just upgraded my sealed beam to bosch's conversion h4
#16
02-20-2005, 11:07 PM
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#17
02-21-2005, 01:00 AM
Former ******
#18
02-21-2005, 01:59 AM
Aerovan, excellent pics! I like it! Now I am ashamed to be seen in my "old" GE HO Sealed Beams headlights. If you can, post a photo of your Aerostar with the Bosch headlights a "lights on" and "Lights off" photo of the front end of your van would be great. Regardless, I am very interested in this safety and lighting upgrade for my '87 Aerostar XLT////Ed PS I am very interested in learning more about the proper relays to use? I seem to remember an article I read awhile ago, that stressed the importance of using a relay for this type of lighting upgrade. What I remember most, is they said a relay, not only being a safety item, produces the brightest light possible, while actually reducing the current draw / useage from the headlight switch, and the overall electrical system that is in use when the engine is running, and the full headlights are on. In other words, with a relay(s), the Aerostar with the H-4 lights, are much brighter, whiter, and crisp, while drawing LESS current, than regular halogen glass headlights. Which makes me think, the 1992 - 1997 Aerostars, with the plastic composites, this upgrade is a MUST, including what AeroPA has posted with his expertise in this matter. Lastly, all cars, all makes, with the dull, faded, cloudy plastic covers from ultraviolet (sun) exposure, that must be like driving with one eye closed, and the other with a partial pirate eyepatch on!
#19
02-21-2005, 04:02 AM
Ed,
The relays can be gotten from your local Radio Shack. They are 1 cubic inch, black plastic, with a plastic mounting tab molded to one side of the case, and 4 spade connectors on the other end. They are knock-offs of these relays made by Bosch,
and are supposed to be good for 30 amps.
If wired properly, they will remove the load from your light switch (and high beam switch), and make even stock lights brighter. The reason is that you can install the relay close to your batter terminal so the wires are a lot shorter than the stock wiring. Then, if you install 30 amp wires (10 guage), it will conduct even better. But understand that with reduced wiring resistance, you actually deliver MORE current to the lights, which is what makes them brighter. What you reduce is resistive loss in the circuit from the stock wiring and headlight switch, and you can save the switch from burning out.
If you install the H4 lights, you should also know that the low beam filament runs 55 watts, like the low beams of the "high output" version of the DOT sealed beam halogen, versus the 35 watts of the low beam of a standard sealed beam halogen. So going from standard to "HO" or H4 will immediately require a relay to switch the current.
But the H4 is a much more efficient design, so you will get more light out of its 55 watts than the same 55 watts from the "HO" sealed beam lights. Also, note that the high beam of the H4 is only 60 watts, vs the 65 watts from the sealed beams. But again, due to its more efficient design, it just puts out more light.
I've posted this before, but anyone wishing to see the conversion I did on my 87 Mustang can check out my site:
geocities.com/eycchu
and look for the link to the European headlight installation.
I have seen some cars whose plastic lenses are so clouded over that it's like trying to shine a light through a plastic milk jug. Imagine having to see and drive by the illumination provided by such a light source. That has to be one of the worst legislations that Ford has ever lobbied through Congress.
The relays can be gotten from your local Radio Shack. They are 1 cubic inch, black plastic, with a plastic mounting tab molded to one side of the case, and 4 spade connectors on the other end. They are knock-offs of these relays made by Bosch,
and are supposed to be good for 30 amps.
If wired properly, they will remove the load from your light switch (and high beam switch), and make even stock lights brighter. The reason is that you can install the relay close to your batter terminal so the wires are a lot shorter than the stock wiring. Then, if you install 30 amp wires (10 guage), it will conduct even better. But understand that with reduced wiring resistance, you actually deliver MORE current to the lights, which is what makes them brighter. What you reduce is resistive loss in the circuit from the stock wiring and headlight switch, and you can save the switch from burning out.
If you install the H4 lights, you should also know that the low beam filament runs 55 watts, like the low beams of the "high output" version of the DOT sealed beam halogen, versus the 35 watts of the low beam of a standard sealed beam halogen. So going from standard to "HO" or H4 will immediately require a relay to switch the current.
