Originally had a clunk sound in front end a second after hitting the brakes. Ended up finding a leaking tie rod boot in the driver's side, replaced that. Still had a clunk sound (not as bad). Then I pulled the front driver's side tire, was able to wiggle the whole knuckle/hub up and down 1/8" and looked behind to see lots of play in lower ball joint.
Bad timing.... should be a month or so till my new workshop is framed up but I don't think those lower ball joints will last. Thinking maybe replacing the lower BJ without opening the hub up. Can you replace the lower without disturbing anything else? Using the c-clamp press?
Originally had a clunk sound in front end a second after hitting the brakes. Ended up finding a leaking tie rod boot in the driver's side, replaced that. Still had a clunk sound (not as bad). Then I pulled the front driver's side tire, was able to wiggle the whole knuckle/hub up and down 1/8" and looked behind to see lots of play in lower ball joint.
Bad timing.... should be a month or so till my new workshop is framed up but I don't think those lower ball joints will last. Thinking maybe replacing the lower BJ without opening the hub up. Can you replace the lower without disturbing anything else? Using the c-clamp press?
i doubt you will be able to do just the lower ball joint - the reason i say that is cause you need to remove the knuckle to get the lower ball joint out... to remove the knuckle the upper ball joint has to be banged out of the (i will call it the frame fork) this holds the knuckle. by the time you are done beating the upper ball joint - you will need a new upper too
Mercury45 is correct. the amount of work involed to do just the lower ball joint, you might as well do them both. The upper might be ok if you use the press to remove it, but it has already been stressed due to the lower being bad. If your going to pull it apart save your self some aggravation and do them at the same time.
Last edited by vento; 11-30-2008 at 07:39 PM.
Reason: wrong thread
Seal Driver Not Needed, How To Install Vacuum Seal Without Seal Driver Super Duty
Hey Guys,
I used the original posters how to for a couple of Superduty (Mine were 01 & 04 models) ball joint jobs. It work well for me but I figured out a way to install the axle vacuum seal without using a seal driver. I have used this method several times with great success.
1.Put a wheel upside down on the floor,
2.Set the hub assembly on top of the wheel,
3.Set your new vacuum seal correct side up on top of the hub assembly, (i not the fist time, ruined the seal )
4.Put the axle shaft through the hub Assembly,(make sure the shaft is clean)
5.Use the axle as a slide hammer, make sure it gets started evenly, pull the axle up some (not out of the hole) and slam it down, feel free to use a soft hammer to tap on the axle
Putting the Axle back on the truck:
I did the same thing as the original poster to put the axle back on the truck,
I wiped it clean and installed it in as far as I could myself.
Install the flat well greased washer with the groves towards the inside
Put some grease on the axle shaft where the needle bearing from the hub assembly will be riding
Install the hub assembly and start the studs and nuts,
Tighten the nuts evenly to push the axle back in correctly.
If anybody needs the parts to replace your ball joints on one side of you Super Duty, I had the parts for both sides but after doing one side decided to have the other side professionally done and they wouldn't use my parts. I will give you a great deal just to get them out of my garage. I have everything you need not just the ball joints - seals included. Mike.
Seal Driver Not Needed, How To Install Vacuum Seal Without Seal Driver Super Duty
Hey Guys,
I used the original posters how to for a couple of Superduty (Mine were 01 & 04 models) ball joint jobs. It work well for me but I figured out a way to install the axle vacuum seal without using a seal driver. I have used this method several times with great success.
1.Put a wheel upside down on the floor,
2.Set the hub assembly on top of the wheel,
3.Set your new vacuum seal correct side up on top of the hub assembly, (i did not the fist time, ruined the seal )
4.Put the axle shaft through the hub Assembly,(make sure the shaft is
5.Use the axle as a slide hammer, make sure it gets started evenly, pull the axle up some (not out of the hole) and slam it down, feel free to use a soft hammer to tap on the axle
Putting the Axle back on the truck:
I did the same thing as the original poster to put the axle back on the truck,I wiped it clean and installed it in as far as I could myself.
Install the flat well greased washer with the groves towards the inside
Put some grease on the axle shaft where the needle bearing from the hub assembly will be riding
Install the hub assembly and start the studs and nuts,
Tighten the nuts evenly to push the axle back in correctly.
I am new here. This was a great help. I installed a new front axle U-joint just in time for the 12" of snow will get tomorrow. I have changed many in older trucks, but never in a Super Duty. I plan to visit this site often. I have owned Ford F250s since 1978. After the "Blizzard of 78" I said that I would never go through another winter without a four wheel drive.
I am 50/50 of doing this myself. I took apart and found stub axle flange was rubbing back face of bearing assy. (Worn/dry axle support needle bearings.) So I purchased all parts to do swap. But I wonder If I should replace stubaxle to, or is there a thrust washer between the two that was actually rubbing? It was hard to tell with all the old dustseal particles. The axle race seemed smooth.
If I do this myself,
What is the chance of the camber (little sleeve like inserts?)getting out of wack when changing the ball joints?
How can I tell If I need a new axle other than to compare it to a new one?
thanks for all the great write ups and pictures and tooling Ideas,
Ryan
But I wonder If I should replace stubaxle to, or is there a thrust washer between the two that was actually rubbing? It was hard to tell with all the old dustseal particles. The axle race seemed smooth.
