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OK guys I'm building a 49-53 flathead motor. I tried to check the ID numbers on it but they where gone. I read in time when this motors was rebuilt the numbers was sometimes removed. Where the ID numbers should be there is BB-3 then a star stamp. I quess it's some kind of rebuild # . Anyway what I need is some info on a good rebuild kit. Or a name of a good company to get in touch with. All I'm looking for out of this motor is to have a good run engine and the sound to match. If this stock motor turns up bad then I've got a friend who has a 60 over flathead block I could have. Would this motor be worth getting and building or would a 60 over flathead run out. Need some help with this. What would any of you all do in this case.
My first choice for parts is Red's Headers in Fort Bragg, CA - they're terrific, knowledgable people who are more than willing to answer questions and don't care if you're rebuilding stock or extreme hotrodding. They're cool with all of it.
Grab any good flathead you can as long as your storage space allows. 60 over is hardly worn in - flatheads have a lot of meat between cylinders and will usually take at least 125 over before they get thin. Some will go more.
Thanks alot mtflat. You have helped my out with your answers more times than anyone.. I think I'm just going to email you a whole list of questions and let you send it back to me. LOL.. No really thanks for the info, this is the only way I can learn something I don't know. One more thing though. That 60 over flatty? My stock radiator it should keep the motor from running hot shouldn't it. I know these motors are bad to get hot what all should I do to keep this from happening besides making sure everything is good and open.
You're welcome I'm sure. I was asking those same questions about 6 years ago when I bought my '48 F1 with a flathead and got online service about the same time. Go ahead and ask away - I owe the brotherhood if you know what I mean!
If you're using the 8BA in your '46 you won't have any trouble. Make sure the block is clean - even go to the trouble of digging around in the waterjacket with wire. Make sure there is no left over scale or rust or casting sand left in your block. This is the single biggest problem in overheating.
Your radiator in a '46 truck is the same as in the late series trucks - I have a '46 rad in my shop and the only difference is the absence of a drain ****. Otherwise they're identical. The system holds nearly 5 gallons of coolant. Keep the coolant level about 2-3 inches below the cap - this gives the coolant room to expand in the top tank. When you do get it together, use 180* thermostats. Make sure the fins and core of the radiator is clean. Make sure your timing is correct and you shouldn't have any problems with it running hot.
I've put over 50,000 miles on my truck during the last 3.5 years driving from Montana to Ohio and Colorado to Canada - mostly in the mountains but also for 24 hours at a stretch across the plains. If you follow the above advice it should never overheat. Some of the car radiators are marginal, but the trucks have an extra capacity for abuse built in.
Have you made sure it's not cracked between valve seats & cylinders? Also, mtflat is correct, they'll overbore easily. I bored mine 3/16 over & used Merc crank, with different cam it ran real strong. No problems with overheating, it was in a 51 Ford Victoria.
2012 F-150 XLT SC Ecoboost Tuxedo Black 6.5' bed 4x4
I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me. Phillipians 4:13
Thanks alot guys for your help. I'm going to be taking the motor apart this weekend. Me, dad, and one of his buddys are going to do it or should I say I'm doing it and there going to be making sure I do it right. With their know how and the info I get from you guys I'm sure I'll have a good running motor. If this one is bad at least I still have a 60 over flatty for back-up. Thanks again.
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