I'm going to try to find them in a fluorosilicone. Used in jet aircraft fuel systems.
SpringerPop
__________________ -Marv- one of the Brotherhood
"Some of us pride ourselves on the money we've spent on our trucks,
and some of us on what we have NOT"
2000 F350 Lariat 7.3,A/T,CC,LB,4X4,SRW, CCV, Sonnax/springs, Dahl, spin-on trans filter, coolant filter, 6637 & cover, bypass oil, HPX. Email SpringerPop
Last edited by SpringerPop; 12-17-2004 at 02:06 PM.
Better late then never! Mabee mine will last a reasonable amount of time!
By the way folks it is a pretty simple job took me about 30 minutes to accomplish.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpringerPop
To EDIT my post, #11, above:
Danco customer service tells me that their o-rings are not made of buna-N, but plain 'ol buna, which is not the best choice for fuel applications. I will be getting some different o-rings through McMaster-Carr that are designed to better stand up to fuel.
Thought I better alert you all so I don't lead you down the wrong path.
SpringerPop
This is actually a pretty straightforward fix-it-yourself project. It should take you about an hour after you get the parts and proper tools.
Before you change anything, turn on your key to pressurize the system. Locate the small, yellow-handled fuel filter water drain valve on the firewall side of the fuel filter. Exercise this valve a half dozen times. Maybe you'll get lucky and blow out the cause of the leak. Otherwise:
You need:
1. A #20 Torx driver socket for 1/4 inch drive.
2. A 1/4 inch ratchet
3. From Home Depot's plumbing department, two #90 Danco o-rings. If you don't have a H-D local to you, they're 1/2" od, 1/4" id, 1/8" material, available from most hardware stores.
Optional: Proper size socket and ratchet for removing the "Powerstroke" plastic cover from the top-front of your engine.
For ease, remove the "Powerstroke" cover.
Locate that yellow valve handle at the side closest to the firewall. This is the drain valve. Remember how the pieces are oriented for later re-assembly. Better yet, take a digital picture. There are four #20 Torx screws holding the valve to the filter body. Using the driver socket and ratchet, remove the four screws. Using a toothpick, pry the two little yellow o-rings out of where they fit. Replace them with the two you bought. Lube the threads on the four screws. Re-assemble and check for leaks. Replace the Powerstroke cover.
Dat's all, folks.
SpringerPop
After looking everywhere for the fix for my leak. I have found it here. Thanks SpringerPop
Where in CA are you located. I'm in the SFValley, Northeast of Los Angeles.
Pop
__________________ -Marv- one of the Brotherhood
"Some of us pride ourselves on the money we've spent on our trucks,
and some of us on what we have NOT"
2000 F350 Lariat 7.3,A/T,CC,LB,4X4,SRW, CCV, Sonnax/springs, Dahl, spin-on trans filter, coolant filter, 6637 & cover, bypass oil, HPX. Email SpringerPop
From McMasterCarr: (1/4" ID X 1/2" OD X 1/8" thick)
Viton O-ring are $5.46 for pack of 25 (PN# 9464K118)
and Buna-N O-rings are $4.00 for pack of 100 (PN# 9452K183)
There are other materials too, just search for "O-ring" on thier website......... http://www.mcmaster.com/
Not sure about shipping, I think they are reasonable? Usually UPS ground.
We have McMasterCarr locally here in Atlanta. So, I can go pick them up myself.
Last edited by hsus2k; 10-17-2006 at 01:09 PM.
Reason: misspelled
I got the viton's for the CPS from them. At that price, I can afford to give away the spares to other FTE "Supporters".
Pop
__________________ -Marv- one of the Brotherhood
"Some of us pride ourselves on the money we've spent on our trucks,
and some of us on what we have NOT"
2000 F350 Lariat 7.3,A/T,CC,LB,4X4,SRW, CCV, Sonnax/springs, Dahl, spin-on trans filter, coolant filter, 6637 & cover, bypass oil, HPX. Email SpringerPop
Since this last cold weather, I have notice my truck leaking diesel fuel. Looked underneath the truck and it is dripping down from the engine and the entire area around the oil pan is wet with fuel, more so on the passenger side than the other. Checked under the hood and there was fuel in the valley below the filter. Does this sound like the same type leak from the valve?
I got the opportunity to replace them twice Friday.. Desiced to fix the problem earyl Fri, went to a parts store, they had a pack of viton o rings, bought it, only one o ring, replaced it and turned the good the other way..
Came home, saw the box from McMaster, took it back to the shop did it again,,, only 45 minutes.. Not bad for a "wood butcher"..
Unless you are putting alot of water in your tank it is mostly diesel (aka liquid Gold). I let mine go for about a week waiting on the orings and it was poring when I got it fixed.
I wouldn't wait too long, it could get worse, maybe!!
I got one o-ring from a local parts store, thought two were in it, just reversed the lower one.
Mine came pretty fast, some people have said get them from HD??
Before you change anything, turn on your key to pressurize the system. Locate the small, yellow-handled fuel filter water drain valve on the firewall side of the fuel filter. Exercise this valve a half dozen times. Maybe you'll get lucky and blow out the cause of the leak.
SpringerPop
This is all I had to do to fix the problem, which was lucky for me, because none opf the local parts store had the part and the dealer wants $66 bucks, because "we recomend you change the whole valve".
Thanks everyone at FTE you're always right on the money!
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