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  #151 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2008, 04:54 PM
CarlF250 CarlF250 is offline
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Thanks twags6. I finished it up today. What a pain in the butt! You're right that if the splines aren't lined up the axle shaft won't slide in all the way. I looked into the axle tube with a flashlight and there is white, cone shaped plastic (I think) part that forces the axle shaft into the center of the tube so it can line up with the carrier.

Everything went pretty well. I was able to do the drivers side in about half the time it took me to do the passenger side. Just because I sort of new what I was doing and I knew what to expect. I noticed that the thrust washers on the drivers side were installed in the wrong order probably when Sears attempted to replace the balljoints a while back. Would this affect the operation of the hub?

The only problem that I had was that one of the lower balljoints didn't have threads for the grease zerk so I had to tap a few threads into it.

Oh yeah, one more question. How would you get the wheel bearings out if they needed to be replaced? Would you press them out from the back? And press new ones in?
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  #152 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2008, 05:41 PM
Mikey_23_ny1 Mikey_23_ny1 is offline
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I had a machine shop press in those ball joints and install those nuckcle seals... I think they put the seals on backwards... That silver colered ring thats visable on the seal, should it be facing in or out... mine is facing inward....
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  #153 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2008, 08:24 PM
budfans budfans is offline
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just changed my ball joints today and when i had it apart i did the tierods while i was there 5 hours later what a difference !!! thanks for the help it made it alot easyer knowing what i was in for and a good parts store to dealiver my tierods so quick !
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Old 03-22-2008, 11:01 PM
ironmine ironmine is online now
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Quote:
Oh yeah, one more question. How would you get the wheel bearings out if they needed to be replaced? Would you press them out from the back? And press new ones in?
They don't come out. The brg/hub is an assembly, and has to be replaced as a unit.

Quote:
I had a machine shop press in those ball joints and install those nuckcle seals... I think they put the seals on backwards... That silver colered ring thats visable on the seal, should it be facing in or out... mine is facing inward....
From RacerGuy's guide ....
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Old 03-23-2008, 02:19 AM
CarlF250 CarlF250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironmine
They don't come out. The brg/hub is an assembly, and has to be replaced as a unit.
So that bearing/hub assembly only costs $10? If not, then what is this part?

Wheel Bearing:
Ford # C6tZ-3123-A $9.30 each
NAPA # B2110 $6.42 each
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Old 03-23-2008, 02:55 AM
ironmine ironmine is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlF250
So that bearing/hub assembly only costs $10? If not, then what is this part?

Wheel Bearing:
Ford # C6tZ-3123-A $9.30 each
NAPA # B2110 $6.42 each
The *needle* bearing that sits in the bearing/hub assy. This needle bearing is where the axle end sits, and is removable. You should have either re-packed it or replaced it when you removed the bearing/hub assy. From RacerGuy's guide ....

The wheel bearing/hub assy costs more than $200 aftermarket, and the large bearing in it that serves as the wheel bearing, is not servicable.
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Old 03-23-2008, 07:53 AM
CarlF250 CarlF250 is offline
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Ok, thanks for the clarification. How do you know if your wheel bearing hub assembly is bad? Would it possibly make a "wa-wa-wa-wa-wa" sound when you're driving?

That's the sound that I'm hearing, but I'm having a hard time pinpointing where it's coming from. It might be a tire issue.
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Old 03-23-2008, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by CarlF250
Ok, thanks for the clarification. How do you know if your wheel bearing hub assembly is bad? Would it possibly make a "wa-wa-wa-wa-wa" sound when you're driving?
Don't know about wa wa, lol, but it would make a rotational, metallic, scraping noise ...... sort of.

Also, if you jack up the front/corner of the truck, grap the tire and muscle it around... you'll often feel the looseness in a failing brg/hub.

Good luck.
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Old 03-23-2008, 12:06 PM
CarlF250 CarlF250 is offline
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Ok thanks a lot!
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Old 04-06-2008, 08:10 AM
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OK, I've just read right through. Big thanks to Racerguy, good guide.

I've got an '06 4WD Superduty front axle that's only done 10k miles but I'm gutting it to do some welding work on the housing. Still it's all the same procedure. Being the later model, it has that mongrel cir-clip deep in the hub. What a bitch that is! I must recommend getting a good pair of big cir-clip pliers for this sucker.
I'm up to removing the axle shaft and knuckle seal. From reading this I take it I'm going to have to destroy it to get it out. The seal can't be reused no matter what.