But the H4 is a much more efficient design, so you will get more light out of its 55 watts than the same 55 watts from the "HO" sealed beam lights. Also, note that the high beam of the H4 is only 60 watts, vs the 65 watts from the sealed beams. But again, due to its more efficient design, it just puts out more light.
I've posted this before, but anyone wishing to see the conversion I did on my 87 Mustang can check out my site:
geocities.com/eycchu
and look for the link to the European headlight installation.
I have seen some cars whose plastic lenses are so clouded over that it's like trying to shine a light through a plastic milk jug. Imagine having to see and drive by the illumination provided by such a light source. That has to be one of the worst legislations that Ford has ever lobbied through Congress.
#20
02-21-2005, 06:48 AM
I had to switch to H4 lamps 7 years ago (legal requirements).
My problem was that I did not have the parts of the "old" Aerostar which had lamps of the same size. I first fastened the lamps with chrome rings to the large plastic bucket. The chrome rings rustened and fell off so I had a shop cut stainless steel covers to fit around the lamps. Looks a bit dumb but works. I'll try to post pictures.
My problem was that I did not have the parts of the "old" Aerostar which had lamps of the same size. I first fastened the lamps with chrome rings to the large plastic bucket. The chrome rings rustened and fell off so I had a shop cut stainless steel covers to fit around the lamps. Looks a bit dumb but works. I'll try to post pictures.
#21
02-21-2005, 03:54 PM
tomucen,
Are you in North America? Most scrap yards should still have cars or trucks that use the standard 200mm rectangular sealed beam headlights. This should be the same size and shape as the H4 200mm rectangular lights, so you should be able to find plenty of replacements. However, some have different locations for the mounting ears, so you should make sure the ones you pick up from the scrap yard match the bowls that you install your lights into. Generally, it's best to get both the retaining ring and the bowl that the light sits in from the same car. Also, I think some of them are actually made of stainless steel from the factory, so get those if you can.
Are you in North America? Most scrap yards should still have cars or trucks that use the standard 200mm rectangular sealed beam headlights. This should be the same size and shape as the H4 200mm rectangular lights, so you should be able to find plenty of replacements. However, some have different locations for the mounting ears, so you should make sure the ones you pick up from the scrap yard match the bowls that you install your lights into. Generally, it's best to get both the retaining ring and the bowl that the light sits in from the same car. Also, I think some of them are actually made of stainless steel from the factory, so get those if you can.
#22
02-21-2005, 04:55 PM
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ask and ye shall get. 
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v720/need4spd/e1%20halogen/aeroh4.jpg
lights off
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v720/need4spd/e1%20halogen/aeroh41.jpg
lights on
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v720/need4spd/e1%20halogen/aeroh42.jpg
bosch E1 closeup
do pardon me for the dirty van. its been snowing here and she's been out in the slushy roads for a bit.
and since the benefits of the relay harness has been explained by other members. i'll refrain from being a broken record.
just to add for the relay harness. use a 6a10 diode to only allow current to flow from the switch to the relay trigger only. the reason is that most relays are magnetic based. there's an inductor coil within the relay that connects and disconnects the electric path through magnetically moving the relay switch. these inductor coils are also energy storage devices. when it is energized, a magnetic field is created. when the trigger is de-energize, the magnetic field collapses. this collapsing field will generate electrical current enough to fry the OE switch over time. this is due to the electrical arcing when the switch is just turning off. kinda like a spark plug. the 6a10 is way overkill for this application, but its so dirt cheap (a few cents... if not a few 10's of cents for 1). its cheap insurance that pays for itself. you can find these on digikey or your local electronic parts store.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v720/need4spd/e1%20halogen/aeroh4.jpg
lights off
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v720/need4spd/e1%20halogen/aeroh41.jpg
lights on
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v720/need4spd/e1%20halogen/aeroh42.jpg
bosch E1 closeup
do pardon me for the dirty van. its been snowing here and she's been out in the slushy roads for a bit.
and since the benefits of the relay harness has been explained by other members. i'll refrain from being a broken record.
just to add for the relay harness. use a 6a10 diode to only allow current to flow from the switch to the relay trigger only. the reason is that most relays are magnetic based. there's an inductor coil within the relay that connects and disconnects the electric path through magnetically moving the relay switch. these inductor coils are also energy storage devices. when it is energized, a magnetic field is created. when the trigger is de-energize, the magnetic field collapses. this collapsing field will generate electrical current enough to fry the OE switch over time. this is due to the electrical arcing when the switch is just turning off. kinda like a spark plug. the 6a10 is way overkill for this application, but its so dirt cheap (a few cents... if not a few 10's of cents for 1). its cheap insurance that pays for itself. you can find these on digikey or your local electronic parts store.
