Lift kit quality
#1
#3
This kit has everything except swaybar drop braket, which is another $36.
The kit includes the Following:
- Front coil springs
- I-Beam drop brackets
- Radius Arm drop brackets
- Pitman Arm
- Blocks and U-bolts
- 4 Heckethorn Hydro 8000 shocks and boots
- Front and rear brake lines
That should be everything, right? I realize that something with re-arced leafs for the back is preferred, but that would be outside my budget right now.
Trevor
The kit includes the Following:
- Front coil springs
- I-Beam drop brackets
- Radius Arm drop brackets
- Pitman Arm
- Blocks and U-bolts
- 4 Heckethorn Hydro 8000 shocks and boots
- Front and rear brake lines
That should be everything, right? I realize that something with re-arced leafs for the back is preferred, but that would be outside my budget right now.
Trevor
Last edited by t_dickie; 02-22-2005 at 06:44 PM.
#5
Its online from a company in New England, http://www.tfes-performance.com/ but I found it first on ebay.
Trevor
Trevor
Last edited by t_dickie; 02-22-2005 at 07:36 PM.
#6
#7
I have the rough contry 4" lift on my F150. I think there are better quality lifts available, but you can't beat the rough country price. I seem to remember reading somewhere the drop brackets for the axle arms dont fit the contours of the front crossmember properly and cause the bracket and/or crossmember to crack. Don't quote me on that though. I'm checking mine on a regular basis.
I will say the shocks suck for any kind of street/highway driving. I just spent $300 to replace them with Bilsteins.
The kit was easy to put on, only a few holes to drill. I did mine in about 8hrs, that was with a few beer breaks, after the trip to the store to get a 2nd floor jack. I got my kit off ebay and the guy threw in the steering stabilizer for free( 1 shock and a few brackets...), the brake lines were not included, but the stock one work fine.
Later
Brian
I will say the shocks suck for any kind of street/highway driving. I just spent $300 to replace them with Bilsteins.
The kit was easy to put on, only a few holes to drill. I did mine in about 8hrs, that was with a few beer breaks, after the trip to the store to get a 2nd floor jack. I got my kit off ebay and the guy threw in the steering stabilizer for free( 1 shock and a few brackets...), the brake lines were not included, but the stock one work fine.
Later
Brian
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#8
LOL, from the sounds of it, I've been talking to same guy on ebay He was quite helpful answering my questions (whether a 4" lift on a 4x2 92-96 would level the truck out, instead of just lift both front and rear 4", where the truck would still have the rear sitting up higher than the front.)
I have a slight "front suspension sag" issue i think, so maybe this would be an opportunity to lift her up too
Ebay member : topguncustomz
I have a slight "front suspension sag" issue i think, so maybe this would be an opportunity to lift her up too
Ebay member : topguncustomz
#9
#14
This question seems to come up fairly frequently because of price. We did a rough country 4" lift on my friends 95 F150, and he is really happy. It rides better than it did when stock, and saved him a bundle. It looked to be as well engineered as any kit, just not as expensive. He priced them all, and then went with rough country. It was a pretty easy install, and took us about 8 hours too, using all hand tools. I have put on several different kits on different trucks, and rough country looks as well made as any.
#15
I did some more thinking about the rumors about the Rough Country lifts causing crossmember cracking. So I looked at the brackets thinking maybe I could just replace the brackets with skyjacker or some higher quality brand. From what I found, the brackets look the same. However, I downloaded the instructions for the skyjacker lift kit and they specifically say:
"NOTE: This bracket MUST be welded to the frame so that the bracket becomes part of the frame to eliminate frame cracking."
and
"WELD BRACKET TO KEEP FRAME FROM CRACKING!"
It only says to weld the bracket that the right axle arm pivots on. So I'm debating going to a welder and having the bracket welded on. If I get time I might contact Rough Country to get their input on this.
later
Brian
"NOTE: This bracket MUST be welded to the frame so that the bracket becomes part of the frame to eliminate frame cracking."
and
"WELD BRACKET TO KEEP FRAME FROM CRACKING!"
It only says to weld the bracket that the right axle arm pivots on. So I'm debating going to a welder and having the bracket welded on. If I get time I might contact Rough Country to get their input on this.
later
Brian