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Old 01-15-2005, 01:30 PM
kohlerjd110 kohlerjd110 is offline
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help can i change oil pan without lifting the motor

i have a rusted oil pan is it possible to change the pan with out lifting the motor. there seems to be enough clearance between the cross member and the pan ,but i'm not sure about the oil pickup tube. i have a 02 f-350 4wd with a 7.3 . thanks for the help in advance
-mike
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Old 01-15-2005, 02:25 PM
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The only way to change the pan is pulling the motor. My pan leaks bad but not bad enough to pull the motor.
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Old 01-15-2005, 05:46 PM
kohlerjd110 kohlerjd110 is offline
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a local shop quoted me $400 for the labor plus the pan. i think i might let them do it and save me the headach
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Old 01-15-2005, 06:19 PM
Frobozz Frobozz is offline
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There are a lot of Powerstroke trucks out there in the world with J-B Weld patches on their oil pans for this very reason - the engine's gotta come out (or at least, up quite a ways) to get it off of there.

Duncan
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Old 01-15-2005, 06:27 PM
kohlerjd110 kohlerjd110 is offline
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would j/b weld work? if so how would you apply it. i pluged the hole with a sheetmetal screw and covered it with hi-temp rtv. although i'm not sure it's going to work
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Old 01-15-2005, 06:50 PM
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Use a gas tank repair kit available at NAPA. That's how I patched mine. I'd like to tar and feather the idiot that designed that tin can of an excuse for an oil pan.
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Old 01-15-2005, 07:20 PM
vancouverpower vancouverpower is offline
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I have never heard of this problem. Should I throw some paint on the oil pan to keep it in good shape?
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Old 01-15-2005, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
I'd like to tar and feather the idiot that designed that tin can of an excuse for an oil pan.
Makes 2 of us!
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Old 01-15-2005, 08:44 PM
bug juice bug juice is offline
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Look up this company.
LA-CO Industries, INC.
1201 Pratt Boulevard
Elk Grove Village, IL 60007-5746

They have the LA-CO Epoxy tabs type "O".
The bonding action happens when it gets wet with oil. Mix white & black tabs together, to make a smooth gray concisty, roll between fingers like a putty and pukey up the hole.

Seen it used for aviation applications on engine gear cases (I know scarey, and I plead the 5 right now if anyone questions, you don't want to know what goes on in aviation, but have to use common sence) and it holds very well. It's a temporary repair for oil seepages. It will stick to the paint or better yet take a scottch brite wheel and remove the paint. I've seen it stay in place for 150-200 operating hours with temps much greater than your PSD will ever see on the oil pan and guys try to get it off to complete a permanent repair and they had a very tuff time removing it.
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:03 PM
kohlerjd110 kohlerjd110 is offline
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i had the shop do it and i came to about $700 including the parts and labor. so well see how long this pan will last.
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Old 01-29-2005, 11:31 PM
powerglyd powerglyd is offline
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oil pan leak

Is there any reason why you cannot weld it for a permanent fix. Im assuming it is accessable.
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Old 01-30-2005, 05:25 AM
blackf3504dr blackf3504dr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kohlerjd110
i had the shop do it and i came to about $700 including the parts and labor. so well see how long this pan will last.
That seems pretty reasoable to me ( plus easier than doing it yourself ) . Now make sure to keep a good coat of paint on the new pan !
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Old 01-30-2005, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerglyd
Is there any reason why you cannot weld it for a permanent fix. Im assuming it is accessable.
You could weld it providing you take the same precautions as you would welding on a 55 gallon drum. There's a lot of air space in there to fill up with flammable fumes that will ignite from the hot weld. Maybe hook up your argon bottle to the drain and fill the crankcase with inert gas before you start. Filling the engine with water is not really an option, obviously.
Ideas anyone?
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Old 01-30-2005, 09:34 AM
blackf3504dr blackf3504dr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
You could weld it providing you take the same precautions as you would welding on a 55 gallon drum. There's a lot of air space in there to fill up with flammable fumes that will ignite from the hot weld. Maybe hook up your argon bottle to the drain and fill the crankcase with inert gas before you start. Filling the engine with water is not really an option, obviously.
Ideas anyone?
If the drain plug is left out and the valve covers pulled it may allow enough ventilation through the motor . You could then "stich" weld it like a body panel to prevent warpping ...... Sounds good , doesn't it !??
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Old 01-30-2005, 02:28 PM
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i had to put a pan in my 94.5 it was seeping and i was crawling up a rocky dirt hill going up to a cell site rolled a rock under the truck and put a 5" gash in the pan and had no choice but to put a new one in. built some supports for the cross member, drilled the holes in it and welded the bolts on one side then took the plasma cutter to it. put the new oil pan in and bolted the cross memeber back in. but if yours isnt that bad, id jb or use thoose epoxy tabs bug juice was talking about. thoose sound better than the JB does, only problem with welding it is all the rotted out thin spots to burn through but definately keep a positive flow of argon, nitrogen or co2 flowing but keep it low enough that you dont get positive pressure in the pan then it will push your welds out at ya.
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Old 01-30-2005, 02:28 PM
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