It feels good to be able to do it yourself too.

 

Bolt trick worked like champ. Thanks for the tip guys

 

Thank you soooooo much. I registered specifically to tell you this. We have a 2005 Ford 500 that this worked on and you saved my husband from having an aneurysm. We would totally buy you dinner!

 

All of us?

 

As happy as that man is I am sure he wouldn't mind!

 

Thank you, sanman1969, for this tip. I joined just to thank you and let you know that this tip also works on 2006-2010 Chevy Impalas. Without this tip, I would have had a $300+ brake job (quoted by a tire dealer). Because of your advice, it was $80 in NAPA parts!

 

Hello All! I replaced my rear pads and rotors on Monday and spent most of today using the BFH and the cursing like a sailor while trying to replace the front ones. I started the "bolt trick" and have been unsuccessful thus far. I saw on one of the other posts that for 2WD trucks, you may need to remove the cotter pin and retaining nut that I am supposing covers the bearings? (Newbie alert!!!) How do I remove that nut, it's friggn huge?! (Can I say that?)

 

if you want to prevent this issue in the future all you need to do is simply apply a thin coating of antisieze to hub and center hole of the rotor. do this each time you remove the rotors and you will never have this problem again. as for getting the rear stuck on rotors off you could use the same method. my only concern with this tip is you might end up bending or breaking the caliper mount brackets

 

i'm not sure but i think if i remember correctly you do not need to remove the wheel bearing nut. I think the 2 wheel drive rotors are the same as the 4 wheel drives. but incase i'm wrong you'll to get i think it is a 35mm socket to fit and i recomend a good air impact gun, but you can use a breaker bar and if need be a large pipe like say a jack handle to get the nut off. just be sure to torque the nut back to factory specs. and replace the cotter pin. and you should be able to get the tools you don't have at your local advanced, autozone,or napa parts store.

 

Cut them with a sawzall and split them if nothing else works.

 

After removing the spindle nut, everything else was a breeze. I used the "loan-a-tools" from Autozone and I am finished. Enjoyed a smooth quiet ride as I returned the unneeded/borrowed supplies.

 

I was searching the web for how to remove stuck rotors on an Expedition and stumbled accross this forum. The bolt trick worked like a charm on the second rotor, 1st had the crap beaten out of it with a 3 lb sledgn,a can of PB blaster and a ton of colorful adjectives. I figured there had to be a better way.

Thanks for the help

 

I agree 100%. Anti-sieze is your friend!!

 

After spending several hours trying to get one rear rotor off I gave up and put it all back together and said I would take it to a local shop! Then I said: There has to be a way!

I found this post and after reviewing the posts and this video I set out the next day, along with some PB Blast, and had the first rear one was off in minutes. The second followed suite rather quickly, but only using the method of soaking and pounding. (a splash plate prevents use of the bolts on the rear rotors on a 2004 Expedition.)

I had attempted the soak and pound method on the first front, but no go. Within a matter of minutes, the bolt method popped off the rotor.

So 5 hours later, I'm 56, my last brake job was finished. BTW I brushed all of the rust away and used a very, very light coat of white lithium grease to coat around the hub.

Thanks to every one for this great post and videos!

 

FYI, lithium grease won't help. It's neither weatherproof, nor can it take the heat generated by the brakes. You should use anti-seize instead, as it is weatherproof and can take the heat.