Help - 6cyl engine runs rough
#1
Help - 6cyl engine runs rough
Hey I'm new to Ford trucks. I just got a 2000 F-150 6cyl XLT. It has a new battery and oil change, but not sure when the last tuneup occured.
At pretty much any speed/any gear the car starts to sputter, feels like a cylinder stops firing. The engine runs rough under moderate acceleration, like merging onto a highway. Usually when the throttle is light it stays smooth though not every time. And usually as quickly as the problem occurs it clears up and runs fine again.
So before I pull the plugs this weekend I thought I'd check with the group and see if some of you can point me in the right direction quickly.
I'm inclinded to believe its either the cap/rotor, maybe the plugs or possible the fuel filter. Anyone else have a similar problem before.
Thanks,
J
<!-- / message -->
At pretty much any speed/any gear the car starts to sputter, feels like a cylinder stops firing. The engine runs rough under moderate acceleration, like merging onto a highway. Usually when the throttle is light it stays smooth though not every time. And usually as quickly as the problem occurs it clears up and runs fine again.
So before I pull the plugs this weekend I thought I'd check with the group and see if some of you can point me in the right direction quickly.
I'm inclinded to believe its either the cap/rotor, maybe the plugs or possible the fuel filter. Anyone else have a similar problem before.
Thanks,
J
<!-- / message -->
#2
You can eliminate distributor cap and rotor button because it doesn't have them. You have a coil pack.
My 2000 has 106,XXX miles on it and you pretty much just described the way mine runs. I have changed the filter,wires,plugs (Motorcraft OEM is the board favorite, no Bosch) and cleaned MAF to no avail. Maybe, you'll have better luck. Mine will sputter and gasp until the RPMs build up and then will smooth out.
My next step will be to search for vacuum leaks and maybe replace the coil pack. I know I have a vacuum leak because my heat/air will switch from dash vents to the defrost vents on it's own during hard acceleration. I hope that helps.
How many miles on your truck?
My 2000 has 106,XXX miles on it and you pretty much just described the way mine runs. I have changed the filter,wires,plugs (Motorcraft OEM is the board favorite, no Bosch) and cleaned MAF to no avail. Maybe, you'll have better luck. Mine will sputter and gasp until the RPMs build up and then will smooth out.
My next step will be to search for vacuum leaks and maybe replace the coil pack. I know I have a vacuum leak because my heat/air will switch from dash vents to the defrost vents on it's own during hard acceleration. I hope that helps.
How many miles on your truck?
#3
I have 98,000 miles on it. It was my brother in law's car so I confirmed with him that this problem is new and that he has only done oil changes and the routine maintenance. So that would mean that the fuel filter has to old and that the coil pack has never been replaced.
Since the problem just happened again, now showing the check engine light, I'm inclined to believe that it is electrical. However I've been running Shell gasoline in it and it doesn't seem to act up when the tank is full.
J
Since the problem just happened again, now showing the check engine light, I'm inclined to believe that it is electrical. However I've been running Shell gasoline in it and it doesn't seem to act up when the tank is full.
J
#4
If your CEL is on, then you can get the code read. That should help.
If it doesn't have newplugs and wires, that is the first step.
I'd suggest Motorcraft plugs and wires.
Wise to replace the fuel filter even if that isn't the problem.
ALTHOUGH...I currently have Champion copper plugs in the 2000 and they have done as good as the OEM Platinum plugs - just won't last as long.
The coil packs AFAIK, are not prone to failure. I'd look elsewhere real good before I changed the coil pack.
Bes ure to check back and let us know!
BTW, WELCOME TO FTE! Glad you found us and hope you stick around.
If it doesn't have newplugs and wires, that is the first step.
I'd suggest Motorcraft plugs and wires.
Wise to replace the fuel filter even if that isn't the problem.
ALTHOUGH...I currently have Champion copper plugs in the 2000 and they have done as good as the OEM Platinum plugs - just won't last as long.
The coil packs AFAIK, are not prone to failure. I'd look elsewhere real good before I changed the coil pack.
Bes ure to check back and let us know!
BTW, WELCOME TO FTE! Glad you found us and hope you stick around.
#5
I've checked the vacuum lines. Nothing is standing out. The problem has gone from sporatic to full time in just over two weeks so this has bbeen a progressive situation.
A friend has suggested condensation in the tank as it has been fluctuating from warm to very cold in Texas daily. Another has suggested a problem with Shell gas and fuel injectors. Nothing on the web seems to point fingers directly at Shell but several sites said that there is a problem with all gas companies creating fuel that is leaving injectors dirty.
Hopefully I can get the code read this weekend and I'll report back. Otherwise any other suggestions?
A friend has suggested condensation in the tank as it has been fluctuating from warm to very cold in Texas daily. Another has suggested a problem with Shell gas and fuel injectors. Nothing on the web seems to point fingers directly at Shell but several sites said that there is a problem with all gas companies creating fuel that is leaving injectors dirty.
Hopefully I can get the code read this weekend and I'll report back. Otherwise any other suggestions?
#6
#7
change plugs and wires....my 98 did the same thing and the code called for #4 cyl misfire...replaced the plugs and wires, problem went away....
however, my local autoparts store gave me champion double platinum plugs as they were out of the motorcraft....you guys think i should go back to motorcrafts....are they that much better???
however, my local autoparts store gave me champion double platinum plugs as they were out of the motorcraft....you guys think i should go back to motorcrafts....are they that much better???
Trending Topics
#8
#9
So I looked at the manual and it says that at 100K miles it's time to replace the various filters and plugs. So I'm going to put in a new air filter, fuel filter and plugs. Now I bought the Motorcraft plugs, seems like most are happy with those, but Autozone did not have a Motocraft Wire Set. They had Bosch "Premium wire set" with a lifetime warranty.
As mechanical fate would have it the truck is running perfectly today and I haven't done anything to it yet. But since the last two weeks have been rocky I'm going to replace the recommended components anyway. I will hold off on the wires today though if you all have had bad experiences with the Bosch wires. I can still return them and get another brand elsewhere. Let me know, Thanks
J
As mechanical fate would have it the truck is running perfectly today and I haven't done anything to it yet. But since the last two weeks have been rocky I'm going to replace the recommended components anyway. I will hold off on the wires today though if you all have had bad experiences with the Bosch wires. I can still return them and get another brand elsewhere. Let me know, Thanks
J
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dan64F100
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
14
06-25-1999 05:04 AM