Front I beam Flip???
#46
Hey fellas,
Whats up tonite? I am neck deep in this stuff so here goes nothing. I have seen
these trucks lifted, I have never driven one. I have driven many lifted vehicles
in my time though. This is the sticky part. The fella's on this site are really good thinkers. But think about this, if you try and balance something that is bent upward,
you will find that it tends to lean naturally. By this i mean we need to keep it perpendicular to the surface(road) to maintain a stable track down the road. It was
figured out long ago and that is the reason all suspenions have the spindle above the
center of the axle pivot point. This give you the driver the extra tracking ability to
properly maintain the control of the vehicle. When we balance the weight above the axle, we exagerate the effects of suttle bumps and movements in the steering geometry. Try it with a trailer jack handle. Position the handle at its highest point in the arc. When it is at the zenith of its rotation, attempt to balance your weight upon the handle. Maintain a grip on a stable object because i do not want you to get hurt.
You will soon see the dynamics of weight being suspended versus it being balanced.
It is for this reason that the "s" in that I-Beam was directed upward in the first place. Do the next step of the experiment with the same trailer jack handle. Let the handle reach its lowest point and put your foot on it. You will notice the inherit stability of this maneuver. The forse itself tends to keep the object straight down.
Now when i read about the drop spindle adding to this already stressed design, i must
say it is not for the road. The only vehicle i know of that has a design such as this is a ford/furgeson tractor. They get squirrley at 20 mph and this rig would to. I know guys drive them but again i think its more for show than go. Taking nothing away from
the guys doing it, I just think the original design is better. I would do the flip. I would not add the drop spindles. Happy trail riding. Let ol Henry do the heavy lifting, and let me add the fact that i personally would feel terrible if upon my advise(or any one elses) some poor fool finds his way to an early grave in a mangled ford. Leave this up to Fordman who has a swamp truck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!He has the experience to handle this animal and i do not think the average joe can do it. Do you agree with me fordman? Especially about the drop spindles.
Whats up tonite? I am neck deep in this stuff so here goes nothing. I have seen
these trucks lifted, I have never driven one. I have driven many lifted vehicles
in my time though. This is the sticky part. The fella's on this site are really good thinkers. But think about this, if you try and balance something that is bent upward,
you will find that it tends to lean naturally. By this i mean we need to keep it perpendicular to the surface(road) to maintain a stable track down the road. It was
figured out long ago and that is the reason all suspenions have the spindle above the
center of the axle pivot point. This give you the driver the extra tracking ability to
properly maintain the control of the vehicle. When we balance the weight above the axle, we exagerate the effects of suttle bumps and movements in the steering geometry. Try it with a trailer jack handle. Position the handle at its highest point in the arc. When it is at the zenith of its rotation, attempt to balance your weight upon the handle. Maintain a grip on a stable object because i do not want you to get hurt.
You will soon see the dynamics of weight being suspended versus it being balanced.
It is for this reason that the "s" in that I-Beam was directed upward in the first place. Do the next step of the experiment with the same trailer jack handle. Let the handle reach its lowest point and put your foot on it. You will notice the inherit stability of this maneuver. The forse itself tends to keep the object straight down.
Now when i read about the drop spindle adding to this already stressed design, i must
say it is not for the road. The only vehicle i know of that has a design such as this is a ford/furgeson tractor. They get squirrley at 20 mph and this rig would to. I know guys drive them but again i think its more for show than go. Taking nothing away from
the guys doing it, I just think the original design is better. I would do the flip. I would not add the drop spindles. Happy trail riding. Let ol Henry do the heavy lifting, and let me add the fact that i personally would feel terrible if upon my advise(or any one elses) some poor fool finds his way to an early grave in a mangled ford. Leave this up to Fordman who has a swamp truck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!He has the experience to handle this animal and i do not think the average joe can do it. Do you agree with me fordman? Especially about the drop spindles.
#47
fordman100
wuz up dutch. well as expected it was a another killer truck pulls this year. i guess the other guys did'nt go to www.stroid.com and look at the 69 front flip and i think if they would post thier adresses i took pics of my 78/ford and i even pulled the tires so they could see that could have put i-beams in the same brackets . only thing is i coped out 2+2 square tubing it goes around the original
brackets perfect.i done that because i used the 3/4 ton coil springs and it lifts it alot higher than stock fliiped.then i used 3+6 square tubing and lowered the radius arms. i then i used 3/16 plate from the frame back to the tubing. this way it rolls the king -pins back up straighter. by lowering the radius arms.
fellas i even took pics of my freinds 77/1/2 ton truck i flipped a few years back.and it's all stock no lowered radius arms no blocks under the springs every thing is all original .i don't know but seems to me some of you don't want to believe it can be done . i do not have the set up to post pics on the net or i would have already done for everyone.if you say you don't want to post your home address i'll understand so i'll ask MY BETTER HALF IF I CAN POST MY PHONE #. THEN I WILL SEND YOU THE PICS FREE OF CHARGE.I'M SURE YOU'LL BE SATISFIED. like i said if i could post them i would be glad to have done it.
brackets perfect.i done that because i used the 3/4 ton coil springs and it lifts it alot higher than stock fliiped.then i used 3+6 square tubing and lowered the radius arms. i then i used 3/16 plate from the frame back to the tubing. this way it rolls the king -pins back up straighter. by lowering the radius arms.
fellas i even took pics of my freinds 77/1/2 ton truck i flipped a few years back.and it's all stock no lowered radius arms no blocks under the springs every thing is all original .i don't know but seems to me some of you don't want to believe it can be done . i do not have the set up to post pics on the net or i would have already done for everyone.if you say you don't want to post your home address i'll understand so i'll ask MY BETTER HALF IF I CAN POST MY PHONE #. THEN I WILL SEND YOU THE PICS FREE OF CHARGE.I'M SURE YOU'LL BE SATISFIED. like i said if i could post them i would be glad to have done it.
