Where to get a new complete engine?
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Good luck finding a crate engine for an 86.
You'd probably be better off getting a long block. Aftermarket manufacturers (reputable) tend to put parts in long blocks that correct Ford problems or weakness that Ford didn't address when the engine was in production. I'm sure they aren't making Ford crate engines to the original specs anymore for an 86. The 86 351 has been out of production for a while now.
You'd probably be better off getting a long block. Aftermarket manufacturers (reputable) tend to put parts in long blocks that correct Ford problems or weakness that Ford didn't address when the engine was in production. I'm sure they aren't making Ford crate engines to the original specs anymore for an 86. The 86 351 has been out of production for a while now.
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I would suggest checking out your junkyards, you can get some good deals by removing the valve covers to see what kind of shape the engines are in. The 302 I got for my 81 f100 only cost $300 and it has no wear at all. I looked under the valve covers, and the springs were still shinning gold. Look under the valve covers, and if you find a good one, find out why the vehicle it came in is in the yard. The reason my engine was so cheap is becouse the truck was in a rollover, and the coil was melted as if it was in a fire, so the junkyard doubted it was any good, so far all I have had to put into it was about $150 for new gaskets and seals. If you are patient you can find these kinds of deals everywhere.
Last edited by Mr. Finch; 12-15-2004 at 08:53 PM.
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A problem my dad just reminded me of, he has been looking for a 351 for his 97 f350, but none of the junkyards have a 351 for any year. They told me that as soon as they get one in it is gone. Those things must be in high demand so no matter where or how you get one (in a crate or in a yard) you are probably going to have to pay through the nose for it.
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Don't waste time with a "somewhat" rebuild...either do it or don't. Not saying you have to toss big time performance parts into it, but a solid rebuild, with a mild over-bore, slightly larger pistons, have all bearings replaced(cam, crank, rod) replace connecting rod bushings, cam(performance type is at option for the driving you do here) give it new push rods, and make sure the heads are in good shape...at the very least lap the valves, but have the valves, springs, and guides checked as well, and add a decent aftermarket intake and small 4 brrl carb, and you're likely to find this engine will run for quite a long time, maybe longer than the original did. As well...the obvious, new oil pump, timing chain/gear assembly, water pump and thermostat, and what-ever sensors might be questionable. Get the crank checked as well, as it may need machining, and undersized bearings.
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