1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Lower Ball Joint Replacement 99 ranger 4x4

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Old 11-28-2004, 09:59 PM
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Lower Ball Joint Replacement 99 ranger 4x4

I read the posts on how to replace the lower Ball joint. I got everything apart but I can't get the steering knuckle bracket over the lower ball joint bolt because the CV shaft is bottoming out on the lower control arm thus preventing the steering knuckle bracket from dropping low enough to get past the end of the bolt. I removed the 3 bolts holding the steering knuckle to the hub and bearing assy but it looks like I need to remove the hub first (which means more special tools). Am I missing something? Should I tug harder on the steering knuckle? I'm afraid I'm going to tear one of the boots over the cv joints if I pull too hard.

Thanks
NYMorey
1999 Ranger 4x4
3.0 L
 
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Old 11-29-2004, 08:31 PM
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Maybe this will help....

Arm — Lower


Special Service Tool(s)


Pitman Arm Puller
211-003 (T64P-3590-F)


Removal

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02».

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to «Section 204-04».

µ 3. Remove the stabilizer bar link nut, washer and bushing from the front suspension lower arm (3079).

µ 4. Remove the front shock lower mounting nuts.

5. Remove the torsion bar. For additional information, refer to «Bar—Torsion» in this section.

µ 6. Remove the lower ball joint castellated nut.

1 Remove the cotter pin.

2 Remove the castellated nut.

µ 7. CAUTION:
Support the front suspension arm bushing joint (3085), axle shaft and front wheel knuckle (3K185) before separating the front wheel knuckle from the front suspension lower arm. Failure to do so can cause damage to the front axle shaft assembly.

Using the special tool, separate the front wheel knuckle from the front suspension lower arm.

µ 8. Remove the front suspension lower arm.

1 Remove the two nuts and bolts.

2 Remove the front suspension lower arm.


Installation

µ 1. Note:
Tighten the front suspension lower arm pivot bolts and nuts until snug. Do not tighten to specification until the installation procedure is complete.

Note:
Inspect the front suspension lower arm ball joints (3050) and boot seals for damage. Install a new front suspension lower arm if the ball joint is damaged.

Install the front suspension lower arm.

1 Position the front suspension lower arm to the front suspension crossmember.

2 Install the bolts and nuts, and tighten until snug.

µ 2. CAUTION:
Install the cotter pin into the lower ball joint from outboard to inboard. Failure to do so will cause damage to the wheel and tire assembly.

Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle.

1 Position the lower ball joint into the front wheel knuckle.

2 Install the castellated nut.

3 Install a new cotter pin.

µ 3. Install the front shock mounting nuts.

µ 4. Position the stabilizer bar link onto the front suspension lower arm, and install the bushing, washer and nut.

5. Install the torsion bar. For additional information, refer to «Bar—Torsion» in this section.

6. Install the wheel and tire assemblies. For additional information, refer to «Section 204-04».

7. Lower the vehicle. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02».

µ 8. Tighten the front suspension lower arm mounting bolts and nuts.

9. Perform the wheel-end vacuum leak test. For additional information, refer to «Vacuum Leak Test—Wheel-End» in this section.

10. Check the ride height. Adjust as necessary. For additional information, refer to «Ride Height» in this section.

11. Check the alignment. For additional information, refer to «Section 204-04».
 
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Old 11-30-2004, 06:55 PM
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Thanks Ken, but I read on the other posts that I would be able to do it without removing the lower control arm, torsion bar, et al. Your post sounds like a 2 wheel drive removal. Mine is 4 wheel drive and has a plastic cover over the hub assembly that can't be removed without a special tool.

Anyway, I was finally able to pull, yank and twist hard enough on the steering knuckle to get it over the ball joint bolt without removing the hub and bearing which was good because I don't have the tool to remove the plastic cap. I was then able to press out the old ball joint and press in a new one (this time with a grease fitting).
 
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Old 12-01-2004, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by nymorey
Thanks Ken, but I read on the other posts that I would be able to do it without removing the lower control arm, torsion bar, et al. Your post sounds like a 2 wheel drive removal. Mine is 4 wheel drive and has a plastic cover over the hub assembly that can't be removed without a special tool.

Anyway, I was finally able to pull, yank and twist hard enough on the steering knuckle to get it over the ball joint bolt without removing the hub and bearing which was good because I don't have the tool to remove the plastic cap. I was then able to press out the old ball joint and press in a new one (this time with a grease fitting).
What kind of press did you use?
 
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Old 12-01-2004, 07:12 PM
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I used a 'C" clamp type press that I rented (for free) from Autozone.
 
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