i'm having problems removing lower ball joint on pass. side any thoughts?
Are you using a press? If you are, tighten the press and at the same time, hit the area around the ball joint with a hammer. The shock from the hammer blows will help it on out.
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Trevor
01 F-350 CC 8ft bed SRW 7.3L a/t. 149k
PAA Member #7
The coolest trick I read really worked well on the right side. Back the knuckle nuts off all but 3 or 4 threads. And use a impact driver - aka air chisel,muffler cutter etc with a straight driver in it. It drove the bearing right out of the knuckle.
just did ball joints driver side im hearing the same telltale dry creaking noise that lead me to find
my drivers side lower worn anyways i've seen complete kits (4 ball joints and all seals)
does anyone no of a single side kit available?
just did ball joints driver side im hearing the same telltale dry creaking noise that lead me to find
my drivers side lower worn anyways i've seen complete kits (4 ball joints and all seals)
does anyone no of a single side kit available?
do both sides... if one side went already the other side is close dont fool around with this spend the extra 100 bux and get it done right thats my thoughts as for the lower ball joint posing a problem for somebody make sure the c-clip is removed kenny
do both sides... if one side went already the other side is close dont fool around with this spend the extra 100 bux and get it done right thats my thoughts as for the lower ball joint posing a problem for somebody make sure the c-clip is removed kenny
I followed racers instructions and successfully replaced my ball joints. I must admitt that this job is not for the faint hearted. Im pretty experianced and found this job difficult. The hub bearing was rusted in place and hard to remove. Driving the knuckle seal on to the axle was almost impossible with pvc fittings I made up. I wouldnt do that again as I nearly ruined the seal before I had it in place. Luckily it all works well. It took a day before I was standing strait again. Thanks for the help, I needed it. -stue
I followed racers instructions and successfully replaced my ball joints. I must admitt that this job is not for the faint hearted. Im pretty experianced and found this job difficult. The hub bearing was rusted in place and hard to remove. Driving the knuckle seal on to the axle was almost impossible with pvc fittings I made up. I wouldnt do that again as I nearly ruined the seal before I had it in place. Luckily it all works well. It took a day before I was standing strait again. Thanks for the help, I needed it. -stue
I know what you mean about driving those seals on with pvc so I made one from some steel surplus I found. That worked great.
Also in RacerGuy's balljoint topic thread was an installation tool made out of 3 pieces of pipe from the hardware store .... $10 .... seems to have worked for all that tried it, including me.
Also in RacerGuy's balljoint topic thread was an installation tool made out of 3 pieces of pipe from the hardware store .... $10 .... seems to have worked for all that tried it, including me.
That tool works great as long as the flange is the right size. The one I got was a hair too big and pressed on the outside of the seal, so I had to trim it down. Worked great after that.
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Trevor
01 F-350 CC 8ft bed SRW 7.3L a/t. 149k
PAA Member #7
That tool works great as long as the flange is the right size. The one I got was a hair too big and pressed on the outside of the seal, so I had to trim it down. Worked great after that.
Actually, my flange was just a bit too wide, also. A few seconds at the bench grinder fixed things up.
Great writeup!!! I am not gonna have any issue with attempting this myself after reading (and saving) this. Hopefully I dont have to do it for awhile, but when I do, I will do it myself.
I am working on my brakes/rotors (2000 F-350 SD 4WD) and I came across some "obstacles" that I noticed my thread should be included here. Can someone check out the pictures and please tell me the following (I have never replaced BJ's, bearings...only pads/rotors):
1) Should I try to get the rotors turned or just replace them? I don't have a caliper to measure the thickness and since this is a previously owned truck [I bought it 11/07] I am not sure.
2) Should I replace the ball joints since I have this stripped down to the spindle axle? I did this because I noticed play in the axle going into the driveshaft (picture with me pointing to seal) and the space in the seal. I wasn't sure if there should be play here or not?
3) Should I remove the spindle axle and if so, do I just pull it out (knock it or pry it from the u-joint)? I guess yes, since I have to get to the axle seal.
4) Should I replace the u-joint bearings if I get the spindle axle out?
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.... then , BAM ... it broke free.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/838902-2000-f-350-front-axle-problem.html
