SFC2001 - MANY THANKS! I also have a 99 Expy, same problem, same desire to save $1000. Also appreciate your pointer to alldatadiy - I can see I will be a frequent visitor there.

I got my blend door out after 5 hours and was hoping some of you who have done this before can help me out:

1. Is the blend door available separatelyl? It looks like some have posted they bought the door by itself, while others had to buy the whole box. I tried going to the online Ford parts places I could find (fordpartsnetwork, fordpartsdiscounted) and could find neither the door nor the entire box.

2. The door has this number stamped into it: F65H-18B545AF. Is this the Ford P/N? If it is, maybe I can take it to a local Ford dealer and have them get me another one.

3. Since I have the blend door motor also out, do you think it makes sense to replace it also at this time? Even though it probably was working (I got no error code on the EVIC self test), I'd hate to not replace it and then have it go out a month later - know what I mean?

Thanks again for all your help.
Rob

 

Yes, the blend door is available separately... The p/n on my blend door box was: YL7Z-19D963-BA (Box reads 'One Frame')

You get the door and frame, about $28.

And yes, I'd replace the actuator also while you've got it out, around $50-60, might as well while you've got it out.

Good luck...

 

Problem: Front air full hot all the time, rear air cold. I did not have the problems with air suddenly coming out of the defroster, nor did it go sometimes hot / sometimes cold.

Solution: Blend door motor replacement or blend door replacement. I tried the blend door motor replacement first (excellent directions posted above) but when I got down there the plastic shaft of the blend door was shattered, and the blend door actuator would turn if I adjusted the temperature controls - so blend door actuator/motor okay, but have to replace blend door ("Crap!" is right). I bought the blend door from the dealer for $30 - labor would be approx. $1200 to replace. Decided to do repair myself.

Step 1: Read posts in this thread.

Step 2: Purchase subscription to www.AllDataDIY.com for $25.

Step 3: Print out instructions for dash board and console removal. Print out instructions for dash board and console installation.

Step 4: Buy beer, deceive buddy into helping you with "minor repair". I enlisted the help of a mechanically-inclined friend since I am not by any means a good mechanic. We were able to complete the job in just over 7.5 hours.

Notes and Tips:

1. Be sure to label all your parts / screws / bolts in plastic baggies.

2. Tools required: 10 mm, 7 mm, 8 mm sockets, 10 mm deep-well socket. You also need a larger socket (12 or 13 mm, I think) and one tiny socket (4 or 6 mm, I think) but I can't remember exactly right now. You need a small torx to remove the center console, but that's the only torx you'll need. You'll need a multitude of extenstions for your rachet. A small electric screwdriver might make it faster, and to do it really right, a tourqe screwdriver would be better than a big tourqe wrench. A push-pin-type retainer removal tool is a big help.

3. The All Data instructions are excellent.

There are a few additional bolts at the end that we had to remove to get the dash off, but they were visible and easy to find.

When you get to the step about "positioning the RH splash guard away from the dash" you have to do it from under the fender well on the passenger side. (The picture is not very good, and after working inside the car for an hour or two is seems strange to stop and move to the outside, but that's what it requires, unless you do this step at the very beginning to do all the "dirty work" first.)

The air suspension on/off switch pulls forward out of its holder so you can remove / install the plug on the back. (Much easier than trying to sqeeze your hand in behind it to undo / install the plug.)

4. The posts above are excellent, but:

You DO have to remove the glove box. You don't have to have the special tool...we just wedged open the hinges at the bottom of the glove box with screwdriver handles and removed the three bolts from the dash - I'm not saying it's the safest way to do it, but it worked.

You DO NOT have to remove the headlight switch, radio, or any additional panels other than what is in the ALL Data directions.



Good luck, and it's not that bad. It was definitely worth the $1100 savings!!!

 

I was driving and the check engine and the the overdrive light was flashing any recomendations?

 

aerocolorado and shadow114:

The 'fix' you describe with the temperature control **** is similar to the problem I had. If you pull the temperature control **** off of its stem, you'll probably find that the shaft on the back of the **** is cracked. If so, the **** won't have a tight enough grip around the stem to turn the potentiometer. It will work in small increments like mine did, but the **** will eventually completely fail to turn the stem. At that point you will have to repair the **** with superglue (like I did) or replace it with a new one.

 

REplaced Blend door and now I have to re-insert Blend door actuator (previous mechanic left it off whnwe hard-wired blend door temporarily. Milkman's previous post says to just pry down floor duct and insert actuator. Extremley tight and concerned with knocking out blend door (another 11 hours to pull dash).

Can the floor duct that goes up into dash be pulled?
Are there any other alternatives/?

 

What I did to make the re-insertion easier was 'nipping' off one of the plastic 'tabs' on the ductwork. As I remember, there was a very obtrusive plastic flange/tab that was making the reinsertion much more difficult... It's real obvious which one, when you're trying to pry the duct around to get the actuator back in.

After fooling around w/it for an hour I just got my tin snips out and nipped that bugger right off, gave me a lot more room to maneuver the actuator into place. Didn't hurt a thing. :-)

Good luck...

 

The instructions were great but I can not find the blender door. Any idea where I can find the part. The local Ford garage will only sale the whole chamber.

 

The Ford part number for the blend door and frame -- approx US $30 -- is

YL7Z-19D963-BA (Box reads 'One Frame')

This gets you the blend door, and blend door frame.

Best of luck,
Scott

 

Should be able to special order Blend Door and Frame from Ford Dealership. Try another one.

 

I figured out from reading posts here that I had the infamous blend door problem....I called my local dealer and they said they could fix the blend door for about $140. in labor!! From looking at everyone's post on how expensive and time consuming it was....I said kewl....do it!!! I took it in and they replaced the blend door and the motor....and finally bill was only $350!!!!.....they apologized for under-quoting me on the labor....it was really like $240. labor....but I still figured I got a sweeeeet deal!!!!!!

Rick

 

Rick, I also have blend door problem and live in the St. Louis area. Where did you get your blend door fixed?

 

I do alot of business with Talbert Ford in DeSoto and have bought several new vehicles from them......The service manager apparently messed up on the labor quote and we worked out the deal for the changed rate......I think they had to eat some labor cost and they may not do it again........but it may be worth a try!!

Rick

 

I just changed the blend door and actuator on my 97 Expy....Before air was coming out of the front vents but hot....Now i don't have any air coming out the front vents, its coming out of the front defroster vents on any setting i put it on...What could be the problem now?

 

Sounds like you left a vacuum hose unattached when you reassembled, perhaps.