Mono leaf rear spring installation
#1
Mono leaf rear spring installation
I finished my mono leaf rear spring install today. The tricky part about it for 42-52 Ford pickups is that they had reversed eyes.
Somewhere on this forum I found one author who dropped a nugget of information. He briefly said that for additional clearance using reversed eyes, hangers might be flipped. Wish I knew who to give credit to.
I found out from a lad in Finland who is doing the same thing to an F-1, that if you don't flip the front hanger upside down, you end up with a dangerous situation. So much of the hanger has to be ground away, a full inch according to him and his pictures, that the safey of the hanger is in question.
My hangers were already bolted up, so it was simple to try it both ways. Ended up flipping it. Bolt holes all matched up. Ground away 3/16 inch material for a little added clearance between the bottom of the spring and the back of the reversed hanger. The clearance is now 1/2 inch.
On the inside of the rear shackle I used a die grinder to square up its inside surface, which did not take much grinding. The most time consuming thing of all was painting and drying the components.
There was a 39 lb. difference between the two mono's and the two 6 leaf stacks that were removed. The height of the rearend measured at the rear of the frame rale dropped 4.5 inches. Distance between top of the axle and the bottom of axle bumper is 3 inches. The mono was about 1 inch longer that the stock type mainleaf, so axle had to be bumped back about 3/8 inches for centering.
I think I am going to be happy with this arrangement.
A couple of things though. It seems obvious to me that a truck with this type setup is not meant to carry any loads.
Also, if it were to be driven in rainy conditions, perhaps a small 1/8 inch hole should be drilled in the bottom of the upside down hanger for water to drain out. An important service note might be to blow out the hanger with compressed air upon each washing of the truck, to remove accumulated dirt, grit and dust.
Now back to finishing my bed.
Mike
Somewhere on this forum I found one author who dropped a nugget of information. He briefly said that for additional clearance using reversed eyes, hangers might be flipped. Wish I knew who to give credit to.
I found out from a lad in Finland who is doing the same thing to an F-1, that if you don't flip the front hanger upside down, you end up with a dangerous situation. So much of the hanger has to be ground away, a full inch according to him and his pictures, that the safey of the hanger is in question.
My hangers were already bolted up, so it was simple to try it both ways. Ended up flipping it. Bolt holes all matched up. Ground away 3/16 inch material for a little added clearance between the bottom of the spring and the back of the reversed hanger. The clearance is now 1/2 inch.
On the inside of the rear shackle I used a die grinder to square up its inside surface, which did not take much grinding. The most time consuming thing of all was painting and drying the components.
There was a 39 lb. difference between the two mono's and the two 6 leaf stacks that were removed. The height of the rearend measured at the rear of the frame rale dropped 4.5 inches. Distance between top of the axle and the bottom of axle bumper is 3 inches. The mono was about 1 inch longer that the stock type mainleaf, so axle had to be bumped back about 3/8 inches for centering.
I think I am going to be happy with this arrangement.
A couple of things though. It seems obvious to me that a truck with this type setup is not meant to carry any loads.
Also, if it were to be driven in rainy conditions, perhaps a small 1/8 inch hole should be drilled in the bottom of the upside down hanger for water to drain out. An important service note might be to blow out the hanger with compressed air upon each washing of the truck, to remove accumulated dirt, grit and dust.
Now back to finishing my bed.
Mike
#3
#4
#5
51fordfan, that is a very good question. I guess for me the mono's were a better option because I could get it done quickly. I have been working on this truck a long time. Now we are getting ready to move, having just listed the property tonight, and I would like to be able to drive the truck to its new home.
Also as I mentioned in an earlier thread I like the ride of the front monos, even though there is only 20 miles on the truck to date.
Way back in 1993 the option of putting the axle over the springs came up, and I went the wrong way. With what others have said here about varying their stacks to achieve ride results, the axle over springs would probably be a better option simply because the stock springs are tried and true.
I shouldn't mention this because it will undoubtedly bring forth hoots. This probably goes back to my motorcycle racing days and chopper days after that. I have this thing about lightened vehicles, and my objective is to have the 46 1/2 ton have a gross weight of 2900 lbs or less, with fluids, and with the Y-block.
So, if you can make sense out of all this good luck!
Mike
Also as I mentioned in an earlier thread I like the ride of the front monos, even though there is only 20 miles on the truck to date.
Way back in 1993 the option of putting the axle over the springs came up, and I went the wrong way. With what others have said here about varying their stacks to achieve ride results, the axle over springs would probably be a better option simply because the stock springs are tried and true.
I shouldn't mention this because it will undoubtedly bring forth hoots. This probably goes back to my motorcycle racing days and chopper days after that. I have this thing about lightened vehicles, and my objective is to have the 46 1/2 ton have a gross weight of 2900 lbs or less, with fluids, and with the Y-block.
So, if you can make sense out of all this good luck!
Mike
#6
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