How to replace your Super Duty Ball Joints - Page 2

dagwood41 · #16 (**permalink**) 03-30-2005, 10:11 PM

Its is done and it even works. Ball Joints, o-rings and seals $230.00. Borrowed a seal driver from a local trucking company (If I ever do it again I will just buy one) which looks just like the one in the pictures. 3 1/2 hours to tear down and clean everything up and 3 1/2 to put it back together, took my time and checked everything. Then I went and did the easiest thing on the truck there is, put rear rear disc brake pads on. That was easy about 40 mins, took longer to get the tires and wheels off and on than it did to put on the pads.

Thanks again Racerguy for your words of wisdom.

Rick

Racerguy · #17 (**permalink**) 03-30-2005, 11:14 PM

Good to hear that you got it done

Any other tips you'd like to add to the instructions here?

tazer · #18 (**permalink**) 03-31-2005, 06:55 AM

to dagwood Have you seen seal drivres commercially available like the one in the picture if so I am interested as sooner or later I will have to do it again.

dagwood41 · #19 (**permalink**) 03-31-2005, 04:24 PM

rlkern

They are available any where they sell semi brake shoes and parts or any big truck dealership can set you up with one.

tazer · #20 (**permalink**) 04-02-2005, 07:37 PM

dagwood thanks

kbodge · #21 (**permalink**) 07-21-2005, 09:31 PM

Racerguy, first off let me say thanks great instructions, I used them to tear down my whole front end, replacing the seals, ball joints, axle suport bearings (reason I had to tear it down) etc.. I am trying to clean out the axle tubes and was wondering if you had any pointers on what works best to do this and also on installing the axle back through the tube so it dosn't pick up any grit from the tube. Thanks, any info would be greatly appreciated.

Kev

Racerguy · #22 (**permalink**) 07-22-2005, 12:09 AM

You're welcome

What we use at work for cleaning out the tubes is a piece of pipe with half of a big washer welded to the end of it. You can put the pipe into the tube with the 1/2 washer facing up so it doesn't push the junk in further. Then with the pipe in the tube you twist the pipe so the washer is down and drag the junk out of the tube.

ryaneverk2 · #23 (**permalink**) 07-22-2005, 02:19 AM

What great instructions. I'm saving this all in a Word document for future reference. Thanks a lot, Dave.

PS - why isn't this a sticky in the FAQ or something?

Big Sky · #24 (**permalink**) 07-23-2005, 10:28 AM

Thanks for posting this. I copied it onto word, photos and all as well.

Hootbro · #25 (**permalink**) 07-23-2005, 11:13 PM

Good Information.

GummyF250 · #26 (**permalink**) 12-01-2005, 02:31 PM

Anybody know the Ford part numbers for the hub o-rings,axle seals,dust seals and any other parts I might need to service the spindle needle bearings.My truck is a '04 f250. Thanks in advance if anybody knows.

Miescha · #27 (**permalink**) 12-12-2005, 08:52 PM

Ok, I finished my front end project and it took as long to find the parts as it did to complete the project (about 6 hours each - I worked slow and spent A LOT of time cleaning parts). For those wondering, I am not a mechanic (though I am mechanically inclined) and I have never touched this truck or any other Ford vehicle in the past. I didn't know what a ball joint, knuckle, U-joint, axle stub, or thrust washer was when I started. A huge thanks go to Racer and Fortyfords for their help throughout the project (and after).

Following is what I know regarding part numbers and prices - I hope this helps others avoid the same pain I endured finding parts. Everything I know is listed below - if it is not listed, I do NOT know.

I used all Ford parts except the ball joints - I used NAPA for these. I'm told Ford now has greasable ball joints, but none of the dealers who gave me part numbers had them in stock.

Also, my 1999 F350 4x4 is a 1999.5 (I was just told that may make a difference in the parts needed - I'm happy to have the 'edit' button when posting).

Wheel Bearing:
Ford # C6tZ-3123-A $9.30 each
NAPA # B2110 $6.42 each

Small Knuckle Seal or "Dust Seal"
Ford # F81Z-1S175-HCA $15.46 each
NAPA # 21918 $8.99 each
National #710413 $7.84 each

Large Knuckle Seal or "Oil Seal" (pressed on with special tool)
Ford #F81Z-3254-CB $26.54 each
NAPA N/A N/A

Hub Assembly Seal (small yellow seal)
Ford #F81Z-4A322-AA $3.48 each
NAPA N/A N/A

Upper Ball Joint
NAPA #260-1248 $30.44 each

Lower Ball Joint
NAPA #260-1395 $48.69 each

Auto-Lock Hub
Ford #1C3Z-3B396-CA $279.00 each

I purchased my auto-lock hubs on ebay (new - still sealed in plastic) for $250 with shipping. My Ford dealer wanted $558.32 for the pair. Either way, the new hubs came with new o-ring seals, so I didn't need to buy these (and don't have numbers or prices). If my math is correct, this brings my total parts cost to $517.00 (my dealer wanted about $1,500).

For the ball joints, I "purchased" a press kit from Autozone for about $110, but it really works as a deposit. I returned the kit the next day (although they said I could keep it for up to 90 days) and they fully refunded my money to the last penny - a free rental in the end.

I made my own seal press for the large knuckle seal using 3 steel pipe pieces from lowes - $15.26 total amount spent and 3 minutes to assemble pieces.

I hope this helps everyone else doing this job.

vancouverpower · #28 (**permalink**) 12-12-2005, 09:15 PM

Good job on the write up! Can you put this in the articles/specs area at the top of the page so it can be found fast later? Thanks again.

Miescha · #29 (**permalink**) 12-12-2005, 09:19 PM

Racer's write-up really is awesome (it is what motivated me to even try the project with no prior experience). Maybe one of the moderators can figure out how to make this easy to find.

Also, Fortyfords has a ton of knowledge in this area and always seems happy to help.

hink10 · #30 (**permalink**) 12-30-2005, 10:56 AM

I picked up some ball joints at AutoZone, pretty good price. Anyone know if they are good quality, or should I go to Napa? Thanks.