I was just wondering what was involved in replacing the rear tank on my truck. It is something that can be done with little ease or will you run into labour intensive efforts requiring "special" tools. The shops here say about 2 hrs labour + cost of tank.(120cdn + 40/hr cdn = $220 cdn total)
Is it difficult to remove the old tank components, incld fuel pump, etc.
Does it in any way affect the operation/gas milage of the truck , only operating on the front tank. Will it create any vaccum problems, etc.
1995 F150 4X4 REG CAB, 300 IN LINE 6, 4.9 LITER, 164000KMS.
I've done the midship tank. It required a special tool ($4.95 or so) for the fuel line release and replacement clips once done and reconnecting. I've looked in the Haynes manual and it looks like about the same procedure. Just FYI there are some 38 gallon tanks available to replace this tank that would give you way more range as well. J.C. Whitney has them and is a forum sponsor. There are several methods to doing this, I did it from under the truck using a transmission jack and a 2x10. Some choose to remove the bed. If you're gonna replace the tank and all, I think I'd opt (?$ for your judgement) for the 38 gallon rear tank. I have my spare mounted in the bed anyway. I'll never crawl under the truck for a tire again, period.
You should only need the fuel line tool previously mentioned as far as special tools. It's just a bear to lift. I drained all I could out and still had 3-4 gallons in the tank. Add on that the dirt and rust, it's pretty messy but can be done my one person. I put a flat furniture dolly under mine to help roll it.
I replaced my rear tank, 2 months ago, if you have a reciever hitch it is a major pain and I would consider removing it if I had to do it again. The only special tool is the fuel line release tool. Other than that it was fairly straight-forward. If you live in the rust belt, some PB-blaster would be a great thing.
i just used a tiny screwdriver on the clips, worked fine. hardest part is the rust on everything. i live in buffalo, they like to cover every road with more salt then snow. had to grind off the old bolts. the ring holding the fuel pump in was disintegrated too. took me 4 hours because of all the rust.
Fuel line tool, about 5 bucks. A good floor jack and 4 5/8 bolts. Lower the tank down, pull the pump/sender and the vacuum line. Done. While you have it down you should consider replacing the pump and sender.
I have to replace my fuel pump on rear tank sometime, should I drop the tank or should I take the bed off? Can I take the bed off by my self? I really don't have mussles around here. In salt belt in Indianapolis. if that makes any difference.
I changed mine,F250,with hitch in place.Remove filler hose ,Sending unit wires and lines.CAUTION-be sure to use a brass punch[no sparks] if you do not have a spanner wrench for fuel pump/sending unit.Not a bad job at all,just dirty.Observe all safety precautions-safety goggles/glasses and such.
I guess I'll start lubing the strap studs, when I get this truck out of muddy area that is. Also this tank is full, any easy way to drain the tank? suck fuel out of fuel line? or just take off filler neck and pump out from the tank? Thanks,
You may want to crawl under and use a hand pressure washer to wash everything first. maybe a shop vac. Has the fuel pump been working ok on the rear tank, you may want to change the pump. I don't think you will every want to pull the tank out again. I had to cut the bolts off with a sawsall or something that won't cause sparks. You may want to get a few new bolts before you start. Tank should come with a gasket and locking ring for the pump.
i siphoned it out with a plastic siphon pump and some tubing, lost a piece of tubing in the fill neck, but got it back when i dropped the tank. i just drove it the way it was for a while, then when the front tank was empty i transferred the fuel to the front. (and my snowmobile, lawnmower, weed whacker and whatever other containers i could find)