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  #1  
Old 01-21-2005, 11:28 AM
deltablues deltablues is offline
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abs light and humming noise

Hi all,

I've got a 99 Ford Ranger 4x4. Last week the abs light came on and hasn't shut off. Then a few days ago a humming noise coming frrom the front end was noticed. I work out in the field and use the 4x4 quite a bit. I've heard the humming noise once before after disengaging the 4x4. I stopped the truck reengaged the 4x4 then disengaged it, and the noise went away.

The noise sounds like you're riding on rough black top. Loud humming. Today I took the truck to get the tires looked at to rule them out. They are fine.

So now what do you all think about both problems?

Thanks for any help.
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  #2  
Old 01-21-2005, 08:22 PM
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Ken00 Ken00 is offline
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Welcome to FTE!!!

If you have 4 wheel ABS, stop by a local parts store that pulls codes for free and get the code, if you have RABS see the procedure in the tech info thread at the top of the forum.
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X Ranger, BII & NJ Chapter Moderator
2000 XLT Sport SC 3.0
2002 XLT Std Cab Long Bed 3.0
1989 Custom Std Cab Short Bed 2.9
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  #3  
Old 02-03-2005, 03:45 PM
deltablues deltablues is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken00
Welcome to FTE!!!

If you have 4 wheel ABS, stop by a local parts store that pulls codes for free and get the code, if you have RABS see the procedure in the tech info thread at the top of the forum.
It is a 4 wheel ABS.

No place around here would do it for free, we checked. Had to go to shop and get it done. But the codes are C1230 and C1102. We've been told that those are the rear wheel speed sensor and the G-switch or rather the ABS module. Apparently the ABS module is only a factory part, so a whopping $596.25 to buy. We've also got a rt. front bearing going out. It's another $227 at the local parts store.

If anybody can help us, these are our questions:

1. How difficult is it to replace the ABS module and rt bearing on our own? We have a brother who is very mechanically inclinde. He's just not done these particular fixes before on a newer module vehicle.

2. Are any special tools needed?

3. Considering the cost of all this, what kind of time span do you think we have before we make matters worse by not fixing immediately? A month okay? The truck is driven @40-100 miles daily with a great deal of stop and go.

Thanks for any help.
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Old 02-03-2005, 08:43 PM
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That is the correct meaing for those codes, remember each code has a series of pinpoint test to determine the exact fault. The wheel bearing is the most likely to cause damage.

Switch — G


Removal

1. Raise and support the vehicle; refer to «Section 100-02».

µ 2. Remove the nuts.

µ 3. Unclip the fuel filter from the vehicle frame.

µ 4. Remove the G-switch.

1 Disconnect the G-switch electrical connector.

2 Remove the G-switch.


Installation

µ 1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.


Sensor — Rear


Removal

1. Raise and support vehicle. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02».

µ 2. Note:
Clean off dirt and foreign material that may have collected around the rear anti-lock brake sensor before removal.

Remove the rear anti-lock brake sensor.

1 Disconnect the rear anti-lock brake sensor electrical connector.

2 Remove the bolt.

3 Remove the rear anti-lock brake sensor.


Installation

µ 1. Note:
Thoroughly clean the mounting surface.

Note:
Inspect the anti-lock brake sensor O-ring for damage; lightly lubricate the O-ring with SAE 75W-140 High Performance Rear Axle Lubricant F1TZ-19580-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.
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X Ranger, BII & NJ Chapter Moderator
2000 XLT Sport SC 3.0
2002 XLT Std Cab Long Bed 3.0
1989 Custom Std Cab Short Bed 2.9
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  #5  
Old 02-03-2005, 08:44 PM
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This is the procedure for PVH 4wd which I believe your truck will have.

