Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator 1991-1994, 1995-2001, 2002-2005, 2006-2010 Ford Explorer

93 4.0 Blowing white smoke (Coolant I think)

  #1  
Old 02-17-2005, 02:09 PM
bchitwood73's Avatar
bchitwood73
bchitwood73 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Port Angeles WA
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
93 4.0 Blowing white smoke (Coolant I think)

I have 93 Explorer 4.0 that seems to be blowing a massive amount of smoke out the tailpipe. This smoke is not an oil burning smoke, its a coolant smoke I am pretty sure (smells very sweet like antifreeze). So after reading about common problems on the frist gen 4.0 I thought the issue may be a lower intake manifold leak caused by loose bolts. So I tightened them down and sure enough, problem solved, I thought. About 4 days goes by and BAM the problem is back. My questions is

Can the lower intake manifold gasket cause the white smoke issue? This rig is also not running so great either. Rough idle, and surging, also seems to have a dead spot in the RPM range at about 3K. Oil looks and smells fine and no signs point to a head gasket other then the smoke? I swear the problem with the white smoke went away for a few days after tightening down the lower intake manifold bolts but its back again. What does everyone thing?

Thank you,
Brad
 
  #2  
Old 02-18-2005, 11:48 AM
Johnboy_BoomerSooner's Avatar
Johnboy_BoomerSooner
Johnboy_BoomerSooner is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Cameron, OK
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Go ahead and get the gasket set that covers you from the heads up... I changed the manifold gaskets in mine about a year ago and now I have to go back into it again to do the head gaskets... I wish I had just done them all the first time I had it apart. Mine surges, sputters, and all out runs like trash till the radiator gets low and quits feeding so much water into the engine, then it runs fine... but hott... not really an improvement there. So the new gaskets should fix most of those issues.

While your in there take the time to dissasemble your intake and fuel assembly, I did mine and ran the parts through a parts washer (AKA the wifes dishwasher - guys, don't try this one at home... it gets you in deep stuff man) and removed all the carbon build up from around the EGR and the injectors. Remember to replace the o-rings on the injectors when you re-install them or your fuel injector system will look like a sprinkler system. But it was great for the old engine, I sure got a lot of performance and gas milliage back. Good Luck!
 
  #3  
Old 02-18-2005, 12:04 PM
bchitwood73's Avatar
bchitwood73
bchitwood73 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Port Angeles WA
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Cool, Good info here. So what you are saying is that I might as well do the head gaskets as well if I am already this deep into the motor? If thats the case then I think I have read somewhere that you need to replace the bolts that hold the heads down when doing this? Is that really nessasary or just another way for Ford to make $60?
Thanks,
Brad
 
  #4  
Old 02-18-2005, 04:20 PM
Johnboy_BoomerSooner's Avatar
Johnboy_BoomerSooner
Johnboy_BoomerSooner is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Cameron, OK
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Man, to be absolutely honest... if it were me and I had the time and the means I wouldn't shortcut anything. When I do mine this weekend I'll pull it apart and have the heads checked for cracks since it did get hot. If everything checks out then it's just new gaskets and assembly, it's not that much extra $$$ to do it right and have the peace of mind. I would say have the heads checked out... atleast get them checked and have the valve seals replaced while they have the springs off... minimal $$$ and you'll avoid oil smoke later down the road. The bolts are your call, I've never been really consistant on that and I probably won't on this engine unless I see something that disturbs me, but it's really not a bad idea. You can get the bolts at any fastenal or bolt supply place, just take your old ones so that you get the right lengths. My engine has 230K on it so there's no telling what I'll find once I get in there... if I had the means and the time I would rather overhaul it completely but it's just not an option right now.
 
  #5  
Old 02-18-2005, 06:35 PM
Dialtone's Avatar
Dialtone
Dialtone is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: South Texas
Posts: 942
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I looked thru the Haynes manual on 91-95 Exp's and the head R&R procedure did NOT mention anything about replacing the bolts. I think you are referring to the "Torque to Yield" bolts that were used on the 3.8L v6's in the Mustang/T-Bird/Cougar line. But, you know the old addage about an ounce of prevention being worth a pound of cure.
Dialtone
 
  #6  
Old 08-23-2016, 10:14 AM
Ultimate Automotive Leak Detector's Avatar
Ultimate Automotive Leak Detector
Ultimate Automotive Leak Detector is offline
Former Vendor
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Millcreek WA.
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
White Smoke

Is a sign of transmission fluid being drawed up into the carburator or fuel injection most of the time.
 
  #7  
Old 08-23-2016, 04:18 PM
Ultimate Automotive Leak Detector's Avatar
Ultimate Automotive Leak Detector
Ultimate Automotive Leak Detector is offline
Former Vendor
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Millcreek WA.
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
White Smoke

hharris8 I don't know if your truck is still smoking. But like I said had one once that had a ruptured module on the transmision and the result is it will draw the transmision fluid up the vacume line and cause the smoke. Your best bet is to unhook the line and let it idle for a while to see if the smoking stops. Don't for get to plug off the vacume at the carb. And that 1/4" line probilly runs down to a metal pipe and if the hose is loose were it hooks up just replace it don't wast time trying to clamp it that hose is like $1.50 a foot. And remember if there is transmision fluid in the line up at the carb you need to replace the transmision shift modual. And that will stop your smoking if transmision fluid is behind it.
 
  #8  
Old 08-23-2016, 06:05 PM
Ultimate Automotive Leak Detector's Avatar
Ultimate Automotive Leak Detector
Ultimate Automotive Leak Detector is offline
Former Vendor
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Millcreek WA.
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
No hharris8

No I wasn’t offended my spelling is terrible but when I remember to use spell check I can clean it up a bit. And thank you for mentioning it or I would still be using bad spelling and not even be aware of it. And I hope you read those post because I do believe you could have a modulator issue mounted on the tail end of your transmission. And it alone could be responsible for that black gook in the base of your carb and it also could be behind the smoke at your exaust.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
04F250CC60
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
15
12-15-2019 09:22 PM
tomdowling
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
6
07-15-2016 01:30 PM
vtpkrat2
1997 - 2003 F150
14
05-27-2016 09:46 PM
jewel57
6.4L Power Stroke Diesel
8
03-28-2016 01:58 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: 93 4.0 Blowing white smoke (Coolant I think)



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:18 PM.