#48
fordman,
It would be nice if you knew someone that either had a digital camera and could snap some pics and then upload them to a gallery you created.
Or, find someone with a scanner that could scan your pics onto a disc, then you could upload them. Dare I say Kinkos.
You will be hard pressed to get anyone whether here or any where else to give out phone numbers and such just to get pics delivered.
Food for thought.
Robert P.
It would be nice if you knew someone that either had a digital camera and could snap some pics and then upload them to a gallery you created.
Or, find someone with a scanner that could scan your pics onto a disc, then you could upload them. Dare I say Kinkos.
You will be hard pressed to get anyone whether here or any where else to give out phone numbers and such just to get pics delivered.
Food for thought.
Robert P.
#49
fordman100
what up dutch302? well iguess the other fellas did'nt go to www.striod.com and check out the 69/blue flipped ford. i did'nt see no response i'm starting to think they really think it can't be done . fellas post your mailing address and if you don't to i'll understand i took the tires off my 78/ford with the 77/3/4 ton flipped front and took pics to mail out .like i said i don't have the means to post pics on the net or i would have already don't for everyone.i'll be glad to send the pics to you at my cost. THATS BETTER THAN YOUR PHONE # then you will have the best proof in your hands.when i send them out i'll put my phone # with them.
you will see that i coped a piece of 2+2 square tubing out to fit around the original i-beam brackets. i then put a 2'' diameter round stock back where the i-beams bolt upto keep it from collapsing. i think it was 1''3/4 long . what ever the measurement is where the i-beam bolts to the bracket 5/8 hole same as whats there so it don't collaps when i bolted the tubing up. the reason i'm putting the tubing there is because i used three 3/4 ton springs it lifts the truck higher than stock. then right above that you'll have room to put 2 more well i used 7/16 harden bolts.and the higher you lift the longer tubing you use then just cope out the bottom and measure in 1''7/8 from the tire side of the tubing thats same distance the hole is on the original bracket. check and make sure.then i put a level on the outside of the tire and jack the i-beam into position and you will be close enough that your alignment man can do the rest..i also used a piece of 3+6 square tubing to lowering the radius arms. BUT REMEBER YOU WILL NOT DO ANY OF THIS FLIPPING YOUR I-BEAMS STOCK. and i'll be sending some pics of my freinds truck 1/2 ton flipped stock to show you the i-beams do go in the same brakets.and pics of other flipped fords .this is the only way i can prove to ya it can be done so easy.i'll check in later.
you will see that i coped a piece of 2+2 square tubing out to fit around the original i-beam brackets. i then put a 2'' diameter round stock back where the i-beams bolt upto keep it from collapsing. i think it was 1''3/4 long . what ever the measurement is where the i-beam bolts to the bracket 5/8 hole same as whats there so it don't collaps when i bolted the tubing up. the reason i'm putting the tubing there is because i used three 3/4 ton springs it lifts the truck higher than stock. then right above that you'll have room to put 2 more well i used 7/16 harden bolts.and the higher you lift the longer tubing you use then just cope out the bottom and measure in 1''7/8 from the tire side of the tubing thats same distance the hole is on the original bracket. check and make sure.then i put a level on the outside of the tire and jack the i-beam into position and you will be close enough that your alignment man can do the rest..i also used a piece of 3+6 square tubing to lowering the radius arms. BUT REMEBER YOU WILL NOT DO ANY OF THIS FLIPPING YOUR I-BEAMS STOCK. and i'll be sending some pics of my freinds truck 1/2 ton flipped stock to show you the i-beams do go in the same brakets.and pics of other flipped fords .this is the only way i can prove to ya it can be done so easy.i'll check in later.
#52
#53
well as the post moves on it seems that the flip is a doable thing. maybe the lift spindles are a bad idea from what dutch says, but I still feel this preferrable. The flip would be cheaper though. All I did to find the lift spindles was a google search on ford lift spindles, and I must have been more tired than I am now because I saw what I wanted to see. here's the link to what I found
http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/s...ry-ford_05.htm
it's a lift, but dosen't specify as to whether it's 2 or 4 wheel. poke around on this site and you might find something though. The site seems pretty robust.
http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/s...ry-ford_05.htm
it's a lift, but dosen't specify as to whether it's 2 or 4 wheel. poke around on this site and you might find something though. The site seems pretty robust.
#55
I haven't written back in awhile. I've been taking all this is. There is a guy in town that works for a local alignment shop that has it done(the flip) on his truck. I am going to be talking with him more this week and he will explain how everything works in detail as well as have an example for me. IE his truck. my emails flaminford at yahoo dotcom(I assume you all know the correct formatting of that) if any one would like to email those pics of the flip
I'll be watching for the pics. Thanks
I'll be watching for the pics. Thanks
#57
So what did you do there? From what I can see you make a block for under the springs and a plate to drop the apposing side of the I-beam, and something with the radius arm. Do you have a list of materials, measurements and intructions? I would liek to give that a try on one of my trucks. I am going to be doing the flip on another one.
#58
The 78 has 3" in frount. I took 3x3 angle cut the two sides down to fit around the pease of frame that hangs down. Then welded them togather to make a channel and then cut it to 5" for each side, drilled the holes and left 3" between the holes. I made two 3" blocks to go between the springs and rad. arm. I cut the rad. arm and took a 2x1/4 strap and offset it 3" and made gussets. After resetting the toe in 2 years the tires still wear flat. I went to the john deere dealer to get the grade 8 bolts, but I forgot how long they were. I did get 4 5/8x4 1/2 to go through the end of the Ibeam.
#59
#60