Wheel Hub — With Pulse Vacuum Hublocks (PVH)


Special Service Tool(s)


Bearing Cup Puller
308-047 (T77F-1102-A)


Driver Handle
205-153 (T80T-4000-W)


Hub Puller
205-405


Hub Removal Clips
205-404


Impact Slide Hammer
307-003 (T59L-100-B)


Needle Bearing Replacer
205-402


Pitman Arm Puller
211-003 (T64P-53900-F)


Pusher
211-078 (T81P-3504-M2)


Seal Depth Set/Vacuum Test Cap
205-400


Seal Remover Guide
211-071 (T81P-3504-E)


Seal Replacer/CV Tester
205-399


Snap Ring Sleeve
205-403


Removal

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to «Section 204-00».

2. Remove the brake disc (1125). For additional information, refer to «Section 206-03».

µ 3. CAUTION:
Do not attempt to remove the hub lock assembly by prying at the hub lock legs. This can result in cracked or broken hub locks, which can cause vacuum leaks.

Install the Hub Removal Clips.

µ 4. Install the Hub Puller.

1 Align the puller with three slots in the hub lock.

2 Tighten the set screw finger-tight.

5. Using the slide hammer remove the hub lock.

µ 6. CAUTION:
Whenever the hub lock is removed the O-ring must be installed new. Failure to do so may allow vacuum leaks causing loss of four wheel drive operations and contamination of the hub lock vacuum system.

Remove and discard the wheel hub O-ring.

µ 7. Remove the brake disc shield (2K005).

l Remove the retaining bolts and the brake disc shield.

µ 8. CAUTION:
The axle shaft retainer ring must be installed new every time it is removed from the axle shaft. Failure to do so can cause damage to the wheel hub or the axle shaft.

Note:
Pull inward on the constant velocity joint outer shaft to aid in removal of the retainer ring.

Using a suitable pair of snap ring pliers remove the axle shaft retainer ring.

µ 9. Disconnect the vacuum hose and, if equipped, the ABS harness electrical connector.

µ 10. Disconnect the vacuum hose and, if equipped, four ABS harness retainers from the frame.

µ 11. Remove the tie-rod end castellated nut.

1 Remove and discard the cotter pin.

2 Remove the castellated nut.

µ 12. Using the special tool, disconnect the tie-rod end.

µ 13. Remove the three wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts.

µ 14. CAUTION:
If any dirt, metal shavings, moisture or corrosion is found in the hub or the hub bore in the knuckle, a new hub lock vacuum valve must be installed. For additional information, refer to «Vacuum Valve—Hub Lock» in this section.

CAUTION:
The wheel hub and bearing are not repairable. The bearing preload cannot be readjusted. If the bearing retaining nut on the wheel hub and bearing is removed, a new wheel hub and bearing must be installed.

CAUTION:
Do not allow the axle shaft to rest on the knuckle main seal. Failure to follow these instructions can damage the main seal.

Note:
The wheel hub and bearing is a slip-fit design and should not require a puller tool for removal.

Remove the wheel hub and bearing. Carefully pull the axle shaft out of the knuckle. Secure the axle shaft with mechanic's wire.

µ 15. CAUTION:
Whenever the wheel hub is removed the O-ring must be installed new. Failure to do so can allow vacuum leaks causing loss of four wheel drive operations and contamination of the hub lock vacuum system.

Remove the bearing/knuckle O-ring.

µ 16. CAUTION:
The thrust washer must never be reused. Install a new thrust washer whenever it is removed. Failure to do so can cause damage to the wheel hub and the axle shaft.

CAUTION:
Never loosen or remove the large nut on the wheel hub and bearing. The bearing preload is factory preset and is not adjustable. The wheel hub and bearing cannot be greased or repacked. Removal of the large nut can cause loss of wheel bearing preload and severe damage to the wheel hub and bearing.

Remove the thrust washer.

µ 17. Remove the needle bearing set.

1 Install the Bearing Cup Puller.

2 Install the Impact Slide Hammer.

3 Remove the caged needle bearing.

18. CAUTION:
The wheel hub is not repairable. Any attempt to repair the wheel hub can cause severe damage to the vehicle's suspension/front drive axle, loss of four wheel drive operations and wheel end contamination.

