1) I turn my rotors, unless the machine shop says they've reached their maximum life. I've had no issues with rotors. My brake problems have been with the caliper slide pins ---- make sure you inspect/clean/lube them.
2) Personally, since you already removed the hub (usually the hardest job), I'd replace the balljoints, grease-knuckle seal, axle-dust seal.
3) The entire axle-stubshaft assy just slides out of the axle tube ... ujoint and all.
4) At 105,000 miles, my axle ujoints remain nice and tight .... and I've never heard of people having them fail. But, examine it closely when you remove it ---- easy to rebuild.
Good luck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricPero
I am working on my brakes/rotors (2000 F-350 SD 4WD) and I came across some "obstacles" that I noticed my thread should be included here. Can someone check out the pictures and please tell me the following (I have never replaced BJ's, bearings...only pads/rotors):
1) Should I try to get the rotors turned or just replace them? I don't have a caliper to measure the thickness and since this is a previously owned truck [I bought it 11/07] I am not sure.
2) Should I replace the ball joints since I have this stripped down to the spindle axle? I did this because I noticed play in the axle going into the driveshaft (picture with me pointing to seal) and the space in the seal. I wasn't sure if there should be play here or not?
3) Should I remove the spindle axle and if so, do I just pull it out (knock it or pry it from the u-joint)? I guess yes, since I have to get to the axle seal.
4) Should I replace the u-joint bearings if I get the spindle axle out?
Its the large seal that is installed onto the axle shaft (with a bought/built installation tool) outboard of the axle u-joint, and is then fit into the knuckle.
I called it a grease seal because it is a solid, weather-proof seal ... unlike the dust seal that goes in the axle tube end. I believe it protects the sealed bearing and needle bearing the bearing/hub? Maybe I should not have used the term ... grease.
Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury45
iron mine, what is a grease - knuckle seal
the knuckle seal holds no grease anywhere what so ever
Its the large seal that is installed onto the axle shaft (with a bought/built installation tool) outboard of the axle u-joint, and is then fit into the knuckle.
I called it a grease seal because it is a solid, weather-proof seal ... unlike the dust seal that goes in the axle tube end. I believe it protects the sealed bearing and needle bearing the bearing/hub? Maybe I should not have used the term ... grease.
Jim
ok then i agree... just thought you were saying there is grease in there and there is not.
yes the needle bearing and sealed wheel bearing assy is protected by that weather seal.
the needle bearing by the way is a torrington B2110 - i have had to change mine because of the missing knuckle seal
1) I turn my rotors, unless the machine shop says they've reached their maximum life. I've had no issues with rotors. My brake problems have been with the caliper slide pins ---- make sure you inspect/clean/lube them.
2) Personally, since you already removed the hub (usually the hardest job), I'd replace the balljoints, grease-knuckle seal, axle-dust seal.
3) The entire axle-stubshaft assy just slides out of the axle tube ... ujoint and all.
4) At 105,000 miles, my axle ujoints remain nice and tight .... and I've never heard of people having them fail. But, examine it closely when you remove it ---- easy to rebuild.
Good luck.
So...to due this whole job....what "special tools" would I need and what specific parts should I order? I usually get mine from Napa FYI.
Thanks for all the help so far! I am hoping to get this beast back on the road again soon!
eric did you get my PM.... it tells you about the tools and seals... theres a site somewhere that sells the seals and stub shafts / u joints...
forget the special tools you can do it with a piece of pipe welded to a flange or 3 c clamps...
but if i had to guess
ball joints will be about 350 for both sides top and bottom
seals are 80 per side from ford
special seal driver is figure 100 bux
so for about 500 - 550 you can do it all yourself, or give ford like 1200
part of the whole thing is getting in there and doing it...
double check what you actually need.... if you dont need the seals... dont get them
kenny
Kenny,
I received your reply from the thread I started in the other forum (http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/83...e-problem.html). Would the tool that was noted earlier in this forum "I would call it the galvanized 1"x1/4" seal installer) work instead of the "Lisle seal installer?
