Hi all This is my first time posting. It seems the 91-9? explorer have very similar problems. here's mine.

#1 transmission a4ld. Gets stuck in lock-up. had tranny fluid changed which it needed. still stuck in lockup. I was able to manually shift into neutral and slow or stop truck and it would be fine. it has since fixed itself (probably the fluid). I am still planning a valve box rebuild. Its an expensive thing and I hope it helps or fixes it.

# 2 cruise didn't work then it did now it doesn't Help!!!

# 3 4x4 electronic used to engage and low. now it doesn't
I like the truck just wish the ghosts would leave it.

any help is very appreciated.
Thanks in advance

 

Wenever you work on your truck always start with the simple stuff first. It doesnt get any simpler than pulling trouble codes. Hook up your scanner & see if you get a code such as 652, "modulated lock up solenoid circuit failure" or whatever, and go from there.

 

Thank you 87 XLT. Your advice is avery good place to start. I Didn't know if i'd get a response so I will give you more detail. Sorry about being remiss. I scanned it first thing when it was begining this. "no trouble codes" I had more than 50 starts since the last battery replacement. Also I took it to AA__0 and Mr Transmm____n. both said a probable rebuild on the tranny and both scanned for diag with nocaodes as well. My gut says somehow these may be interelated issues. I've been wrong before and will be wrong again. anyway I do work on my trucks. except I'm not good with tranny's as they are difficult. I did the modulator valve because a $20 part in an attempt to diag is a deal. recent developments ...... still no 4X4, or cruise but the lockup is gone. I'm probably still gonna have the valve body redone. 100k on it.

 

I don't recall the details, but I recall that, one cause of a sticky lockup clutch was crud build up in one area (a spring or something) of the valve body. If you can get a hold of a good manual, you might try removing and cleaning the valve body. I wouldn't be surprised if it helps.

Sounds like you have a loose connection (most likely electrical but possibly vacuum) in the cruise control.

A lot of the time, 4x4 shifting problems are from a dirty shift motor.

 

thanks mrshorty I'm going to get the vavle body rebuilt that should help and I recommend tranny fluid monitoring and changeing on a mainteneace schedule.

Cruise problem seems difficult to find. I took out the mechanism and applied vacuum after the set/accel valves.. no vac leaks.. it worked. it's not engaging. switch in steering wheel or brake switch check is next. anyone know where the brains of the servo are located and could the vss be involved for 4x4 and cruise? as well as switching the OD lock up?

 

Wish I could say the same for my wife, but every car & truck that i have owned has had a manual trans. So I dont know much about these idiot/PITA automatics.
I have heard the same thing that mrshorty mentioned about sludge builup causing the lockup solenoid to stick.

As far as your cruise control is concerned, take a look at the brake pedal arm, if you find a vacuum hose attached, you have the old style CC setup. But if theres no vac hose you have the 1992 & newer setup. If you have the new desgn this link- www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov2002/techtips.cfm - a GOOD wiring diagram and a VOM will make troubleshooting the CC very simple.

When it comes to wiring diagrams your best bet is the Ford "Electrical & vacuum troubleshooting manual" About 30 bucks at www.helminc.com

I have these manuals for my 87 Ranger & 95 Taurus & for troubleshooting electrical problems they are worth their weight in gold.

BTW, since you did'nt get a VSS trouble code, I think you can rule that out.

Keep us posted on your progress & good luck with it.

 

Here is an update! btw thanks for the input. I can tell you currently, vavle body rebuild did wonders and transmission seems tight! as in switching gears fine.
The 4WD is up and off roading. Checked fluid, fine, cleaned motor and actuating began again. hi and lo. Ill keep you up on Cruise. Thanks again.

 

Here's a link I found http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/ccmain.html It covers one style of Ford Cruise control that was used in the '80's and early '90's. In any case, it might give you some help in organizing your diagnosis of the cruise.

 

MrShorty Thanks. I have alot of this information in my haynes manual but it never talked about a diagnosis procedure just Self tests. I'll give it a try and let you know. 87XLT gave me a nice link as well. (SEE ABOVE) just wanted to say thanks again. I needed some guidance and a push in the right direction. I'll be in touch.

 

Hey there guru's just an update and a few questions. I got home and started checking the cruise and the eec iv tests didn't go so well. The instructions I thought said to leave the trigger disconnects for the koeo tests. The test light stayed on. so I shorted the trigger and it went into diag mode. I know I did something wrong. I was able to test the servo buy applying power and shorting the vent/vac. It works. onto the amp if I can find it. I also tried te koer test but I screwed that up to and it didn't perform as per instructions. Couldn't get under the dash cuz it was dark buy now but I may try tonight. wish i didn't screw up the eec tests.
Many thanks and I'll keep you updated.

 

Sounds like you need some new instructions for the EEC-IV self-tests. I like the set at www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html. Look under "tests". Note that it says to have the trigger/jumper wire hooked up before turning the key on (for KOEO test) or starting the engine (for KOER test).

 

You know I found a thing at dalidesign that suggested I have eec controlled cruise and I don't think I do. (the eec test for cruise wont work) I also should remember that I did a scan (free at advance discount auto with thier scanner). and there were no codes. and the tranny places I went to checked them as well no codes. so it is probably my rings on the steering wheel or the amplifier under the dash. (cover me I'm goin in)<[:-{()>

 

Hey dacrazyman,

You probably know this by now, but the cruise control amplifier is mounted above the glove box under the dash. Just open the glove box, squeeze the sides together, and let everything drop. Look up inside and you'll see a green box held in with two 7mm screws via a bracket.

I got a replacement amp from the salvage yard for 20 bucks. I don't remember the dealer price, but it was triple digit. It works great now. I had followed the same link that Mrshorty provided above, except I had the luxury of stealing an amp from my sisters Explorer. It worked, so I went to a salvage yard and got another one. If you do this, make sure you can return it if it's faulty too.

Good luck.

 

Hey SJwoody I found the Amp. I was doing some testing for all interested and had to pull the steering wheel to clean the brushes. The switches weren't getting there. I thought this would solve the problem. No dice. I'm going to try and find an amp maybe the junk yard. I will probably try the switch (brake switch) if I can return that as well. I did find, after the meter troublshoot, that the ground wire to frame was about 25 ohms. Not sure if this is the issue but I'm working it out. Thanks for the reply Sjwoody I'll keep you informed on my persuits.