...time flys....

 

definately easiest to saw off the OEM at the box grind 2 flats on the shaft to fit a DD to Toy spline U joint, add a centering bushing or bearing at the bottom of the column to keep the shaft centered. Mid Fifty sells the centering bushing. Ball bearing isn't required the shaft turns slowly. 1" thick Delrin works well as bushing if you want to make your own. Bore a 3/8 or 1/2 hole in the block where the shaft will go, and rough cut the outside. Make an arbor out of a bolt, mount the bolt into a drill press and round the outside with a course wood rasp until it is a slight press fit into the column sleeve. Once you are satified with the fit, take the bolt out and drill out the hole to fit the shaft. (A wood lathe or metal lathe can also be used to turn the bushing) Put the finished bushing in the column sleeve and fasten with a couple short metal screws.
Mid Fifty will buy your old cut off box (53-56 only) to use as a rebuild core. They don't want the shaft since they replace it with a new one and it's much cheaper to ship without it.

 

Dumb question; I bought a junkyard gear w/o hoses. Which port on the gear is the high pressure one?

 

The smaller one (16 mm) toward the front when mounted. The return is the 17mm one (I hope you got the fittings, the 17mm is not a standard fitting size and extremely difficult to come by). The return fitting has a plain tube coming out since the low pressure hose slips over it and is clamped with a hose clamp. If you don't have the fittings let me know and I can offer a couple suggestions on what to do.

 

Thanx. I had a hose guy track down a 17MM fitting for me. don't know where he got it but it fits! Ain't hot rodding fun?!

 

That's great, the only other issue some (myself included) have is interference/proximity between the return hose and header because of the way the OEM tube comes out of the fitting it directs the rubber hose towards the header. It depends on what engine and headers you use if it will be a concern. I went with a set of SS braided hoses with banjo style fittings from Gotta Show.

 

I'm OK there too. I am actually running my gear in a '53 Chevy pickup w/ a tricked out 235 straight 6 and Fenton cast iron headers. Tons of room for the gear. Fits a Chevy as nicely as it does a Phord!! It's all installed, ready to drive, just never knew which hose goes where. The truck has been king-cabbed (added 1' to frame, shortened bed 1' and lengthened the cab 2'), 2004R tranny, power windows (Phord motors grafted to Chebby mechanisms, cheap and easy conversion for any older car and infinitely better than any flimsy Chinese P/W conversion kit), power brakes (stock drums), power split bench seat, A/C, all the good stuff.

 

Any market for the steering box from a '59 F100? I have other misc. parts as well (radiator, drive shaft, shift column, door locks, etc....
Thanks!

 

Please be aware of where you are and be respectful if you want help. Doesn't fit as well as in a Ford, we don't have to notch or modify our frame. I hope you have boxed the frame on the inside of that mount to put the strength back in, that's a pretty deep notch. I would have put an inverted U shaped bridge on the frame over the pitman shaft so the frame couldn't bend there.

 

You might advertise the box over on the HAMB, Early Hot Rod builders like them.
Put the rest of the parts in the classifieds here. There's a guy here who has a thread going about cooling issues on his 55 that might have an interest in your radiator.

 

Sorry no offense intended. I also cartooned the Chevrolet name as you might have noticed so was shooting for equal opportunity humor. I like all cars, no bias for or against vintage Chevrolet, Ford, Chrysler, etc. Except I will never buy another GM or Chrysler product as long as they are owned by the Marxist government. Warning taken, I will eliminate humor from future communiications.

And the gear does go into the Chevrolet Advance Design very easily. Just had to make a simple bracket that sits on top of the frame, gear bolts on in stock Chevy postion, no frame cutting required. The original Chevy gear did not penetrate the frame and neither does this one. I am a degreed mechanical engineer w/ 40 years experience so I usually make rational design decisions. Usually, not always but so far I have survived my designs!

 

OK, looked like that frame notch had been cut in. My apologies in return! That plumbing on the manifold looks interesting?

 

Optical dillusion!! That is a Clifford manifold (I think he makes Ford straight manifolds too). It is a pretty neat piece. Nice aluminum casting that polishes up well, has a universal top to which can be bolted a number of carburetor adaptors. I run a 350cfm Holley vacuum secondary 4-bbl. Those copper pipes go to another great feature; the manifold has a plenum heater for tame steet performance. It can be piped for hot water or as in my case, exhaust X-over. The split Fenton cast iron headers (nostalgia 50s hot rod item) had bosses to dril,l tap, and screw the other ends of the heat riser tubes into.

 

Thanks Ax!! Appreciate the guidance.

 

Will a power steering box from a 94 4runner SR5 work?