Using Ether On 6.9L Diesels...
#1
Using Ether On 6.9L Diesels...
Okay, I know that saying ether in the Ford diesel world is almost banned, but it is something that I must bring up. I've almost had it with this engine not starting.
The last time I started this truck was around 8:30 last night. It ran until around 9:00 and I shut it off. This afternoon, I came in and tried to start it at 3:15. So, it's not be started in the past 18 hours. It's raining here and the temp is around 51*F. I turned on the key, let the GP light go out, and hit the starter. I stayed on it for around 15 seconds. It acted like it wanted to hit, but it never did take off. The accelerator was pressed half-way to the floor. At this time, the heater is plugged in and I am waiting on it to warm up enough to start.
I'm worried that it's the glow plugs, but I don't want to change them. I know that it is not safe to use ether on these engines because of the glow plugs, but is this the only reason? I'm afraid if I attempt to remove the GP's, the tips will break off and I will end up with a dead truck until I get the time to fix it.
What I'm asking is this... Is there someway that the glow plug power source could be disconnected so they won't come on when the key is turned? If so, would it then be safe to use ether to start my 6.9L? I have started tractors all the way down to 5*F with the use of ether. If that's what it takes to get this truck started, then I'm willing to do it.
I also know that most likely once ether is used, it will not start without it. I am willing to take that risk. To me, it's better to start it on ether as for it to not start at all. I will try to make it a priority to get around to changing the GP's this spring.
To summarize what I have posted, my question is once again this;
1) Is there a way to disconnect the power source to the GP's or the GP Relay so that the GP's won't come on when the key is turned to the "On" position?
2) If there is a way that the GP's can be disconnected and not come on at all, would it then be safe to use ether for engine starting when needed?
Thanks for any insight!
Nightrain
The last time I started this truck was around 8:30 last night. It ran until around 9:00 and I shut it off. This afternoon, I came in and tried to start it at 3:15. So, it's not be started in the past 18 hours. It's raining here and the temp is around 51*F. I turned on the key, let the GP light go out, and hit the starter. I stayed on it for around 15 seconds. It acted like it wanted to hit, but it never did take off. The accelerator was pressed half-way to the floor. At this time, the heater is plugged in and I am waiting on it to warm up enough to start.
I'm worried that it's the glow plugs, but I don't want to change them. I know that it is not safe to use ether on these engines because of the glow plugs, but is this the only reason? I'm afraid if I attempt to remove the GP's, the tips will break off and I will end up with a dead truck until I get the time to fix it.
What I'm asking is this... Is there someway that the glow plug power source could be disconnected so they won't come on when the key is turned? If so, would it then be safe to use ether to start my 6.9L? I have started tractors all the way down to 5*F with the use of ether. If that's what it takes to get this truck started, then I'm willing to do it.
I also know that most likely once ether is used, it will not start without it. I am willing to take that risk. To me, it's better to start it on ether as for it to not start at all. I will try to make it a priority to get around to changing the GP's this spring.
To summarize what I have posted, my question is once again this;
1) Is there a way to disconnect the power source to the GP's or the GP Relay so that the GP's won't come on when the key is turned to the "On" position?
2) If there is a way that the GP's can be disconnected and not come on at all, would it then be safe to use ether for engine starting when needed?
Thanks for any insight!
Nightrain
#2
On the 6.9 you can put a manual push button on the GPs go to Ziggster's .....
http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/
Try using WD 40 instead of ether, gotta spray it in the throat........safer.
One main reason not to use ether is if the GPs are on, the ether can prematurely explode and back the engine up and cause major internal damage. Check all your GPs with a test light clip to battery++, point to tip of GP with GP elec connector removed. Good GPs show a lit test light.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/
Try using WD 40 instead of ether, gotta spray it in the throat........safer.
One main reason not to use ether is if the GPs are on, the ether can prematurely explode and back the engine up and cause major internal damage. Check all your GPs with a test light clip to battery++, point to tip of GP with GP elec connector removed. Good GPs show a lit test light.
#3
Go to www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/
You can install a push button to use only when you want to. With the block heater you should not need ether. Try not to use it at all. There must be some other problem. Don't use the starter more than 20 seconds. Let it cool for 2 minutes. How long does the wts light stay on?
You type faster than I do.
Listen to PLC7.3, he knows diesels
You can install a push button to use only when you want to. With the block heater you should not need ether. Try not to use it at all. There must be some other problem. Don't use the starter more than 20 seconds. Let it cool for 2 minutes. How long does the wts light stay on?
You type faster than I do.
Listen to PLC7.3, he knows diesels
Last edited by trike1946; 02-07-2005 at 06:14 PM.
#6
Mine wont start unless I put my foot through the floorboard and then it starts good. Ether is unnecessary but if you do use it it will not get addicted to it and need it to start. Its an engine, not a crack addict. Ether can be used any time u need it.
Have all the fuel lines checked, especially all the lines in the enine area around the lift pump and the return lines.
Have all the fuel lines checked, especially all the lines in the enine area around the lift pump and the return lines.
