Got the other side out fine just by using the puller I made. It's got to be easier than pounding it out. The metal flanged dished a little on this one too, but I think it could still be reused if necessary.
My knuckles came off easy enough. In fact I don't think the nuts were tightened to spec at all. The stud of one of the bottom one's started turning on me with the nut half unscrewed. Had to use my bearing puller to press it back tight enough to get the nut off.
Some stout parts here. And heavy!
Curiously, the axle and spider gears are not machined? Die cast and probably forged too.
Anyone know where I can find some hub assembly for a '06 for a decent price. I have checked around and shops are looking for 350+ for them and on top of that that I don't think they are the correct ones.
Also what production date did Ford start changing the hub assembly on the 350?
DJR96, I think your puller is a cool idea, kudos on that. However, I was able to pop my axles right out using a couple of prybars, stuck into the axle tube end and seated under the flare for the seal surface just behind the u-joints. Do you think this would have worked in your case?
Hi Kel. I see you have an '02 model, which would have same setup as RacerGuy's guide and photo's. The later ones like mine have a bigger knuckle seal, it's about 5.5" diameter. Also, the axle tube seal doesn't have a metal backing to get a decent grip to lever against. It really did take quite a bit of force to move them. The bar I used for my puller bent slightly.
If you choose to pound them out, the outer part of the metal flange might pop off if you lever it out, then you could punch directly on the edge of the seal which should be more effective, although this would destroy it and risk scoring the knuckle bore. But I think the puller is by far the easiest and safest option.
It would be good to get some other peoples experience with these later ones. But I guess most are still under warranty so most are still done by the dealers.
Hi Kel. I see you have an '02 model, which would have same setup as RacerGuy's guide and photo's. The later ones like mine have a bigger knuckle seal, it's about 5.5" diameter.
Regarding the spider and side gears, I wonder if they are powdered metal? Not sure if they could be made strong enough with that process, just wondering.
Regarding the spider and side gears, I wonder if they are powdered metal? Not sure if they could be made strong enough with that process, just wondering.
I really don't know. The molding or forging die must be very well finished to provide the finished surface quality required. I'm curious too. Hope someone here can provide an answer.
After reading through this twice, How come most of the pictures in the list of how this job is done wont come up? Its like its just parts stores or adds or something, some of the pics come up but by far not all.
This post has changed my mind as far as taking my truk to a shop to have this done. I drive an 04 F350 6.0 crew cab SRW 4X4 75,000.
Im really trying to siffer out what all besides ball joints I need to buy. Axle seals, knuckle seals BOTH cant figure it out. Dont really wanna make any more trips to the parts store ifin I dont havta.
Thanks for the excellent directions. I had started to take it apart but got stuck on trying to remove the axle shafts. Just hadn't pried hard enough, didn't want to break something. I had looked for instructions last week but this site didn't come up on the search engine then. Thank goodness it did this weekend.
Anybody know the Ford part numbers for the hub o-rings,axle seals,dust seals and any other parts I might need to service the spindle needle bearings.My truck is a '04 f250. Thanks in advance if anybody knows.
I bought this kit (click on link). Have yet to do the job (or have someone else do it).
Just wanted to add another one to the list. I followed the instructions on this post and replaced all 4 ball joints the hub seals and all the o-rings. Also put new brake pads on while I had it apart. I used Napa ball joints. All other parts came from ford. Also replace the nipple for the vacume line for the ESOF, the others were rusted real bad. Total cost for parts 500.00. Took out and it drives great. Thanks for the great instructions.
Question- has anyone replaced the U-joint in the axle shaft while doing this? I bought a new U-joint from Napa, but the one in there seems to be fine (it also looks like a PITA to remove since you can't drive the caps straight through). I do NOT want to have to pull it apart again to change the U-joint later though. Right now I'm stuck at getting the knuckle off- 166K on the original ball joints equals a stubborn to remove lower ball joint.
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Chase
1999 F250 PSD CC SB 4x4 - his
2000 Explorer XLT 4x4 - hers
PAA Member #2 God speed Markadeck, you will be missed ThumperTalk / All Things Moto! / SnoWest / SAWS / BRC
Question- has anyone replaced the U-joint in the axle shaft while doing this? I bought a new U-joint from Napa, but the one in there seems to be fine (it also looks like a PITA to remove since you can't drive the caps straight through). I do NOT want to have to pull it apart again to change the U-joint later though. Right now I'm stuck at getting the knuckle off- 166K on the original ball joints equals a stubborn to remove lower ball joint.
Since I knew I was not going to use the old ball joints I just used a big hammer on them alternating the blows between the top and lower ball joints. The just popped right out.
I replaced my U-joints when I did this job. Just remove the retaining rings from the back side of the Joints. Place on vise pad and start hitting with a hammer on the back side of the yoke. Can be stubborn, FYI.
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Matt
1999.5 F350 CC
MODS: DP Tuner, BTS Trans, ITP Regulated Return, Ceramic Up Pipes, ITP Intank/HPX, aFe Stg II, 5" Cannon Exhaust, and some other stuff.
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