bumpers
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you really do NOT want to pull with a bumper hitch/ball that drops that much! the leverage would pry the bolts so easily that i would be scared to put much more than an ATV trailer on it
BUT if you wanna do it try RanchHand they have a website or go to your local welding shop, they can whip something up for ya pretty quick
-cutts-
BUT if you wanna do it try RanchHand they have a website or go to your local welding shop, they can whip something up for ya pretty quick
-cutts-
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#8
Thanks for the info .And yes pro is right its not for towing its for legallity.Here in the lovely state of PA we mest be 30'' from the ground to be legall. Oh and by the way all these sites are of bumpers (black or chrome) I would like stainless steel THANKS
Last edited by f150_514ci; 12-30-2004 at 07:33 PM.
#9
> Here in the lovely state of PA we mest be 30'' from the ground to be legall.
My weak springed stock 1971 F-100 4x4 is 31" from the frame to the ground in the rear, before the air springs ... glad I live in GA!
Too bad you can't get a bumper that rises up and down on hydraulics.
On some trucks (mostly flat beds or class 8) that have to have submarine bars, but, still need to go off road, the rear bars/bumpers telescope up and down and secure with bolts or hitch pins. Someone on this site designed one for his flatbed a while ago out of 1/4 steel.
I installed my trailer wiring and socket behind my trailer hitch so it would not be taken off by things off-road or by the people like the moron that hit my 10" drop hitch while I was stopped at a light. Being a good 18"-20" off the ground I imagine it did some damage to his ricer.
My weak springed stock 1971 F-100 4x4 is 31" from the frame to the ground in the rear, before the air springs ... glad I live in GA!
Too bad you can't get a bumper that rises up and down on hydraulics.
On some trucks (mostly flat beds or class 8) that have to have submarine bars, but, still need to go off road, the rear bars/bumpers telescope up and down and secure with bolts or hitch pins. Someone on this site designed one for his flatbed a while ago out of 1/4 steel.
I installed my trailer wiring and socket behind my trailer hitch so it would not be taken off by things off-road or by the people like the moron that hit my 10" drop hitch while I was stopped at a light. Being a good 18"-20" off the ground I imagine it did some damage to his ricer.
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> whoa, wait...you live in GA? what part? i never knew this!
Joking? Atlanta, right off I-285s.
>removable by way of a couple of trailer hitch pins
What is really cool is having it on lift gate springs so you have to step down on it to extend it so it retracts automatically. Hardly ever see that, but, its a nice touch. Hydraulics would be better, maybe so you can crush something
Joking? Atlanta, right off I-285s.
>removable by way of a couple of trailer hitch pins
What is really cool is having it on lift gate springs so you have to step down on it to extend it so it retracts automatically. Hardly ever see that, but, its a nice touch. Hydraulics would be better, maybe so you can crush something
#12
Originally Posted by f150_514ci
Thanks for the info .And yes pro is right its not for towing its for legallity.Here in the lovely state of PA we mest be 30'' from the ground to be legall. Oh and by the way all these sites are of bumpers (black or chrome) I would like stainless steel THANKS
let me know if you can get away with it though
#13
Originally Posted by bremen242
however, if you read the fine print; if you have a drop bumper, they measure it from the ground to the frame.
let me know if you can get away with it though
let me know if you can get away with it though
#14
Originally Posted by rebocardo
> whoa, wait...you live in GA? what part? i never knew this!
Joking? Atlanta, right off I-285s.
Joking? Atlanta, right off I-285s.
i think here in Ga there are lift laws but they really only hassle you if your headlights are higher than they like (42" I wanna say!)
-cutts-