Does the replacement seal come with the metal flanges?
Or do I have to preserve these?

And while I'm ordering parts. What other parts am I going to need when re-installing the diff centres (I'm installing ARB air-lockers), and hubs front and rear. As I said, it's only done 10k miles so nothing "needs" replacing, just what has to be replaced as part of stripping down and re-assembling.

(Suggest you read my project thread in signature below)

Any advice and tips gladly appreciated.
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  #161 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2008, 11:37 AM
CarlF250 CarlF250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJR96 View Post
I'm up to removing the axle shaft and knuckle seal. From reading this I take it I'm going to have to destroy it to get it out. The seal can't be reused no matter what.

Does the replacement seal come with the metal flanges?
Or do I have to preserve these?
Yeah, it's on there pretty tight. I had to get mine off with a punch and a big hammer. It will most likely get damaged during removal. The new one has the metal flanges. The rubber is molded to the metal.
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  #162 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2008, 05:54 PM
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Thanks Carl. Really seems such a waste.
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  #163 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2008, 07:48 PM
CarlF250 CarlF250 is offline
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Wait a minute. I just re-read your original post. You said your truck only has 10,000 miles on it? I'm not sure if you can reuse the seal or not. Most of us have 30k or more on our trucks when we replaced the ball joints. I would assume that while you have everything apart it is probably best to change the seals.

If you are talking about the the small axle dust seal, yes you will probably need to replace it if you pry against it to get the axle shaft out. But I'm not sure about the large knuckle/oil seal. It wouldn't really get damaged just by removing the axle shaft. Maybe you can reuse it, but you might want to wait for someone else who has more experience to chime in.Sorry for the confusion.
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  #164 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2008, 08:26 AM
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OK. Seen as no one has posted any pictures of the '06 Superduty hubs yet, I've taken some to share here.



Here's the hub with the brake caliper, bracket and rotor already removed.



This is the auto hub. Just remove the three torx head screws with a T27 size tool, crack the seal with either a tap with a chisel or lever against a wheel stud with a pry bar. Then gently wiggle it out, don't force it.



This is the circlip that has to be removed......



Normal sized pliers won't do at all! You'll need the bigger ones, they're 320mm long and have 3mm tips. When you get them, grind the ends of the tips so that they are flat when they are about 25mm apart. This helps to get a better grip. I'd also suggest countersinking the backside of the circlip holes so the pliers grip even easier next time you have to remove them.



Even then, they'll open the circlip fine but it's still virtually impossible to pull the circlip out. So I loosened the four nuts on the hub studs. They are flanged so you can then hit it with an impact socket and crack the hub out a little. No need to damage any studs. I then knocked some wood behind the uni-joint and pushed the hub out of the knuckle a few mm and held it there with the chisels and then removed the wood. Also be careful not to damage the heat shield, it's sandwiched between the hub and knuckle.This gets the axle trying to pull out of the hub so when you open the circlip, it should help getting it out of it's groove. Much easier!



They hub should come out easy enough now.
There's a normal sealed ball bearing instead of a needle bearing. Should be much more reliable, and easy enough to replace by removing the other circlip.



With the hub out, the massive knuckle seal is revealed.



The inner side of it is completely protected by this metal shield. The workshop manual says to just pound it out with a drift....... But this would destroy it well and truly. And with all the rubber in the seal, it just seemed to bounce right back at you, doing nothing but denting the metal shield.



This is the pathetic axle tube seal. No protection whatsoever. I doubt it would keep water out at all.





So I made my own knuckle seal puller. Consists of a peice of 3" angle, 12" long, with a 2.5" hole in the centre, 0.5" holes an inch from the ends. And a flat bar 1.5" wide by 3/8" thick, 12" long, same holes at the ends. And two bits of threaded rod to pull them together. Set one rod under the steering arm, not over as in the photo.
This put some real force on it and pulled it out a treat.



I'm yet to get the seal off the axle shaft, but it looks like I'll need to pull it using a bearing separator under the metal flange. I'll update this when I get to it.



Turns out the metal shield was two pieces, and the inner part has dished from pushing the knuckle seal out. I don't think it will affect the function of the seal, but it won't protect as well and I'll try to flatten it out again before re-installing. I think the seal itself is ok and could be reused, but I'll still replace it. [I'll try to pull the other side out without punching on it first and hopefully it won't dish so much. Let you know tomorrow....]


I should add, I won't be re-assembling this for quite some time, but I will update this when I can.
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  #165 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2008, 01:06 PM
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Reps to Dave for a nice writeup!
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