an impact gun? .... may get the nut off the spinning shaft. If you do use an acetylene torch to cut the nut off, use extreme caution if the ball joint is sealed (no grease fitting). We had a balljoint *explode* a minute or two after the nut was cut off the shaft. No joke ---- it could have killed someone.
I dont want to cut you off iron mine... but it sounds like he is having trouble getting the knuckle (which contains the ball joints) off the knuckle bracket... I think i am starting to remember how the pickle fork may help, for doing this but i do not remember using mine... I just beat the crap out of the ball joint studs with a hammer then when the knuckle dropped i cut the ball joint with a sawzall.... light applications of the torch may help, but i agree it can explode - not good.
Also.... no need to remove the snap ring on the ball joint till you are ready to remove the ball joints from the knuckle... first get the knuckle off the truck.
I dont want to cut you off iron mine... but it sounds like he is having trouble getting the knuckle (which contains the ball joints) off the knuckle bracket... I think i am starting to remember how the pickle fork may help, for doing this but i do not remember using mine... I just beat the crap out of the ball joint studs with a hammer then when the knuckle dropped i cut the ball joint with a sawzall.... light applications of the torch may help, but i agree it can explode - not good.
Yes, he is removing the knuckle from the axle housing. A few wacks on the pickle fork after removing the nuts easily releases the knuckle.
I mentioned to him the snap ring on the lower because I remember mine being so covered in corrosion, etc ... that I did not see it was there when I went to remove the joint.
sorry to dig up a very old thread, but thanks or doing this. I did mine on the weekend using your guide and ALMOST everything turned out ok. Where I screwed up was by not unhooking the ABS sensor from behind the splash shield and trying to remove it from the hub. I think I will have to live with the ABS light being on until the hub goes bad.
Do you have a guide for removing a broken ABS sensor?
sorry to dig up a very old thread, but thanks or doing this. I did mine on the weekend using your guide and ALMOST everything turned out ok. Where I screwed up was by not unhooking the ABS sensor from behind the splash shield and trying to remove it from the hub. I think I will have to live with the ABS light being on until the hub goes bad.
Do you have a guide for removing a broken ABS sensor?
did the sensor break right off in the hub? The abs sensor is mosly magnetic... i have seen people remove the sensor by drilling it out and using a very strng magnet to snatch up the pieces... just remember i beleive the tone ring is in the same housing as the bearings themselfs... so any grit from the sensor you get in there will eventually go to the bearings and either chew them up or chewup the bearings kenny
yeah the sensor is broken right off in the bearing assembly. I think the risk of damaging the bearing is too high. I can live with the abs light being on for now. I have a price of $199 CDN for a new aftermarket bearing w/sensor or a sensor alone from ford for $125. I will probably put a bearing in before winter.
yeah the sensor is broken right off in the bearing assembly. I think the risk of damaging the bearing is too high. I can live with the abs light being on for now. I have a price of $199 CDN for a new aftermarket bearing w/sensor or a sensor alone from ford for $125. I will probably put a bearing in before winter.
you can try just penetrating lubricant and a large magnet no drill bit...? also... forget getting just the sensor from ford - ... i have had a buddy convience his dealer to give him just the sensor and it was like 30 bux... however he did buy 7 trucks through them over like 4 years maybe find a junkyard truck and rob just the sensor, if you can get yours out..? I hate ABS anyway, the light on will hurt anything except you wont have abs kenny
ello i have a 250 2006 4x4 i changing all ball joint this week-end,but im sure i have broked my seal
any body have place on any site whit pictures or video to explaine changing the seal axel on a 2006 super duty
Tank you
excuse me for my english
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