I would rather get all of the correct part numbers from everyone here instead of trying to guess the parts...I don't want to go to the Ford dealer since their markup is rediculous.
you must understand.... i bought these seals from ford... i do not know the website that i noticed later on after that... just do a search for 99-04 F250 stub shafts and stub axle seals... maybe you will find something
Wheel Bearing:
Ford # C6tZ-3123-A $9.30 each
NAPA # B2110 $6.42 each
Small Knuckle Seal or "Dust Seal"
Ford # F81Z-1S175-HCA $15.46 each
NAPA # 21918 $8.99 each
National #710413 $7.84 each
Large Knuckle Seal or "Oil Seal" (pressed on with special tool)
Ford #F81Z-3254-CB $26.54 each
NAPA N/A N/A
Hub Assembly Seal (small yellow seal)
Ford #F81Z-4A322-AA $3.48 each
NAPA N/A N/A
Upper Ball Joint
NAPA #260-1248 $30.44 each
Lower Ball Joint
NAPA #260-1395 $48.69 each
Auto-Lock Hub
Ford #1C3Z-3B396-CA $279.00 each
My local Ford dealers jack up those listed list prices, btw.
However, I swear I've seen the large knuckle seal on the NAPA website somewhere, but when I go to look it up, I can't find it. I meant to save it, but I didn't. Maybe NAPA is just starting to stock it. I don't know. Have your NAPA parts guy look hard for it. Also, I always get NAPA premium parts instead of their standards, such as for the ball joints.
I used the pieces of galvanized pipe (nipple, end cap, & flange) tool twice on my '02 SD, and it worked fine for me. I did have to slightly grind down the circumference of the flange to fit .... they vary when you buy them.
And, if you're replacing the balljoints ... you'll need a way to get them in and out of the knuckle. Some shops just muscle them with shop tools. Or, if you have an Advance Auto or AutoZone, you can borrow their BallJoint Press to do the job (in my area, Advance Auto has the new press kit that includes all the items to do SuperDutys; AutoZone's kit did not, and you had to improvise with some large sockets, etc); Or, you can take the knuckle to a local machine/repair shop, and they would press the joints in and out for a small amount of money.
Have you read the first few pages of this topic thread? Lots of info, in addition to RacerGuy's great guide.
And, if you're replacing the balljoints ... you'll need a way to get them in and out of the knuckle. Some shops just muscle them with shop tools. Or, if you have an Advance Auto or AutoZone, you can borrow their BallJoint Press to do the job (in my area, Advance Auto has the new press kit that includes all the items to do SuperDutys; AutoZone's kit did not, and you had to improvise with some large sockets, etc); Or, you can take the knuckle to a local machine/repair shop, and they would press the joints in and out for a small amount of money.
Have you read the first few pages of this topic thread? Lots of info, in addition to RacerGuy's great guide.
Thanks for the list of parts! Excellent! I'll bring it to my Napa guy and see what he has/can get. I do happen to have an Advance Auto just around the corner from Napa. I'll check on the SD BJ press. Oh, one other thing...I want to remove the tie rod from the knuckle; I don't like the idea of using a pickle fork to separate it. Is there a "press-type" tool that can disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle without ruining the tie rod boot that a pickle fork can do?
TIA,
Eric
P.S. I have read both Racerguy's (and Mercury 45's) docs; they are a wealth of information and make me feel much more comfortable doing this job!
Thanks for the list of parts! Excellent! I'll bring it to my Napa guy and see what he has/can get. I do happen to have an Advance Auto just around the corner from Napa. I'll check on the SD BJ press. Oh, one other thing...I want to remove the tie rod from the knuckle; I don't like the idea of using a pickle fork to separate it. Is there a "press-type" tool that can disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle without ruining the tie rod boot that a pickle fork can do?
TIA,
Eric
P.S. I have read both Racerguy's (and Mercury 45's) docs; they are a wealth of information and make me feel much more comfortable doing this job!
there was a place online that sold the seals and stub shafts... i cant remember where... they sold entire kits for what you want to do and they were pretty cheap...
keep looking.. and check other ford sites... a guy named snopro used to know i think
and for the tie rod end... whack the meat of the knuckle near the tie rod end with a hammer and it will loosen it up... you really want a tie rod end puller but the hammer works
there was a place online that sold the seals and stub shafts... i cant remember where... they sold entire kits for what you want to do and they were pretty cheap...
keep looking.. and check other ford sites... a guy named snopro used to know i think
and for the tie rod end... whack the meat of the knuckle near the tie rod end with a hammer and it will loosen it up... you really want a tie rod end puller but the hammer works
kenny
Kenny,
Thanks...I'll try beating the $rap out of it. I'm still searching everywhere for the kit to replace the whole end. Otherwise, I'll just have to ala carte it.
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