hello i have a 1997 ford f 150 with a 4.2 ltr v6 the check engine light came on so i took it to autozone and had the code pulled. They told me that the o2 sensor bank2 sensor 1 which is before the converter had a slow response so i checked the wiring and bought the o2 sensor. Theytold me bank 2 is the passenger side but well i changed the1st sensor on the passenger side and reset the code and drove the truck about 130 miles . and the light came back on. After reading a few posts. I think they told me wrong is the drivers side bank 2 or is the passenger side bank 2 I have a feeling if I continue to listen to autozone that im going to end up replacing all 4 at 60 bucks each any help with this problem would be greatly apreciated thanks in advance
I'm always getting my banks mixed up but I do believe bank 2 is the drivers side. I do no that sensor 1 is the one before the cat. Probably wouldn't hurt to get another new one as the one you replaced probably wasn't far behind the bad one.
I Had The Same Trouble Not To Long Ago. I Am Not A Mechanic But I Do Know By Spraying Wd40 On The Vacuum Lines When It Smoothes Out Thats Where The Leak Is. Mine Was That Hose At The End Of The Pcv That Goes Up Into The Carb. Where It Rests On Top Of The Engine The Heat Put A Small Hole In It. Four Bucks End Of Story. Hope It Helps, It Drove Me Nuts For Awhile.
I was just about to get on here and make the same kind of post.
I have a 2001 F-150 with a 5.4. I have 101,000 miles on it. I got the check engine light for both O2 sensors. Instead of playing the "replace the borken one" game I went ahead and dropped the coin on ALL 4 SENSORS, then reset the computer. I also replaced the fuel filter as well. Since I replaced them (3 days ago), I have done 2 long road trips using premium Techron fuel, still get the check engine light.
Can someone give me an idea why I would get the O2 sensor code 1 hour after I just put brand new sensors in??? I used OEM sensors from Ford, they ran about $400, so you can imagine why I would be a little mad. Install wasn't very fun either!!
Usually O2 codes are a symptom of another problem. If there is a vacuum leak, dirty MAF sensor etc you can get codes for the O2s. Basically when you get an O2 code it means that the O2 is seeing a reading outside of what it thinks it should see, either too much or too little O2 in the exhaust.
the code i was getting said slow response from o2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1 they told me it was the first sensor on the passenger side i replaced it and still the light came back on then i learned with your help that bank 2 is the drivers side i changed it and so far the light is staying off thanks a lot
I have an O2 sensor slow response also. Bank 1 Sensor 1 which means passenger side before the Cat; right? Now Racerguy; you say that O2 codes are symptoms of something else. My question is, does that hold for the "slow response" O2 code as well? If so I'll clean the MAF sensor and check the hoses first, otherwise I'll buy the O2 sensor.
Thanks in advance,
Lean or rich O2 codes are usually caused by something else...but not always.
A P0133 or P0153 slow response code is quite often caused by a bad O2.
If you have access to a scan tool that lets you watch live data you can compare both front O2s and see if they switch the same. The one that has slow response is usually quite easy to spot if you can compare them both.
I would still start with cleaning the MAF and checking for vacuum leaks. If those both check out ok then you're probably safe to replace the O2.
Bank 1 is the bank with cylinder #1....the passenger's side. Sensor 1 is the one closest to the engine.