If I do this myself,
What is the chance of the camber (little sleeve like inserts?)getting out of wack when changing the ball joints?
How can I tell If I need a new axle other than to compare it to a new one?
thanks for all the great write ups and pictures and tooling Ideas,
Ryan
If nothing looks worn on the stubaxle you should be fine. I would definately replace the thrust washer. It is plastic and will wear before the other parts will. Are the three washers and snap ring on the outer in the the shaft worn(thin or grooved)? If they are replace them too.
The camber sleeves are mounted loosesly when the balljoints are out. There is a great chance they will be out of adjustment when you put it back together. Even your new ball joints could be a little different than the old ones. The to avoid the tire wear the alignment is worth it.
Hey Brodiedehass, thanks for the info. Turns out axle was worn (I compared the drivers side.) the bearing race is larger o.d. than the rest of the shaft.
I was reluctantly dropping truck off at the dealer and they said it wouldent be ready for a few days, So I grabbed my keys and left....
I DID IT! all ball joints, new hub assy, warn hubs, seals and new axle. I just went ahead and ordered a hole new passenger axle. Axle was pricey but it came with all the seals.
The galvanized pipe seal-tool worked great. I did turn the face flat on a lathe. but not necessary just spin it around as you hit it.
So, why does the dealer charges over 3hrs $$$ per side when I just did one side (tire off to tire on) in exactly one hour taking my time? (new hub,bearing assy, and axle)
I dont want to RANT about labor charges and the rising cost of parts, but I AM.!! Dang it!
Sorry for all the wind, I'm just amped that I did it and did it right(i think).
THANKS TO EVERY SINGLE PERSON THAT MADE THIS THREAD!! THIS SITE ROCKS.
I just finished the ball joint replacement on my 2000 4x4 Ex. WOW. It took me quite a while, prob about 10 hours, but a lot of time was wasted by not having the right tools the first time. This note is to help anyone doing ball joints on an Excursion, F-250 SD or F-350 SD.
1. the autozone pickle fork (loaner part no. 27020) is too small. It works for the tie rod ends, but is not wide enough for the ball joints. Get (2) of their 27021 Pitman Arm pickle forks, they are wide enough for the massive ball joints on an excursion/super duty.
2. Print out the directions that Racerguy put together on here. I spent plenty of time going back in the house to check torque values, etc.
3. The " oil seal" aka Axle/Knuckle seal installation tool is a must, but make sure the flange is square to the pipe. I have a lathe so I trued mine up, but they are just crappy chinese pipe fittings so mine were WAY out of square. I dont know what the consequenes would have been if I tried to drive them on with an out-of-square driver. See item 4.
4. The axle-knuckle "oil seal" seals are a 0.010 inch interference fit at ~2.5 inch diameter(!!!) A typical interference (press fit, shrink fit) is along the lines of 0.001-0.002 inch per inch of diameter. Basically this is a humongous interference fit. This also means unless you have a 5 lb hammer and can swing it like Paul Bunyan, you need a bigger hammer. I never saw this mentioned in any of the write ups. I tried for a LONG time to fit these on using a regular hammer, tried grinding the lip to lead it in, and only after I measured it (I thought I might have the wrong part?) I realized I needed a REALLY BFH. I whaled on it about 8-10 times with a 5 pound sledge to get them seated. That was WAY more than I was expecting. I felt like I was driving railroad spikes.
5. The typical ball joint press they have as a loner at autozone or advanced auto is damn near too small. Expect to make up some spacers and etc to get the job done. If you can beg/borrow a kit made for a heavy truck, that would work 100x better. I was extremely worried I was about to destroy the loaner press I got from advanced auto... and I was probably close.
6. After breaking a 33mm socket (thanks autozone chinese crap tools) I realized that a pipe wrench works great for removing stubborn ball joint locknuts (upper and lower). Pipe wrench highly reccomended. Stick a 6 foot lever pipe on the handle and those stubborn nuts crack like glass. Then use the crappy socket for installing the new ones, apparently they can handle 150 ft-lb. Barely.
All said and done, I would do it again since I saved about $800 in labor and it only cost me a weekend. I could probably do it in half the time next time. Here's to another 95k!
After the new ball joints and an alignment, my party bus drives like new. It is amazing how much difference it makes. My old ball joints had .050 play on the driver lower and 0.125 play on the passenger lower. The uppers were fine.
Can you tell me where you got the vacuum line nipples? My Ford dealer doesn't know what I'm talking about.Thanks
I took out the old nipple and compared to the selection that they had at the Napa auto parts. They had a big selection of brass nipples there for vacume lines.
5. The typical ball joint press they have as a loner at autozone or advanced auto is damn near too small. Expect to make up some spacers and etc to get the job done.
The last time I did balljoints, my local Advanced Auto now had a larger, expanded Balljoint Press Kit for loan --- which included the proper SuperDuty cups/spacers.
I guess it depends on the individual Advanced Auto.
I feel kinda bad borrowing tools like that from them since I buy my parts at NAPA. So I buy my fluids, filters, supplies from them.
what a great write up. i am reaplacing my inner axle seals, cause there leaking and was wondering if ill need any special tools to put them back in with or do they just get taped in?
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Seal Driver Not Needed, How To Install Vacuum Seal Without Seal Driver Super Duty
