anyone? Id really like to get some information so i dont try to install it this weekend without be positive.

 

No idea.....Im getting my Viper alarm and keyless entry system put on next week. Didnt want to try to put the actuators on by myself.

 

Hi, I sent you a private message. Just got in from a short trip up to Las Vegas.
I don't actually live at the computer, at least not all the time...
Hope the private message answers your questions, but if not, don't hesitate to ask. For anyone else interested, I will answer any install related questions that I can. Remember, I didn't 'hack' into any of the factory wiring, and by the time I was finished, I have keyless door locks, siren (works with door chirp, and as panic) keyless tailgate lock, keyless entry to the front of my fold-a-cover. I used two relays that didn't come with the kit, Wrecking yard pulls, I got three for five bucks, but you can buy the relays for less that ten bucks at most autoparts stores. Or for about two bucks apiece on line. I used one relay for the siren chirp, another for the keyless entry to the Tonneau. No relays needed for stock install, execpt possibly the horn. A siren from a pick-a-part or wrecking yard is usually about two-five dollars, depending on who pulls it. It makes the chirp sound like an alarm. But you can use the horn.
For anyone else doing this exact swap, Don't use the unlock module that comes with the kit. Don't bother with the five wires. Just use the two wire installation, and the keyless unlock module. I wasted an afternoon till I figured that out.
Extra credit note. On some of the STX trucks, when you pull off the drivers door panel, One actuator is already there. This means the dealership put in a 'security device' that he tried to sell you for several hundred dollars. On those trucks, not only don't have to add one acutator, you might be lucky enough to have the two 40 amp relays under the drivers door sill. Free bonus, to make up for the cheesy dealership wiring.

Chris

 

I cant thank you enough... I appreciate you taking your time to help me!

 

Stand by for boring long winded "How to". Don't complain, you asked for it.
Chris

 

LOL... bring it on! I'm ready for it!

 

This is a method of getting lots of power into the cab for your actuators, module and anything else you want to add. It doesn’t rely on any of the factory wiring. No warrenty beefs. It is very primitive. It works.
To get key on power use the following relay method.
This is to get hot and key on power under your dash without cutting anything. Do it any way you like, but this is easy and works.
Materials.
8 foot, Ten gauge wire (about 2-3 bucks.)
4-5 foot 14-16 gauge wire.
30 amp rated Fuse holder.
15-20 amp blade fuse.
Some ten gauge wire connectors, crimp or solder. Or do like I do and crimp, then solder.
Ice pick, or something like it.
Optional but recommended, black wire corrugated cover. ¼ inch works, bigger works.
1.09 to 7.00 depending on where you buy it.
Wire tie’s. About a dozen.
Common 4 pin relay. 5 pin works, just don’t use 87a terminal.

Attach Ten Gauge Wire to fuse holder.
Don’t put the fuse in it yet.
Attach fuse holder to positive battery terminal.
Use yellow ten gauge type connector, put it around 8mm bolt that secures the battery cable.
Have the fuse end at the battery. Easy to find.
Lace the wire along the cable, then along the fire wall. Cover with black ¼ corrugated tube.
If you do this neatly, it looks stock. Your results may vary.
Locate black plug bigger than a silver dollar located on the firewall, above where the pedals are.
You find it on the engine side, the other side is under the black floor insulation.
Pop it out and examine it. Hard black plastic, held in by a rim.
Put a hole in it big enough for the ten gauge wire to pass through.
Push the ice pick though the insulation that is under the black plug.
Thread wire through black plug, be sure it’s going the right direction, then through insulation, into the cab. A helper is nice, but you can do it by yourself, kneeling on the ground, looking up into the cab.
I like to remove the kick panel, under the steering wheel. 2 8mm bolts.
You now have plenty of always hot 12 volt high amp power under your dash.
For key-on power, I used relay R05 in the fuse box, pushing a blade connector (box of assorted ones cost about 4 bucks) into the bottom slot. (Hot when key is on, only). You can find a slot that’s only hot when key is on by using a probe light, a Volt ohm meter, or something similar.
NOTE; this is for very minimal power, you just want the key-on power from here.
Run this wire from fuse box area to where you mount the module and relay. You use a relay so that you only need a very small amount of power from the fuse box. Under an amp.
Hook the blade that is hot to 14-16 gauge wire you run to number 86 terminal on relay.
Run a wire from 85 terminal to ground. Lots of good grounds under the dash, and by the emergency brake.
Number 30 is hooked to the ten gauge power wire that you ran into the cab.
Number 87 is hooked to the key-on power connection on the keyless module. Yellow wire.
When a small amount of power comes into 86, it connects 30 to 87.
So with a very small amount of power from the fuse box, you can send much more power to the module.
This is the key-on connection. Yellow wire.
When key is on, a tiny amount of power flows from the fuse box connection, which clicks the relay, allowing more power to flow from your always hot 10 gauge wire.
You also tap the always hot 10 gauge wire for the basic power for the keyless entry. Red wire.
You can Velcro or whatever the relay near the module.
Yes, you can do without the relay if you find a good hot wire and tap into it. Be sure it is hot only when key is on, not on accessory. And not always hot.
This is a link to a wonderful site on using relays.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-qpzMLfR...ech/kb326.html
section labeled;
Converting A Positive Trigger To A Higher Current Positive Output

