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carb'd '87 460, f350

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Old 01-27-2005, 04:47 PM
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carb'd '87 460, f350

I have been working on my 87 F350, removing the smog pumps and extra vaccum lines that pertain to the system. The reason for this was to figure out why, at idle, it smoked and ran rough. Blue smoke, like it was running rich. Today I removed the EGR and covered the intake port where it was located and installed new gaskets both below and above the lower plate that housed the EGR valve. I also plugged up the vaccum line that came out from the front of the same said plate. I am thinking that I am getting too much air in through broken and missing vaccum lines and I am trying to fix the problem by plugging up the sysem. What other things should I be looking for when I am removing this system. Is there anyway to adjust the caburator? It's a Holly Carb made for Motorcraft. The pvc valve is ok as well.. This truck sat for almost 4 years could just be time to rebuild the carb. It seems to me that More air should be going through the carburator and that would even out my problem. Any Ideas?
 
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Old 01-27-2005, 06:32 PM
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Black smoke is an indication of a over rich condition, white smoke is an indication of a broken head gasket, blue smoke is an indication that it's burning oil. Check your compression first. Pull your plugs and examine them for burnt oil residue. Check engine codes (fordfuelinjeciton.com to find out how). Baseline your issues and post. Someone will always help. Sounds like you have a cylinder problem though with the blue smoke.

Tex
 
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Old 01-27-2005, 07:21 PM
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If it sat for 4 years, and is now smoking, I'd guess there are a couple leaky valve stem seals or maybe some rust on the cylinder walls.
 
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Old 01-27-2005, 09:54 PM
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does it idle good for a few seconds after a hard run and then start sputtering on ya? and making black smoke and eventually load up and die? this is usually a carb float-needle not seating correctly. the carb needs to be looked at and sprayed down with carb cleaner inside the bowls where gas sat for 4 years. and possibly a rebuild kit. holleys are pretty simple and relaible. that's what my carb is doing, and a few good snaps of the throttle will clear it up for a few seconds. it may be that you have too much fuel pressure from a plugged return line.
 

Last edited by 89ford73; 01-27-2005 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:19 PM
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Black Smoke. I think that this is simply a caburator adjustment problem. The question that I have now is, how do you adjust the caburator? I'm use Chevy quadrajunk 4 barrell. Atleast there you have some screws that you can tinker with. What kind of an aftermarket carburator should I go with if I decide to replace the whole sha-bang?
Thanks for your posts
Farmboy350
 
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:31 PM
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well, it's hard to decide which carb to use. i personally prefer a smaller 650 double pumper with 50 cc pumps and bigger spray jets for a 460. it has plenty of go-juice if you'r not turning it over 5,000 or so. the smaller bores in the carb make for nice metering of fuel at part throttle with decent milege. you can always change out jets and valves in the carb easily. and if your truck has been backfiring on you, then you need to put new power valves in the carb because it is blown out. they blow very easy when they backfire a little and will make it idle rich.
 
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:38 PM
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Well maybe 89ford73 hit on something. That truck did a lot of backfiring when she finally did get her life back. So maybe by replacing the power valves I might win this thing after all. I got to thinking after I did my last post, It has to be running rich. It smells like raw fuel. It did tend to load up when left at an idle, and die. So maybe the carb rebuild is in order.
 
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:42 PM
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symptoms of a power valve will be comparable to a power valve in a quadra junk stuck wide open.
 
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:48 PM
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if it clears up and runs good when you take it out for a wide open run, if it clears up after you mash the throttle, that's when the power valve opens when its functioning normally, if it stays wide open all the time, then when you mash it it should clear up and run fine if its the power valve. you need to get one with a high number on it if you get just a valve, like a 6 or 7
 
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:59 PM
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I'll talk to the guys at the shop tommorrow.
 
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