Last edited by aerovan; 02-21-2005 at 05:05 PM.
#23
02-21-2005, 05:04 PM
Former ******
Yeah, when my headlights went ot, turned out it was the headlight switch. Melted the connector. However, my fix was a new switch, and a custom built connector. The new connector can't melt, and can't overheat. But I do need new headlights, with a better light spread. I'm not interested in brighness, just spread. I hate when someone with overly bright lights drives behind me, and I don't care to do the same.
#24
02-22-2005, 06:56 AM
Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
tomucen,
Are you in North America? Most scrap yards should still have cars or trucks that use the standard 200mm rectangular sealed beam headlights. This should be the same size and shape as the H4 200mm rectangular lights, so you should be able to find plenty of replacements. However, some have different locations for the mounting ears, so you should make sure the ones you pick up from the scrap yard match the bowls that you install your lights into. Generally, it's best to get both the retaining ring and the bowl that the light sits in from the same car. Also, I think some of them are actually made of stainless steel from the factory, so get those if you can.
Are you in North America? Most scrap yards should still have cars or trucks that use the standard 200mm rectangular sealed beam headlights. This should be the same size and shape as the H4 200mm rectangular lights, so you should be able to find plenty of replacements. However, some have different locations for the mounting ears, so you should make sure the ones you pick up from the scrap yard match the bowls that you install your lights into. Generally, it's best to get both the retaining ring and the bowl that the light sits in from the same car. Also, I think some of them are actually made of stainless steel from the factory, so get those if you can.
Unfortunately, I'm in Europe. Aerostars are exotic vehicles here, so no chance for finding anything on the junkyard.
#25
02-22-2005, 09:46 AM
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I found this while poking around. It covers converting on a VW bus. It does have a real good discussion about voltages and a schematic on how the wiring should run when installing relays.
www.type2.com/library/electris/newlight.htm
www.type2.com/library/electris/newlight.htm
#26
02-22-2005, 11:13 AM
Does anyone know if there are good quality non-plastic composite headlight assemblies available for the later model Aerostars?
I am very spoiled b/c the composites on my Subaru are made out of plexaglass, so they do not dull (even after 20 years of loyal service!!), but the Aerostar's are getting pretty bad, and reverting bact to sealed beams is undesireable b/c other vehicles in our family use the same halogen headlamps, and I prefer the spread afforded by composites (and ease of service).
I am very spoiled b/c the composites on my Subaru are made out of plexaglass, so they do not dull (even after 20 years of loyal service!!), but the Aerostar's are getting pretty bad, and reverting bact to sealed beams is undesireable b/c other vehicles in our family use the same halogen headlamps, and I prefer the spread afforded by composites (and ease of service).
Last edited by 93AeroEB; 02-22-2005 at 11:17 AM.
#27
02-22-2005, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by tomucen
Unfortunately, I'm in Europe. Aerostars are exotic vehicles here, so no chance for finding anything on the junkyard.
#28
02-22-2005, 02:18 PM
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You could also consider asking someone in the US that frequents junkyards to search for the parts you need and them ship them to you in Switzerland. I don't know about Swiss laws, buy I know that folks over here have parts imported from England fairly frequently for British Fords. I'm sure the opposite can be done as well...
#29
02-22-2005, 03:31 PM
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#30
02-22-2005, 03:37 PM
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Do you think Ford really spent the money on developing E-code headlamps for the handful of Aerostars they sent to Europe? One Ford engineer I know told me that Ford didn't put any more money into the Aerostar then they had to throughout its whole life. So I'd be surprised if they did make euro headlamps, but if they did, it would be nice to get those lamps here to replace the newer flush-mount ones for folks that don't like the sealed beam appearance...