My rewiring has been done for some time. Soldered and loomed up. Because I continually jack with things, I find it necessary to remove components frequently. Causing me to cut open looms, cut and re-solder. Really slows me down. Some affordable quality quick disconnecting plugs would sure be nice. I have looked hard locally at electronic supply houses, and everything is either too light, or too expensive. And usually more appropriate for very small home electronics. Most of what I need is in the 12-18GA range. I need something that I can solder the pins too, and then assemble connector. Not looking for any more molded pigtails. I spent considerable time drawing a color coded wiring schematice for my custom install. It's nice when the wire doesn't change color 6 inches before you reach the component.

Some need to be weatherproof, most do not. Some items I'd like to quick disconnect are headlight loom, audio, heater motor, power windows, wipers etc. Nothing with real high current draw, but many items have 12-14 GA supply.

 

Dewayne,

See P.S. below.

You've been around the block enough times to know there are literally thousands of specialized connectors available for specific applications. That said, based on the info you provided I think you might find the following part series just what you need. The series has contact housings handling from 1 to 15 circuits, with 19 Amp rating per contact. The plug and cap housings lock together so they won't come apart until you want them to. The male and female contacts need to be crimped on, but are then solderable and snap into the housings. Individual contacts can be removed with a small screwdriver to depress the locking tab. They provide a solid and reliable connection system. The connectors are similar to the Molex connectors that are widely used. Here's an illustration.


Here is the part number for a 9-circuit cap housing.

Manufacturer: Tyco Electronics
Manufacturer Part Number: 1-480707-0
Vendor: Newark Electronics (www.newark.com)
Vendor Part Number: 46F2058

Go to the Newark web site above and enter either part number (manufacturer or Vendor) into the search box. You'll get a table listing information about the part. In the Tech Info table column, click on the green catalog page icon. You'll get a new browser window that allows you to see the various housing configurations. You can select the plug and cap housing(s) you want in either natural nylon or white color, and add them to your shopping cart. Typical cost is about $0.25 per housing. You need one cap and one plug housing of the same size for each connection you want to make.

The pins for the housings are:

Manufacturer: Tyco Electronics
Manufacturer Part Number: 350547-1
Vendor: Newark Electronics (www.newark.com)
Vendor Part Number: 90F5659

The sockets for the housings are:

Manufacturer: Tyco Electronics
Manufacturer Part Number: 350550-1
Vendor: Newark Electronics (www.newark.com)
Vendor Part Number: 90F5659

Typical cost for pins and sockets is about $0.10 each.

Seals are also available for the connectors if you want them. The Manufacturer (Tyco) part numbers are:

2 circuit: 794269-1
3 circuit: 794271-1
4 circuit: 794273-1
6 circuit: 794275-1
9 circuit: 794277-1
12 circuit: 794279-1
15 circuit: 794281-1

The seals are anywhere from $0.10 to $1.00 each, depending on the number of circuits.

You can buy as few as one of any of the items above. I've used these a lot and they have never failed me - even on some equipment that sees a lot of vibration.

P.S. I just checked at Waytek Wire (See Earl's World Alternate Parts Vendor List) and they have the Tyco connectors and associated parts in a much easier-to-access format. The prices seem to be about the same - maybe a little higher than Newark's. Waytek also has lots of other wiring stuff you might be interested in.

 

George

They look like the standard connectors I see locally, and the ones I see locally would work great for audio, but would never accept a larger wire. (Like 12-14GA) I've over sized some circuits. Perhaps unnecessarily in some instances but I'm stuck with it now. What GA will they accept? I could probably go to the site and answer my own question. I will later.

I wish I had bought the Waytek crimpers and terminals we discussed years ago. They don't seem so expensive now. I would put my all solder wiring harness job up against NASA for reliability, but oh do I have WAY TOO much time in it. And it never ends when I haver to remove a component. Could have been driving and I was/continue to sniff solder fumes instead. You ever meet anybody overly meticulous like that?

 

Dewayne,

The wire size that those Mate-N-Lok connectors accept is set by which contacts you buy. Waytek shows the most common size contact (pin and socket) in their catalog. This most common size accepts 14 to 20 AWG wire. AMP/Tyco (the manufacturer) makes another contact size (pin and socket) that accepts wire up to 12 AWG, and yet another contact size that will accept 10 AWG if you need it. You might be able to get the larger (12 and 10 AWG) contacts from Waytek if you call them - even though they aren't listed in Waytek's catalog. Otherwise, you can order them through Newark. All the contacts are rated at 19 Amps per contact by the manufacturer - I don't know why Waytek derates them to 15 Amps. If you need more than 19 Amps in a circuit, or just want to be double-safe, it is perfectly legal to double the current capacity of a circuit through the connector by simply using two contacts for a single circuit.

A standard barrel-type crimping tool ($35 or less) like the one shown below will do an adequate job on Mate-N-Lok contacts, as long as you are going to solder them afterwards (and I know you would - I would too).


