I am building a Pony stock dirt track car and want to use the 2.0 since I can turn the little sucker 10,000RPM and keep it together.I need to know what stock 2 barrel intakes have larger ports?Truck,car,2.0,2.3.All the rules state is a stock 2 barrel intake manifold.Doesn't say it has to be stock to the engine.Just had to come on a ford 4 banger.I could hog it out but I would have to take a 50lb penalty(thats alot on a 2000lb car).Also,who makes the best cam for the RPM range I am looking at?This is my first time into round track.I have belonged to a team since last year working on a bomber car(Camero,Yuck,bow tie) but figured I would get myself something small and cheap to learn the ropes in.I am totally lost when it comes to gassers especially 4 bangers.Give me a diesel and I am fine!
Stock type intake
any flat top pistons
.500 max lift cam with .025 lash at valves
500CFM 2 barrel
any Non aftermarket head(SOHC only)
any steel valves of stock diameter
any competition valve jobs as long as grinds are concentric with guide
.750 hand blend is ok.
White Lightning-1994 F350 CC Dually,Turbo
Mongo-2004 F550 6.0L 6 speed,4x4,flatbed
Cousteau-2006 Ford Ranger STX.Standard cab,5 speed,3.slow
1. the 2.0 and the 2.3 are not the same engine. BUT the 2.3 and the 2.5 are (more or less) the same. Also don't be confused by the 2 different 2.0s (do a search in this forum for more info).
2. There is no reason to run a 2.0 unless there is a cc limit or solid's can't be run on a 2.3. Don't know with your rules.
3. All the parts you want can be found at:
b. Race Engineering
c. Racer Walsh
note: don't have enough post to put links in yet.
4. We had good luck with Schneider Cams.
Make sure that you give them all the info you can about your engine (long rod or short, compression ect.)
5. Make sure you run good rods, pistons, rings, high volume oil pump, windage tray, studs (top & bottom) and balance the engine good. The better the parts, the better your chances the bottom end will stay together.
6. If you can't port the head, don't worry about turning much over 8k. Both the d-port and O-port head stop flowing any better at this point. A D-Port will flow better than a O-port if ported correctly but with solid lifter they are basically equal up to that point.
7. A good 8,000 rpm engine (that will stay together) will be in the 2500-3000 dollar range, just for parts and machine work.
8. and don't forget to check the 4m (dot) net site and SEARCH the post and archives, this will most likely answer all your questions.
Those rules are very open but if your using a Mustang, 2000# is really light and depending on the rules might be hard to reach. We had full bodied cars with stock floor pan (fr to rr) and came in about 2400#, 2200# (depending on rule) can be done. Biggest thing to remember is ounces equal pounds.
> Must be located in same location as stock engine for model of car
Make/modify the engine/trans mounts to be solid.
> Any flat top pistons
Use good pistons, I like Wiesco. Race engineering has some extra light weight pistons. Also we had good luck with the Total Seal rings too, they seal just like the name says.
> Any steel rods
Run the longest aftermarket rod you can. 5.7 is standard but 6.0 are starting to show up more. The pistons on longer rods are lighter too. Rule of thumb is the shorter the track the shorter the rod, but my theory is if you can get more power from long rods run them, the cam will need to be a special grind.
> Crank must have stock stroke
Doesn't say you can't lighten it, a knife edge crank will get you off the corner very fast. Don't forget that an aluminum flywheel will get rid of more rotating mass. Rotating mass is the enemy and do what you can to get rid of it. Balance everything together too.
> Any non Aftermarket heads
Doesn't say anything about not porting it. A D-port is the best canidate with a esslinger port job.
Best to talk to Esslinger but the head can also be milled down about .150, this should give a little pop. I think our last engine had .010 off the block and .160 off the head.
> any steel valve of stock diameter
I've heard that 305 HO (Yes Chevy) valve will fit into the head, this would give you a BIG vavle head with stock valves. It does say ANY stock steel vavle. CHECK BEFORE DOING THIS.
> stock type intake manifolds
This is talking about a FI intake manifold and removing the center webbing. I've talked with people that say it WILL add HP but I've never run one. If you don't remove the webbing don't run it.
> .500 max lift cam measured with .025 lash at valve
This tells me that solid lifter or a roller cams are legal. A roller cam will give less resistance but not sure money to power is worth it at this lift.
Couple other things to remember:
1. get a racing timing belt tentioner, THIS IS A MUST.
2. underdrive pulley on the crank is a must to slow down the water pump.
3. an Honda alternator (very small) on the smog pump bracket (very low) will also keep the battery charged and life much easier. People will tell you is sucks power, but it also keeps a full charge on the battery, makes life much easier and actually might give you more power with a fully charged ignition system.
Ummh, I think that FoMoCo made a 2.0 that was the same as the 2.3 Lima... in 1985(?) they used EFI in Calif, and a carb'd fuel systems elsewhere, and some were 2.0 liters. Same block, but the bore was smaller. THe 2.5 has a longer stroke than the 2.3, but the same bore.
There was a 2.0 ohc used in Pintos and Capris in 1971-197? made in Germany and imprted. Similar to the 2.3, which came out in 1974 models, but no parts interchange.
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
Yea, I thought about that and did make that first statement confusing.
We looked at a 2.0 (lima?) block one time and found nothing of use for racing. When someone starts talking 10,000 RPM the first engine that comes to mind is the early 2.0 (Pinto) engines. 2.0 (Pinto) had the solid lifters and is one reason they are so popular for racing in "stock" classes, they aren't RPM limited like the hyd 2.3 family head is.
also don't forget about a tfi dist (good for 10,000 rpm)
adjustable cam gear 1.9 escotr flywheel (19pnds and under) use a pinto carb (earl parker carburation) or a 350 holley dont use a 500 to much gas use some after market pully (power pully's)
on the mustang chasis find a right side lower a-arm (measure them before you buy) some was a inch longer ...
also some mustangs had "roller cams"
I ran pinto for 2 years (BONE STOCK) and could beaqt 2.5 chevy that was built
there was 2 differnt 2.0 the first early pinto comet ect. was solid lift head and could be ran 10,000 rpm the second was the ranger 2.0 in either case just use the 2.3 motor MUCH easier to find parts since they was made for 20 plus years..
__________________ Can't list my Ford's only allowed 300 letters.... to many to list
There is an excellent book by David Vizard on modifying the Pinto 2.0 motor.A lot of the information in the book can be applied to other motors as well.I replaced the 2.0 in my 87 Ranger with a 2.3 and the ports in the 2.3 are larger than the 2.0 motor,so if you are using a 2.0 Lima then it might be beneficial to use the 2.3 head and intake.
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