You can use any of the following on a standard FE block but I have heard that the studs will require getting the block align bored. I have seen 427 crossbolt mains on E-bay once in a while but then you would have get spacers made unless they came with the main caps and then bolts and then finally wouldn't you have to go to a machinist...???

 

The hard part is getting all the parts, $$$, machine work is only your time. With a Bridgeport mill and lathe in my "play area", parts can be made to fit. 482" in my future.

Carl....=o&o>....

 

I thought only a algin hone was needed for studs. Line bore is more agressive and to be done when changing maincaps.Used 427 maincaps go for around $150 on ebay for the center three and I sold a set a few months ago. Pro-gram eng sells steel crossbolt maincaps for the FE that are machine fit with no spacers for $325. Kind of like the Shelby block maincaps. I've seen lot's of FE crossbolt blocks and some castings have the crossbolt nubs even. 64 was a popular year for the crossbolt nubs and some of the later FT blocks also so take a look. The machine work for crossbolting runs $600-800 plus the caps. Spacers can be easily fabbed. Crossbolts are the same bolts used on the intake 3/8 x 16 x 2 5/8" slotted hex head. The crossbolt washers are the same washers used on the rocker arm assy's under the four bolts that hold them to the head. G.

 

Intresting reading, but how would you install Pro-Gram caps without spacers when each block main must be machined separately and the side clearance is unkown until the cap is torqued down? As far as 6-800 just to machine the block, spot face the outside and mill the inside, wow! It took two people to place a block on the Bridgeport, 2 hours to machine and drill for cross bolts. Measure and machine 6 spacers, another hour plus.

Carl....=o&o>....

 

I paid the $600 the first time I wanted to add cross bolts to my 406 block. I did all the machine myself the second time(428 service block).

Depending on how mis-matched the caps are is weather it will need bored or just honed. Sometimes moving the caps around(1,2,4) will get them closer. Once the caps are put in their place, make the spacers so that they will just snugly fit between block/cap. Perfect. Now torque and hone.

As for ProGram caps....I've never actually seen a set. You are making them sound like there are NO spacers, the cap is just wide?? How would you get it under the rail??? My service block I clearanced behind the rail, so the spacer has to be slid in from the side. There were no "nubs' to machine on one side, so the spacer has to be longer.

I had about 6 hrs in totally fitting caps. Now this takes into account finding all the tooling(impossible to do at work ), plus moving it around from machine to machine. I did the internal work on Bridgeport, the outside spotfacing on Horizontal.

 

Freightrain, you nailed it on moving caps around. With caps from different donors on another block, the cap bores at times can be way off. Once in a while they can fit within a few thousands of an inch in bore alignment. I would rather work with a complete set, original block and caps.

Carl....=o&o>....

 

Woops! I meant to say align hone if using ARP main studs. The thing I don't like about those thought is that you can't run your windage tray then, (or so I have heard). What do you guys think I should do to my 401.

 

You can run a windage tray, you must clearance the rear of the tray AND the oil pan to clear the stud(which protrudes below the pan rail). I modified mine as needed and it is in the motor now. If you are not anticipating long duration high RPM's, I would use the ARP main studs.

 

Putt, did you have yours align honed or is is really necessary on an FE block? I check my saddles with a straight edge and feeler gauge before I assembled the engine. Mine is currently runnin the factory type main bolts and unless they were ever replaced then they are of 1967 vintage. Don't the studs help prevent cap walk?

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but dont you need the bosses on either side of the main caps to be able to do the crossbolt conversion? I have a couple FE blocks out in the garage that do not have all the needed bosses.

 

Yep the Pro-gram caps have no spacers at all. www.pro-gram.com So if your block has the crossbolt nubs they get milled flat anyway. The maincaps are extended where the spacers go on the 427 caps. Check the site they have a tiny pic of them. That on top of the $325 price is quite a lump and yes I'll take the oem crossbolt caps anyday also.

Freightrain, man you are lucky to be able to do your own machine work! I have a good friend at a shop here but still is expensive with the discount but I'll take what I can get and he does very good work.

Annihlator, yep line hone sounds better LOL. Are you thinking of crossbolting?? Figure $750 + all done with 427 caps. Hey how about a capsaddle? There is a guy on another forum that is making a capsaddle that ties the three center mains together. Also has a template for to modify a windage tray to fit around it. ARP studs come with the kit. He did a test run and he's sold a few and using one on his supercharged 390. The kit is going for $265 with the studs but you need to shave your three center maincaps flat and align hone the crank bores. I'm going to try one when his next run is complete. It's kind of a cheaper alternative like a girdle or ladder bar but ties the three center mains with out using the pan rail and cheaper. These are not new technolgy and have been around for a while but this one has really been thought out and well designed. Should be interesting. G.

 

Rusty you don't need the bosses to crossbolt. You use a longer spacer with the OEM caps. G.

 

I not really thinking about crossbolting my engine, but am thinking about going to ARP Studs. The capsaddle sounds interesting. Can you give me some more info on this and where to go?

 

And that works just as good?

 

My block was decked to square, sonic checked, align honed and kissed by a redhead(my wife). :-) I think that's why I like it so much!!! Seriously, I think an align hone would be a good idea. However, if funds are tight you can always put the bearings(lubed) and crank in and see if it turns free. If it does, you are fine, if it has tight spots, get it align honed.