CAUTION:
If the wheel hub has excessive metal particles present in the axle shaft bore area the vehicle's vacuum system must be flushed out and tested for correct operation. Failure to do so will cause severe damage to the wheel end seals, hub lock vacuum valve and the vehicle's vacuum system.

CAUTION:
The wheel hub and bearing is not serviceable. The bearing preload cannot be readjusted. If the bearing retaining nut on the wheel hub and bearing is removed, the wheel hub and bearing must be installed new.

Note:
Inspect the bearing preload nut and bore slots to ensure that the slots are aligned. If the slots are not aligned or the slots are damaged, install a new wheel hub and bearing.

Clean and inspect the wheel hub.

l Inspect the axle shaft bore for scoring and excessive wear.

l Inspect the needle bearing bore for scoring, blueing and excessive wear.

l Inspect the wheel hub sealed bearing for excessive looseness or binding.
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X Ranger, BII & NJ Chapter Moderator
2000 XLT Sport SC 3.0
2002 XLT Std Cab Long Bed 3.0
1989 Custom Std Cab Short Bed 2.9
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  #6  
Old 02-03-2005, 08:44 PM
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Installation

1. Note:
The cage needle bearings set must be installed into the wheel hub and bearing with the stamped part number portion of the bearing race facing upward.

Coat the needle bearings with Ford High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A then insert the needle bearing set into the wheel hub.

µ 2. Install the needle bearing set.

1 Position the Needle Bearing Replacer onto the needle bearings.

2 Install the Driver Handle into the installation tool.

3 Using a hammer, tap on the Driver Handle until the Needle Bearing Replacer seats against the wheel hub and bearing.

µ 3. Verify that the needle bearing set is seated into the wheel hub and bearing.

l Measure the depth between the face of the wheel hub and bearing and the face of the needle bearing set.

µ 4. CAUTION:
Make sure that all eight locking tabs are seated into the groove in the wheel hub and bearing. Failure to do so can cause the thrust washer to come free from the wheel hub and bearing, allowing the bearing preload nut to back off, causing wheel hub bearing failure.

Install a new thrust washer.

1 Coat the needle bearings with Ford High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A.

2 Install the new thrust washer.

µ 5. Clean and inspect the knuckle main seal for wear or damage. If the seal is not worn or damaged, proceed to step 12. If a new seal must be installed, follow steps 6 through 11.

6. Note:
The knuckle main seal should only be removed from the knuckle if it is damaged or failed the leak test. The main seal cannot be reused once it has been removed from the knuckle.

Using a drift and a hammer, remove the main seal from the knuckle.

µ 7. Thoroughly clean the knuckle's main seal bore.

1 Clean the main seal bore.

2 Using the shop air supply, thoroughly flush the vacuum hose and the knuckle vacuum chambers.

8. Inspect the knuckle main seal bore for any damage, nicks, burrs or pitting.

9. Apply a thin coat of Ford High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A to the bore of the knuckle.

µ 10. Install the main seal.

1 Position the main seal into the special tool, then install the tools on the knuckle.

2 Using the special tools, install the seal until it seats against the knuckle.

11. Remove the special tools.

12. CAUTION:
Apply at least 3 grams of grease to the sealing surface of the main seal. Failure to do so can cause premature failure of the main seal, resulting in damage to the axle shaft or wheel knuckle, or loss of four-wheel-drive.

Apply a generous coat (3 grams or more) of Ford High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-15950-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A to the sealing faces of the main seal.

µ 13. Install a new bearing/knuckle O-ring and apply an even coat of Ford High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A to the O-ring.

14. CAUTION:
Use extreme care when positioning the wheel hub and bearing assembly to the knuckle. Do not damage the bearing/knuckle O-ring. Any damage to the O-ring will cause a vacuum leak preventing the front hub lock from engaging resulting in a loss of four wheel drive operations.