#7
Thanks for the response fellas!
See, here's what I'm thinking... The truck had been parked in an old barn for almost 3 years. As far as I could tell, it had anywhere from 1/2 to 1/4 of a tank of diesel when it started. It took some WD-40 to get it started, but she did start. The owner NEVER used ether on this truck. He hates the stuff with a passion. I, myself, use whatever works, as long as it causes no harm. Anyway, I drove straight to the service station at pumped in 10 gallons of fresh diesel. Then, I added a bottle of Lucas Diesel Fuel Injector Cleaner/Conditioner and 1/4 of a small bottle of Diesel Kleen and I've been driving the heck out of it. I think that getting all of that old diesel out and replacing it with fresh will help more than anything though.
I saw the push-button GP controller at Ziggster's. I'm going to rig that up Wednesday. I'm going to some part stores to see if I can find a push-button toggle with a little red light or something to show when it does make contact and put power to whatever it's directed to. Any further responses are greatly appreciated!
On the plugging in, it's possible here at home, but impossible at work. I pull a 12-hour shift and on some of these cold nights, it seems that this truck just won't start without plugging it in. I am afraid that it's the GP's, but I am scared to change them. A local truck service center priced labor at $50-$75 to change them if I provided the plugs. I'm just afraid that they'll take the old ones out, break off some tips, and not agree to fix what they have done. I dunno though...
I'm not one that usually takes the easy way out. I like for things to work right and work right the first time. In this situation, if this engine will start BARE-BONES, (i.e. No GP's, No Plugging In, etc.), with ether or WD-40, I will take that route. Either way, without any heating source at all, if used correctly, it's almost guaranteed to start on ether, correct?
Thanks again ya'll!
Nightrain
See, here's what I'm thinking... The truck had been parked in an old barn for almost 3 years. As far as I could tell, it had anywhere from 1/2 to 1/4 of a tank of diesel when it started. It took some WD-40 to get it started, but she did start. The owner NEVER used ether on this truck. He hates the stuff with a passion. I, myself, use whatever works, as long as it causes no harm. Anyway, I drove straight to the service station at pumped in 10 gallons of fresh diesel. Then, I added a bottle of Lucas Diesel Fuel Injector Cleaner/Conditioner and 1/4 of a small bottle of Diesel Kleen and I've been driving the heck out of it. I think that getting all of that old diesel out and replacing it with fresh will help more than anything though.
I saw the push-button GP controller at Ziggster's. I'm going to rig that up Wednesday. I'm going to some part stores to see if I can find a push-button toggle with a little red light or something to show when it does make contact and put power to whatever it's directed to. Any further responses are greatly appreciated!
On the plugging in, it's possible here at home, but impossible at work. I pull a 12-hour shift and on some of these cold nights, it seems that this truck just won't start without plugging it in. I am afraid that it's the GP's, but I am scared to change them. A local truck service center priced labor at $50-$75 to change them if I provided the plugs. I'm just afraid that they'll take the old ones out, break off some tips, and not agree to fix what they have done. I dunno though...
I'm not one that usually takes the easy way out. I like for things to work right and work right the first time. In this situation, if this engine will start BARE-BONES, (i.e. No GP's, No Plugging In, etc.), with ether or WD-40, I will take that route. Either way, without any heating source at all, if used correctly, it's almost guaranteed to start on ether, correct?
Thanks again ya'll!
Nightrain
Last edited by Nightrain; 02-07-2005 at 11:52 PM.
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#10
#11
Originally Posted by toyrobotus
My question is: if you were to have disconnected the GP's, what exactly was going to fire the ether?
Nightrain
#12
Originally Posted by RANCHHAND
I had almost put an ether set up on my old 85, similar to the ones you see on tractors. You know the push button in the cab! But then I sold it. If you are bent on ether, I would just unplug the controller on the rear of the engine.
Nightrain
#13
Originally Posted by Nightrain
Well, the compression in the cylinders itself, I hope. It'll be the same process on a Ford diesel engine as it would a tractor diesel engine. MOST tractors don't have glow plugs. In fact, I've never seen one with any, but hey, I don't buy new tractors either. Anyway, ether is highly flammable and the compression itself should ignite it. Right fellas?
Nightrain
Nightrain
#14
I was just going to put a tap into the intake and run a small tube similar to your boost guage tube, then you could buy a new set up from an equipment supply, or find a junked older semi or tractor with an ether setup and hook it all up. The only thing you'd have to do after that is replace the ether cylinder every few months.
#15
Originally Posted by toyrobotus
Compression fires ether? I guess I dont understand the process. I always thought that the bad part of hitting the diesel engine with ether was that the GP's could be warm and fire the ether back in your face. Additionally I have been told that when the ether fires, the charge is enough to cause damage to the rings and even the GP's themselves. I understand the idea that once an engine gets up to temp the process of firing in the cylinder would occur w/o the GP's being lit...but they do maintain a temperature (glow) that would ignite the charge, not the compression.