 

So now that we have power, using my primitive method or any other method you want, lets look at the actuators. They have a lock/unlock wire. Green and blue. I have six around here, and some use green to lock, others use blue. one set is red and yellow.

Visualize one wire running from one actuator to the other. Wire comes from drivers actuator and runs to same color on passenger actuator.

Do that for both wires.

You connect the two actuators together with the blue and green wires running beside each other.

Use good wire, about 14-16 gauge. Then you attach the blue/black wire to the blue(?) wire and the green/black wire to the green wire. You can run the wires separately meeting at the module, or you can just use one run of wire, and strip and attach the module wires wherever you like. When you use the module, by pushing the keyless fob, or starting the truck, power is sent down one wire to lock(green/black).

At the same time the module switches the other wire (blue/black) to ground.

Thus the circuit is complete and the solenoids (actuators) are thrown.

When you push the unlock button, or turn off the key, the current is reversed, sending 12 volts down the blue/black wire. While grounding the green/black wire.
Actually quite simple. Inside the module are two relays, that jump between ground and twelve volts, depending on whether you want to throw the locks up, or down. They only ‘pulse’ for .3 seconds, which does the job.

To rephrase, when you Lock the door, power goes down the Green/black wire. When you Unlock the door, power goes down the Blue/black wire.

When you hook up the module, you ground the white/black and the brown/black. These are the other halves of the actuator circuit. These can be grounded at the same place you ground the black wire from the module, and the 85 wire from the relay. Four wires to one good ground.


On routing the actuator wires;

The wires come from the actuator mounted at the rear of the door, under the lock button, then to the front of the door under the skin, Watch out for the window mechanism. You might run it on the outside of the door plastic seal, behind the door skin. The dealership did that on my driver door, then back inside the door and out through the black rubber boot that goes from the door to the body. I pulled my boots loose, they are just held in by a rubber rim, and pushed the two wires for the locks through them. I also pushed the two wires for my power windows with them, but you don’t have to do that. Then pop the boot back in place.

The boots lead the wires to the area covered on the drivers side by the emergency brake cover, on the passenger side by the fuse box cover. Easy to access.

Note, the wiring sounds complicated, but notice that four wires go to one, you can twist them together, and crimp them. I like to solder them.

The red wire from the module joins the red wire from the battery which joins the red wire from terminal 30. That makes three more wires that don’t travel too far.

See, the ten gauge wire brings in the power, to both the module and the relay.

The ground wire hooks to the three wires from the module and one from the relay.

You can put this together on the table, and if you fasten it to the bottom of your junk tray, you can actually Velcro it together, and route the wires in comfort. When you go out you have the wires for lights, horn, hanging free, but the three power wires and the four grounds are joined to one wire each, that you can quickly fasten when your in the cab.

You run the yellow wire from the module to the 87 terminal on the relay, and long wire from the relay 86 terminal to the fuse box.

So most of your wiring is quite short, and a number of your wires you won’t use. Tape them off close.

You can run the horn wire through the same hole you made for the ten gauge wire. I mounted a small siren with a relay, next to my air intake. Details on that if you want.