1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck
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1984 F250 4x4 with no turn signal lights or brake lights!
I have a 1984 F250 4x4 with no turn signal lights or brake lights!
I can’t get any light (power) to display even the signal light indicators on the dash. I know that the ignition switch below the dash on top of the steering column is bad as I have bypassed it with a wire to a momentary toggle switch to start the beast. I don’t have a diagram of the fuses on the fuse panel.
Someone posted on this forum that the turn light fuse was fuse 5 but that its power came from the ignition switch? Does this mean that I should replace the ignition switch to get power to the turn light fuse?
I would greatly appreciate someone posting a picture of the fuse panel diagram from their 1984 owner’s manual or if someone has an 84 F250 owner’s manual laying around that they no longer need, I would be happy to purchase it from you.
I had a similar problem were my brakes and turn signals didn't work. I checked my fuse box and all the fuses were fine. However, I also noticed there wasn't any power getting to the box. It turned out to be my ignition switch was bad. Power to the fuses ( for my 1986) came directly from the ignition switch. When I cranked up my truck I would jiggle the ignitch switch and that would fix the problem.
Okay, I have not replaced the ignition switch but I have done some additional testing and I am even more confused!!!
I checked fuse 5 (turn signals & backup lamps), no power at the fuse that I could detect with a test light. However I did accidently moved the turn signal lever to the down or left turn location, with the ignition key turned on, it started blinking on the front marker only, I pushed the lever up (right turn) and it started blinking again. I turned the key off then back on and tried it again, left turn nothing.... right turn blinked at the front only.
Neither of the turn signal indicators on the dash were blinking.
Hazard lights only work on the two front markers.
I tested the brake light switch with the key off, nothing, but with the ignition key on, I had power to the brake light switch, depressed the brake and the switch worked and allowed the voltage to pass to the other wire which should mean that I should have power to the tail lights but don't.
Update – I now have turn signals and brake lights at the rear of my 84 F250. I started out this evening determined to isolate the problem. I first pulled the turn signal lever down for a "left turn" and the front marker flickered one time and stopped. I moved the lever up slightly and the front marker started flashing normally. I then went to the back, found the green/orange wire and undone the inline splice connector and tested the wire…. It was blinking. I twisted the wires back together and tested the brake light switch by wedging a board against the brake pedal, the left rear marker was lit up. I replaced the inline splice connector for the right rear signal/stop light marker and it now works as well.
I still don’t have any turn signal indicator lights on the dash… will have to figure that out.
The turn signal switch is faulty… it works if you move the lever back and forth for a left turn.
If you're referring to a splice/tap type connector(the kind that you fold over, and crimp two wires together side by side, without needing to strip wires) get rid of them! Use solder and shrink tube, and get a good connection. Splice/taps are handy as an "it'll get you home" only type fix. Solder and shrink tube is the only way to do wiring, for a good connection, and it's as waterproof as the original wire. Splice taps have a tendancy of cutting all but a few strands of the wire, and with movement of the truck will eventually break, leaving you without power to something. Even a straight through crimp connector is better, but not the preffered choice if you want things to work, and not have to mess with them again.
RR4E - Yep! that is what they had used to cobble up the wiring to the rear lights. I did replace them with waterproof solderless butt connectors with the heat shrink ends that you heat up to seals the ends to the existing wire. I will check the remaining cluster**** for any more splice connectors and replace them. Hindsight is 20/20 but I should have started with replacing those connectors anyway.
I've fixed a few such electrical nightmares over the years. The style of butt connector you've chosen is pretty good for those who don't have a soldering iron, or the area is just to tight to work in with an iron. I still prefer to solder any connections like that, myself. Well worth the time it takes to get rid of those splice/taps though, they're just a nightmare when it comes to trying to figure out electrical ghosts. One second they jiggle together, and everything works, and the next, you've got lights blinking on and off, and things that won't function properly if at all.
I now have backup lights after finding the wires going to and from the reverse switch had been rubbing on the front drive shaft and wore though the sleeve and completely ground the hot wire into. Someone had used a plastic tie wrap and tied it out of the way of the driveshaft, but didn't repair the damage.
Oh! The splice connectors on the backup wires (black/pink stripe) two on each side splicing two short pieces of wire. I replaced it with one solid piece to cut down on the connections.
Next on the agenda is determining why the turn signal indicators on the dash are not working!
I have a 1984 F250 4x4 with a 351W 4 speed. My directional's don't work, but my hazards do. Also my reverse lights and windshield wipers don't work. I'm not sure if all of these problems are linked together or not. I've replaced all of the fuses and the ignition switch and it hasn't seemed to help. Could someone help me please?
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