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the van started going "clickity pop clickity pop" around corners the other day. i got uinder to inspect the CV boots and yep the drivers side outer CV boot is ripped all the way round, and the grease has been flung out of it all over the place.
I got a new axle assembly rather than rebuild mine.
I am a little bit scared of this repair because it was what killed my audi 5000 turbo I had. I never did get it right and ended up selling the car for pennies.
i am assuming i have to take the wheel, brakes, tie rod, off of the spindle. then drop the lower arm. ummm, axle nut? then the flange bolts on the inner portion of the shaft that mounts to the differential? i dont have the right chilton manual to look at!
on my audi i never got the torque of the axle nut right and i kept ruining hub bearings. those are a royal pain to change, and I dont want to do that on this van!
Yes-as far as specifics you will need a manual Chilton's/Haynes. What I would do if I was you and what I've done in the past. Most people don't think of this but I will share this with you. Go to one of the big auto salvage places, the kind with acres and acres of cars. You are not going to commit any crime here. Just simply take apart an assembly at the salvage yard. Even if your not going to purchase the part you could chaulk it up as helping someone out and lay the newly disassembled parts in the van. What you have done now is put yourself through an aerostar 101 beginners class. "Right!"----I've done this before-no harm-no foul. You'll be better for it and if you goof-oh well-its junk, not your car and chances are the part wouldn't have been sold anyway and usually the ride is smashed within weeks. I hope that I've helped. Just a thought. It worked for me. Good luck. Boz
p.s. remember to drag it in to the alignment shop soon after
I did the iner u-joints on my 91. I did not have to remove the tie rods. I did have to remove the shocks, so that the wheel end of the axel would fit between the shock and the spring. My shocks were only a few years old, if yours are any older I would be prepared to replace them if they dont come out in one pice.
Its not that tough of a job, I replaced the u-joints, that was time consuming. 95 should have 2 cv joints instead of a u-joint.
3. Remove upper ball joint-to-knuckle bolt and nut. Disengage upper ball joint from knuckle.
4. Remove the bolt retainer plate screw. Remove plate.
5. Mark the position of the control arm mounting brackets on the flat plate.
6. Remove the bolt and washer retaining the front mounting bracket to the flat plate.
7. From beneath the rail, remove the three nuts from bolts retaining two front suspension upper arm mounting brackets to the body rail.
8. Remove the three long bolts retaining the mounting brackets to the body rail by rotating the front suspension upper arm out of position.
9. Remove the front suspension upper arm, mounting bracket assembly and flat plate from the vehicle.
10. If required, remove and replace the upper ball joint boot seal.
Note the exact position and number of shims on each control arm stud. These shims control caster and camber.
The pivot shaft and mounting brackets are serviced as an assembly. The front suspension upper arm and front suspension upper ball joint are serviced as an assembly.
11. To service front suspension upper arm and front suspension upper ball joint assembly or the mounting brackets and adjusting arm assembly, remove the nuts retaining the front suspension upper arm to the adjusting arm.
12. Remove the front suspension upper arm from the adjusting arm.
ok, I went and got a chilton manual. the parts shop haynes did not make one for 4-wd aerostars. hmmm. ok, so i got the chilton.
in the chilton, there is no mention on how to remove the front half-shafts. NONE!
the extent of their information on something complex like front axle removal is :
"jack up the vehicle and support it with jack stands, then remove the front axle and place it on a clean work surface."
yeah, HOW? jeeze um, theres too many details there, it sounds too complicated! NOT!
ummm, arent we missing about 5 steps in between here?
anyways i called my parents mechanic. he said that you just undo the lower ball joint, and the spindle/ hub plate or whatever its called is moved out of the way after you take off the big axle nut. then it slips out of the hub plate and only a clip holds the axle half shaft into the middle housing, axle, differential, whatever its called.
I've never done the front drive train before, so I'm guessing based on what you've described. I think you're referring to a C-clip on the inside of the differential housing. If it's anything like the rear differential, there is a cross shaft going through the spider gears that has to be removed. Then the axle shafts can be pushed in, at which point you can remove the C clip, and pull the axle shafts out of the housing. Of course this means you have to first remove the cover plate on the housing.
yeah. my mechanic must be confused. i found a few posts on here, and theres no clip exterior of the axle housing. the cv shaft is held on with several allen type hex-head bolts.
the real question comes down to do you have to take the lower ball joint loose? if so is the coil spring going to cause injury, ive heard people taking the upper ball joint loose, and people did it taking neither of the joints loose. some say you need a puller to get the shaft out of the hub, some say not.
i just like to know what im getting into before im at the shop without a tools and parts-runner car! if i get my van torn apart and then need some special tool, or help, im screwed!
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
08-12-2003 09:40 PM
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