If you want to spend the big bucks ($200), AMP makes an industrial hand crimp tool that is rated for aerospace use. You really wouldn't need to solder afterwards if you use that bugger - it just about cold-welds the contact to the wire. The aerospace unit is what we use at work, but I don't think it's cost-effective at home unless you are doing thousands of crimps over time. Using the low-cost crimper, it doesn't take too long to run a little solder into the crimped section of the contact after you crimp it.

I'll wager that the time you have invested in your electrical system makes you feel a lot happier when you do drive the truck. I'll bet you are a lot more relaxed knowing you took your time doing the job right.

 

George

Yes, that is what I had in mind. The ones I have found local were good for about 18GA and came in 9 or 15 pins only. Not appropriate, and expensive. I will definitely be ordering some of those from Newark in a few days. Have to inventory the truck so I get what I need now. I'll get extra too. Will Newark sell me five of these and a dozen of those? I thought Waytek sells in large QTY when I checked them before?

Just to make sure I order the right stuff, can you recheck the Newark vendor number for the sockets? It's not really the same as the pin P/N as posted above is it? I may need a little assist on the 12GA P/N connectors too. But let me find out how many circuits first so you aren't wasting your time.

And yes, I am glad I soldered. It's infinitely more reliable than a bad crimp. But those NASA crimpers look attractive now, even at $200 bucks.

 

Fatfenders- I just went through the same thing as you. I keep finding more wires on my truck which are either too short or need replacing. I just rewired the wires going to my alternator. The main wire is 6GA going to the relay and to alternator. I had difficulty finding connections also. I went to Home Depot and Lowes Hardware supply. They had everything and every type of connector imaginable. From 2 GA to 18 GA. Hope this helps. Ed

 

I've been looking for a source for these too, will have to check out Newark. I still find that the very best connectors are in the boneyard, on American iron. I know what you mean about the color changing 6" from the connector, but does it matter? The whole point of the connector is that it only fits one way, and if troubleshooting, the pins are what you check anyway. Plus, the boneyard folks don't seem to value the used sockets very much.

 

the better connectors ive seen in the yards are usually on foreign steel we all know how those plastic clips of the ford ones brake so easy

 

Ross and Bill,

Seems like I remember that problem too. If I remember right, it happens more on old connectors - as in the nylon gets old, hard, and brittle. Is that what you find? Some new connectors might last a long time for Dewayne - especially inside the cab.

Dewayne,

DOAH!!! Here are the correct part numbers for everything. I got the can't remember ****** syndrome today.

Natural Nylon Color Plug Housings:
1 circuit, Tyco 1-350867-0, Newark 46F2049, $0.11 ea, stock
2 circuit, Tyco 1-480698-0, Newark 46F2063, $0.20 ea, stock
3 circuit, Tyco 1-480700-0, Newark 46F2065, $0.19 ea, stock
4 circuit, Tyco 1-480702-0, Newark 46F2067, $0.20 ea, stock
5 circuit, Tyco 1-480763-0, Newark 90F4576, $0.25 ea, stock
6 circuit, Tyco 640585-1, Newark 90F4830, $0.50 ea, stock
8 circuit, Tyco 640586-1, Newark 90F4836, $1.06 ea, stock
9 circuit, Tyco 1-480706-0, Newark 46F2057, $0.28 ea, stock
12 circuit, Tyco 1-480708-0, Newark 46F2059, $0.32 ea, stock
15 circuit, Tyco 1-480710-0, Newark 46F2061, $0.47 ea, stock

Natural Nylon Color Cap Housings (these mate with the plugs above):
1 circuit, Tyco 770421-1, Newark 92F8867, $0.12 ea, stock
2 circuit, Tyco 1-480699-0, Newark 46F2064, $0.18 ea, stock
3 circuit, Tyco 1-480701-0, Newark 46F2066, $0.20 ea, stock
4 circuit, Tyco 1-480703-0, Newark 46F2068, $0.20 ea, stock
5 circuit, Tyco 1-480764-0, Newark 87F5291, $0.28 ea, stock
6 circuit, Tyco 926307-1, Newark 92F8868, $0.84 ea, stock
8 circuit, Tyco 926308-1, Newark 92F8869, $1.28 ea, stock
9 circuit, Tyco 1-480707-0, Newark 46F2058, $0.25 ea, stock
12 circuit, Tyco 1-480709-0, Newark 46F2060, $0.28 ea, stock
15 circuit, Tyco 1-480711-0, Newark 46F2062, $0.42 ea, stock

Pins:
18-24 AWG, Tyco 350690-1, Newark 54H4163, $0.10 ea (10 or more), stock
14-20 AWG, Tyco 350547-1, Newark 01C1197, $0.10 ea (10 or more), stock
10-12 AWG, Tyco 640309-6, Newark 99F4824, $1.30 ea, stock

Sockets:
18-24 AWG, Tyco 350689-1, Newark 33B8247, $0.11 ea (10 or more), stock
14-20 AWG, Tyco 350550-1, Newark 33B8242, $0.10 ea (10 or more), stock
10-12 AWG, Tyco 640310-6, Newark 90F4795, $1.32 ea, stock

Crimp Tools:
18-24 AWG, Tyco 90548-1, Newark 96F9716, $148.63 ea, stock
14-20 AWG, Tyco 90546-1, Newark 96F9717, $148.63 ea, stock
10-12 AWG, Tyco 58530-1, Newark 93B6459, $202.41 ea, stock
ya need a different one for each size!!! 'Course, one bad crimp from a cheap tool on a $10,000 aircraft (or artillery) subsystem can make a complete set of these seem like a bargain at work. A full set is a little steep for me at home.

