Unless there is a bottoming issue, stiffening springs will only make for a harder ride and require heavier shock valving to control, making the ride stiffer yet. You want to use the softest spring that doesn't bottom out easily, and control/augment springing with swaybar. Also try to watch unsprung weight, overly stiff sidewall tires. I don't expect anyone here is using 6 ply rated truck tires?
Try to keep in mind the fact that you are working with a SYSTEM, being overly concerned about maximzing one component and ignoring the rest may be counter productive. The best 1000 watt amp isn't going to make an OEM radio and speakers sound as good or better than a more modest amp, well matched HU and good component speakers.

 

"Try to keep in mind the fact that you are working with a SYSTEM, being overly concerned about maximizing one component and ignoring the rest may be counter productive. The best 1000 watt amp isn't going to make an OEM radio and speakers sound as good or better than a more modest amp, well matched HU and good component speakers."

You're correct, and try to keep in mind why you have a well matched HU and good component speakers? Perhaps because somebody emailed and called every damn buddy he knew, that knows anything about audio to be sure you didn't waste your money. You got the specific recommendations you wanted, and I got some smoke. Please don't lecture me anymore unless you've got some meaningful advice.

 

Chill FF. I wasn't lecturing you personally or anyone in particular at all, but I can now see how using a stereo as a metaphor was probably a bad choice, sorry.
I wish I could give you more "meaningful advice" but without all the specifics on your vehicle the best anyone can do is provide guidelines. I don't know anyone who has any better info than what has already been presented, no one I know of is road racing hot rods based on fullsized american cars other than a few very highly modified (suspension wise) late model Camaros and Mustangs much less mid fifties pickups to even ask for recommendations. If you were local or wanted to meet me in Peru IN or Topeka KS when we're there later this summer, or even at Knoxville if we don't have a scheduling conflict I would be glad to take your truck for a spin to get a better feel for what it might need. Like you said you're not trying to turn an F100 into a Formula 1, you're not going to race it, you just want it to be some better better than it is, so finding THE best part isn't that critical. Chrysler products were never known for outstanding handling, even the Viper is better in a straight line than carving corners (I know I teach performance driving to the local Viper club here, and my Miata will outcorner one easily) and the Volare wasn't even close to being a high performance driving machine so I'm quite sure that you will make a major difference going to ANY swaybar that's heavier than the one you have now. I don't think you can get too stiff with any practical sized bar, so just buy the biggest one you can find and/or are willing to spend the money on, it will work just fine. The better shocks alone are going to make a noticable change. Once you've picked and installed your front bar and new shocks, and get a feel for where you are handling and ride wise, we can work on the rear.
Truthfully I don't have any idea what I'm going to be doing for bars in my own truck right now, since I haven't even driven it with a decent steering box in it yet, but when the time comes I'll just make a slightly informed guess it's not that critical for the street. I spend WAY too much time and money tweaking the race car to get it thru an AX course <.01 sec quicker, I just want the truck to handle decently and safely and be comfortable enough to spend up to 22 hrs straight behind the wheel.

 

I have seen traction bars on various vehicles both for the street and off-road. I understand that they prevent wheel hop, but I don't really understand how they do that and in the type of aplication they should be used. Can anyone explain them for me?

 

Sure, traction bars are almost a must with any V-8 conversion, big tires and heavy foot on our trucks with parallel leaf suspension. When you launch hard, the rear axle tries to rotate in the opposite direction as the tires. The front 1/2 of the leaf springs twist in an S curve from this rotation until the tires break loose then they snap back straight. Because the axle can now twist again the tires get less power and more grip twisting the spring again. This repeats over and over causing the rear wheels to begin hopping which agravates the situation until it gets quite violent, enough to possibly break an axle or gear or even a driveshaft. There are a number of different design traction bars. Some are designed to help use the rotational force to lift the front end, adding more weight to the rear, and others are designed to simply stiffen the front section of the spring to eliminate the twist. They all have pros and cons that will need to be considered in deciding if you need them and what type are best suited for you if you do.