CAUTION:
Carefully install the axle shaft into the knuckle avoiding contact with the main seal.

Position the axle shaft and the wheel hub in the wheel knuckle.

µ 15. Install the three wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts.

µ 16. Connect the tie-rod end.

1 Position the tie-rod end.

2 Install the nut.

3 Install a new cotter pin.

µ 17. CAUTION:
The retainer ring must be installed with the steel band facing outward. Failure to do so can cause failure of the retainer ring, resulting in the loss of four wheel drive operations/wheel end contamination.

Note:
The seal remover guide is used as a pressing handle when used in conjunction with the Pusher and the Snap Ring Sleeve in this operation.

Install the retainer ring installation tool.

1 Place a new retainer ring, with the steel band facing outward, onto the tool and place the tool onto the axle shaft.

2 Position the seal installer tool onto the Snap Ring Sleeve.

3 Position the Seal Remover Guide onto the Snap Ring Sleeve.

µ 18. CAUTION:
Be sure the retaining ring seats in the shaft groove by pulling and pushing firmly on the axle shaft and tool. Listen for an audible "CLICK" as the ring seats. Failure to seat the retaining ring will result in axle main seal leaks, loss of four wheel drive operations and wheel end contamination.

Install the retainer ring.

1 Pull and hold the axle shaft into the wheel knuckle.

2 Simultaneously press on the tool until the retainer ring seats.

µ 19. Install a new wheel hub O-ring and apply an even coat of Ford High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A to the O-ring.

µ 20. Install the four vacuum/ABS harness retainers into the frame.

µ 21. Connect the vacuum hose, and if equipped, the ABS harness electrical connector.

µ 22. Install the brake disc shield.

µ 23. Note:
Always reuse hub locks if not cracked or broken.

Note:
It may be necessary to bounce the axle shaft and turn the wheel hub to align the hub lock splines.

Note:
To aid in hub lock installation, the hub lock should be in the engaged position while aligning it to the axle shaft and the hub and bearing.

Install the hub lock.

1 Position the hub lock onto the wheel hub using hand pressure, then using a rubber mallet, install the hub lock.

2 Inspect all of the hub lock locking arms to ensure that they are fully seated in the hub groove.

24. Perform the wheel-end vacuum leak test. For additional information, refer to «Vacuum Leak Test—Wheel-End» in this section.

25. Install the front brake disc. For additional information, refer to «Section 206-03».

26. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to «Section 204-04».
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X Ranger, BII & NJ Chapter Moderator
2000 XLT Sport SC 3.0
2002 XLT Std Cab Long Bed 3.0
1989 Custom Std Cab Short Bed 2.9
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  #7  
Old 02-12-2005, 12:29 AM
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Check your brake fluid level. When mine goes down to 1/2 full (Optimistic) the ABS light will come on and stay on with the first brake application.
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  #8  
Old 02-12-2005, 02:15 AM
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CowboyBilly9Mile CowboyBilly9Mile is offline
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I would replace the wheel bearing very, very soon. How long will it last? That's hard/impossible to guess since I don't know how bad it is nor how much you drive. But I have seen (and personally experienced) front wheel bearings fail, begin to grab the bearing race, and start to rotate the race on the spindle of vehicles. When this happens it wears the spindle, and in my experience it often takes a new spindle to make it right. The inner bearing race resting against the spindle does not constitute a wheel bearing. It can also be worse. Keep going and the heat will begin to weld things together. I saw this on a 69 Mustang and it was miserable taking the mess apart.

Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; 02-12-2005 at 02:19 AM.
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  #9  
Old 02-14-2005, 08:07 PM
deltablues deltablues is offline
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Thanks for all the info. I am hoping to fix the bearings this weekend. The insructions have been a big help Ken00. Everyone I talk to keeps telling me that if I don't fix it soon that I will be 3 wheeling it down the road. Sounds like fun but it sounds expensive for that kind of excitment.
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Old 02-14-2005, 08:07 PM
 
 
 
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