Newark Electronics (www.newark.com)

All items can be ordered in quantities as small as one each according to Newark's web site. Enjoy! Nothing like part numbers to brighten my day.

 

Gee George ???

couldn't you see the boy was in trouble... I would have thought a man of your talent and tenacity would have given him MORE detail..... geesh... I mean really George you didn't give him shipping cost estimates !!!

I'd have just told him to order a catalog and look them up himself... you (unlike me obviously) have a truck to build. My Saturday was spent stripping wallpaper and painting the living room to provide the best ambiance for our new living room decor and furniture... as Candice Olsen would say.. 'how devine' !!


you do know that if you treat him good or feed him you can't get rid of him don't you ???

later
john

 

I am a junkyard connector man myself. I must confess I have never soldered a connection ever. I just do a medium tug on it after crimping, and if it holds, it lasts. I don't recommend this for anyone, but it's my confession of the month. I guess I crimp well, since I have never had one fail. Just lucky I guess.

Has anyone tried that cold soldering iron advertised on TV? Just curious.

 

I avoid the connectors that are under the hood, when picking thru the wrecks. The ones under the dash or in the trunk don't get the heat or dirt, and trunk ones have long enough straight runs to make it worthwhile to take a couple yards of harness with them. American electrics are best, IMHO, and they are using AWG-gauge wires, not mils like some foreign.

While I'm at it, I snap up interesting under-dash courtesy lights -- I admit to being a junky for them. Nothing says "deluxe" to me as much as opening a door at night and having subtle, yet usable, lighting throughout the car/truck. No glaring overhead dome lights, please! Same for underhood lighting, I intend to get a Chevy Sierra-class underhood light for all my vehicles -- the ones with a wind-up cord and magnetic base. Most boneyards only want $5 for them.

And of course, pocket all the fuses and dash bulbs you can find

-- Ross

 

I know I'm hopeless John. I'm spending all my time at the computer and looking up parts instead of in the garage working on my truck. I was watching Patton (the movie) last night, and the line "God help me, I do love it so." (about Patton's attitude toward war) keeps rattling around in my brain as I type.

At our house, we all sit on orange crates around the giant wooden wire spool table. We do have a beat up couch in the living room that the two dogs use. My wife never seems to say "How Divine" anymore. I wonder why? She needs to hang out with Candice Olsen more.

Ross, now that's a quote I have to use on my wife! I been working with stuff like "Nothing says deluxe like beer cans with pop-top tabs - now get me that can opener." and it hasn't been working.

 

Reviews I've seen suggest that the battery powered soldering iron has fragile tips, and other flaws.

I've had a Weller Pyropen for a long time; it runs on butane, so it can be recharged instantly anywhere (unlike a rechargable iron I tried). It'll solder everything from delicate circuit boards up to battery cables, and the torch tip can be used for silver-soldering. The hot air output is great for heat shrink tubing, even in tight spaces.

Mouser Electronics and Digikey have some Tyco/AMP stuff too; you might find their shipping charges are friendlier than Newark's. http://www.mouser.com http://www.digikey.com (Digikey.ca is best for Canada: they somehow ship from within Canada so there's no customs hassles or brokerage fees from the courier)

Here's some weatherproof connectors: http://www.route66supply.com/store/page1.html

 

Wow, business must be slow around here (or you guys are awful bored) if I can get this much help on such a minor question. Thanks!

George

Thank you. That was above and beyond the call of duty for sure. This is important stuff. I just want to make sure my truck is good and reliable so I can drive to Alabama and whip a smart aleck.

Lower

I don't think we are talking about the same thing. If we are, then your Lowe's is a lot better than mine. I want quick disconnects so I can disassemble my truck every week and do stuff over. Niolon understands.

Albuq

Does it really matter if the wiring changes color 6 inches from the end? Yes, of course it does. Why would I start this thread if it didn't matter? My headlight wires are correct all the way out to my Bosch relays pigtails, then the colors change. Then six inches out of the relay they change back to code. Can't you see how perverse that is? Tell him George, he don't understand.

Paul

It's not the end of the world that you did not solder. OEM doesn't solder much, but they don't use a Wal-Mart crimper either. But there are a few vital circuits that really deserve a high quality connection. Either solder or crimp with a tool that cost a little more than ten bucks. Just concentrate on the circuits like charging, starting, ignition, lights. If the heater motor or radio loses connection you'll probably not be inconvenienced too much. I live in the salt zone. Crimps outside the cab were almost sure to come back in our face eventually when I worked in a commercial shop.

All

'fenders cheapazz electric tool tip of the month. I bought a Harbor Freight soldering gun for a spare. Yes, the orange one. I believe it was $5.95 and it has lasted longer than my last couple $40 Wellers. It quickly became my weapon of choice.