What type of rivets are used in the vent windows of 1950 Ford Trucks? They appear to be something like a tinners rivet or a solid head rivet.

 

I'm not familiar with the F1 setup, as I have a 56.
But, on the chance that they are similar, are you talking about the rivet thru the Vent Window Latch Handle? Or the rivets thru the hinges and frame?

 

I am looking at the rivets that hold the hinge so the vent can pivot and the rivets that hold the "u" shaped channel that the handle for the vent window is mounted to. I need to mount the handle with "U" shaped channel back to the vent window frame.

 

Unless you have a press with the right tooling I think you'll have a real problem trying to re-rivet that part. I guess you might have luck with a specially shaped punch and hammer and a lot of practice to find an effective technique to form it with the right amount of tightness, but then you'll need it chromed after. Probably cheaper to buy a replacement unit.

 

I looked for a replacement and couldn't find one. I am going to have to fix what I have. The hinge can be put together at the top with a normal rivet there is plenty of room. The problem is the push buton. Not a lot of room to play I need something to hold it in that is short.

 

Chris - You could always try pop rivets. They are the easiest, but they aren't very strong. Still, they might work.
A hollow rivet is another option, but special tools are needed to squeeze and upset the hollow end properly.
A solid aluminum rivet could be upset by hand using an air hammer and something as an anvil. This method is commonplace in aerospace and aircraft work and is do-able at home. The only sources I know for the rivets are specialty fastener companies. Try a search for MS20470 rivets to find a supplier. Get MS20470AD5-4 rivets(*). They will be a little longer than you need, will squeeze easily, be strong enough and you can grind down the butt end to the height that works after they are set. I can help with more specific info on installation, if you haven't used this type of rivet before and go this way.
BTW, The PO had removed the vent lock handles on my 56. When I replaced them, I found out that they are swaged on (thru the frame and channel) with a stud butt (parent to the handle housing) being upset inside the channel. I was unable to get the handle stud to upset properly. It is steel and very hard. I wound up wire brushing everything well, placing it in the channel and clamping it, then MIG welding the stud end to the channel with tack welds. I then ground the welds down for clearance to the glass. Worked great. Not replaceable though.

(*) NOTE: I'm guessing on the diameter you will need. Measure the holes. A "5" is a .156/.160 dia. If your rivet holes are smaller, I would order 5's and drill the holes out to .160 dia. If larger: 6 = .187. That part number would be MS20470AD6-4. The 4 is the grip length in 1/16ths. Longer is better. You can trim the rivet down to the needed length.

 

Chris,

There are similar rivets in a 53 door. They are a pain in the rear, but you can whip it. Head to a good hardware store with a dollar in your pocket and you'll find a number of different tinner rivets that are close enuigh to correct. Real cheap so grab a half dozen likely candidates. Get something soft enough so you don't have to wail on it to get it set. I don't think you'll have a problem finding one, but yell with a diameter and I or someone here can help you out if needed. The trick is to get something that just barely fits, so a moderate tap will make it tight. Pop rivet heads were too large for what I was doing.

 

Pop Rivet heads are to big for mine also. I am tempted to use a clear silicone adhesive to hold it in. The glass channel fits tight around the "u" shape channel and the glass would hold it down.

 

I bought a bunch of hollow or tubular rivets from McMaster-Carr when I was attepmting to rework my '56 wing windows and some other door parts. Try www.mcmaster.com and search for "rivet". As I remember, I had to buy packs of 100 rivets, but they aren't terribly expensive and that way you have lots to practice with. Tubular rivets are hard to upset properly without the correct tooling, I gave up and bought the assemblies from Sacramento Vintage. They also have the earlier truck window parts too.

 

The tubular or Tinners rivet were actually easy to install.

1. I placed the pieces on the anvil part of my vice.
2. Put the rivets through the holes.
3. Used a large tip center punch to spread out the head. This thing is about 3/4" OD. Hit the rivet once that is all it took.
4. Used a punch to flatten out the edges of the rivet.
5. Painted the frame and you cannot tell I ever had it apart.

Heck I might be able to fix another set with the remaining pieces and my newly acquired knowledge.