cooling/system-tem gauge help
#1
cooling/system-tem gauge help
OK you flat hed gurus,im new to the flathed scene,i have a 53 239,that had an over heating problm,i flushed rad and coolingsystem and installed 160 degree thermostats,my temp gauge reads just past half way to 3/4 -so far hasnt gone all the way to hot,truck is not "bulbling over -or seem to be over heating,maybe afaulty temp sender?? whre should gauge read??
#2
It could read anywhere. The most important thing is to make sure the system is clean and that your radiator has the fan shroud on it!
If you really want to know what's going on, by the $10 water temp gauge and install it in one of the extra ports. See what it says and then take it out if you don't like it.
If you really want to know what's going on, by the $10 water temp gauge and install it in one of the extra ports. See what it says and then take it out if you don't like it.
#3
Welcome to flathead insanity - you'll get hooked if you're not careful.
Basically what 2speed said. The stock gauges are notoriously innacurate. They give you a general indication of where your temp is relative to your truck. Mine runs just above 3/4 normally and bumps about halfway between 3/4 and H when I push it hard or climb a mountain pass here.
You should run a 180 T-stat. 160 won't let the engine get warm enough to evaporate the contaminants in the oil and causes sludge buildup and increased wear in the engine.
Keep the coolant level about 2" below the top of the rad neck - it needs some room to expand. It'll puke the extra out the overflow tube until it reaches its own point of equilibrium.
If I read your note correctly, you don't have coolant loss or any other signs of overheating. Did you assume it was too hot just because of the gauge reading? If that's the case, put it back together and drive it! If the gauge ever pegs on the hot side, stop immediately and find out why. Otherwise I doubt it is too hot.
If you have access to an infrared temp sensor check the head, hoses and rad top tank for actual temps. Then you'll have a better picture of whats going on.
Hope some of this rambling helps. If not, ask away and we'll keep trying.
Basically what 2speed said. The stock gauges are notoriously innacurate. They give you a general indication of where your temp is relative to your truck. Mine runs just above 3/4 normally and bumps about halfway between 3/4 and H when I push it hard or climb a mountain pass here.
You should run a 180 T-stat. 160 won't let the engine get warm enough to evaporate the contaminants in the oil and causes sludge buildup and increased wear in the engine.
Keep the coolant level about 2" below the top of the rad neck - it needs some room to expand. It'll puke the extra out the overflow tube until it reaches its own point of equilibrium.
If I read your note correctly, you don't have coolant loss or any other signs of overheating. Did you assume it was too hot just because of the gauge reading? If that's the case, put it back together and drive it! If the gauge ever pegs on the hot side, stop immediately and find out why. Otherwise I doubt it is too hot.
If you have access to an infrared temp sensor check the head, hoses and rad top tank for actual temps. Then you'll have a better picture of whats going on.
Hope some of this rambling helps. If not, ask away and we'll keep trying.
#4
Originally Posted by mtflat
Welcome to flathead insanity - you'll get hooked if you're not careful.
Basically what 2speed said. The stock gauges are notoriously innacurate. They give you a general indication of where your temp is relative to your truck. Mine runs just above 3/4 normally and bumps about halfway between 3/4 and H when I push it hard or climb a mountain pass here.
You should run a 180 T-stat. 160 won't let the engine get warm enough to evaporate the contaminants in the oil and causes sludge buildup and increased wear in the engine.
Keep the coolant level about 2" below the top of the rad neck - it needs some room to expand. It'll puke the extra out the overflow tube until it reaches its own point of equilibrium.
If I read your note correctly, you don't have coolant loss or any other signs of overheating. Did you assume it was too hot just because of the gauge reading? If that's the case, put it back together and drive it! If the gauge ever pegs on the hot side, stop immediately and find out why. Otherwise I doubt it is too hot.
If you have access to an infrared temp sensor check the head, hoses and rad top tank for actual temps. Then you'll have a better picture of whats going on.
Hope some of this rambling helps. If not, ask away and we'll keep trying.
Basically what 2speed said. The stock gauges are notoriously innacurate. They give you a general indication of where your temp is relative to your truck. Mine runs just above 3/4 normally and bumps about halfway between 3/4 and H when I push it hard or climb a mountain pass here.
You should run a 180 T-stat. 160 won't let the engine get warm enough to evaporate the contaminants in the oil and causes sludge buildup and increased wear in the engine.
Keep the coolant level about 2" below the top of the rad neck - it needs some room to expand. It'll puke the extra out the overflow tube until it reaches its own point of equilibrium.
If I read your note correctly, you don't have coolant loss or any other signs of overheating. Did you assume it was too hot just because of the gauge reading? If that's the case, put it back together and drive it! If the gauge ever pegs on the hot side, stop immediately and find out why. Otherwise I doubt it is too hot.
If you have access to an infrared temp sensor check the head, hoses and rad top tank for actual temps. Then you'll have a better picture of whats going on.
Hope some of this rambling helps. If not, ask away and we'll keep trying.
#6
I disagree with the need for two temp gauges, unless you are trying to isolate a problem to one side of the engine, like pump or thermostat. An easier way to isolate to one side is the hand held IR thermometer, that mtflat recommended. Borrow one, or for about $50, buy one. Warmed-up, the surface of my heads are about 175 degrees. The stock flathead has two senders, but one is actually a switch. When the switch gets hot, it moves from open to closed and the gauge goes full hot. The other one has a variable resistor that senses the temperature. To test the gauge (this works for FUEL and OIL too), take the gauge out of the circuit and apply 1.5 Volts DC across the posts. The needle should move to the center of the range within about 20 seconds. If it is close to center, you have calibrated how to read that gauge. If it is way off or motionless, replace it.
#7
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#13
I guess that makes sense, except one side is having heat transferred to cooler water that is going to vary the temp between the two banks. I understand that the heat will travel from a hot place to a cooler place but that takes time. And alot can happen in that time. I will not chance it with my motor. I'll stick with the extra gauge.
Last edited by F6Guy; 09-22-2006 at 05:58 PM.
#14