I just got my latest oil report back from Blackstone labs a surprise surprise results showed 32ppm of moly in the oil sample. I e-mailed Blackstone asking if I had a set of rings that may be going, or did Chevron reformulate Delo 400 and added moly? Since the other wear numbers were low, Blackstone didn't think I had ring problem. But they were not sure about Chevron reformulating their additive package.

Has anyone heard if Chevron has reformulated Delo 400?

I do have data on a virgin sample of Delo 400 that was done last year and it showed 0 ppm of moly.

Oil sample results can be found here

 

Dan, I don't know about the DELO. But if I recall correctly, Flash has mentioned that they started adding moly to the Supreme oil. You may be able to get some info from Chevron Tech Support. Keep us informed!

Scott

 

I e-mailed Blackstone and they offered to run a virgin sample for free if I send one in. So I'm going to send one in a see what comes back. I checked Chevron's web page but all I could find was the data sheet showing the physical properties of their oil. Oil companies guard the formulation of their additive packages like national secrets.

 

The new Delo should have moly at the rate of 100-120 ppms. Here is the introduction:

http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/nafl...romotions.shtm

I can only assume that you have one or two oddball quarts and this is the reason for the low amounts.
Hope this helps.

 

I'm lost on this. Is moly good or bad and why?

 

Moly TDC is the most common form of moly today in motor oils. The old black Moly Disulfide is not a usable form although several oil companies have certainly tried it. The moly TDC is a clear liquid and is a great antioxidant. Oxidation of oil promotes polymerization of sludge particles and increases viscosity. It is an anti-wear additive and a great barrier lube providing a protective film at high temps and pressures. It is considered a friction modifier by reducing the friction coefficient at the boundary lube state. It is a metal deactivator by inhibiting the corrosive effects of oxygen on metal parts and limiting oxidation. All in all, it ain't a bad additive to have in your oil. I generally look for it in the oils I select. Otherwise, I add it myself but then again I have access to it. If you want to add your own, try Valvoline Synpower additve, it's full of it.

 

Thanks for the info. I probably waited a little late to switch to synthetic at 46,000 miles on my '03 6.0L Ex. I read my recent Blacksone test and at 46K with Motorcraft, molybdenum was 1, while at 82,000 miles and using Delo, molybdenum is 175. The only other real change was Boron going from 0 with Motorcraft to 94 with Delo. Is Boron a result of the Delo? Is Delo a 100% synthetic? Are there aftermarket filters for the 6.0L that filter better than Motorcraft?

 

In motor oils, there are different approachs to achieve satisfactory results. Motorcraft hasn't been using moly or boron as does Chevron with their Delo series. Boron is an anti-wear/ extreme pressure additive. In the form of boron phenolates, it works as a detergent. I guess my education from an old schooler makes me tend to have some of the moly and boron in the oils that I use.
Is it too late to switch to synthetic? No, but then again, why would you want to use it? Unless you are running your diesel at the extremes, it has no value to you. Your engine isn't going to last one mile longer just because of a basestock. The Delo is a Gp II+, not a synthetic, but borderlines the area of dino synthetics. The difference between a Gp II+ and Gp III (synthetic) is the Viscosity Index. Otherwise, the manufacturing process is pretty much the same. If you search the internet, you will find that the dino oils generally yield lower wear metals. Regardless of all of the hype concerning the Gp IV (polyalphaolifins) PAO basestocks, they are no magic bullet. They either are polar or non-polar. Most will use the polar type and then add alkylated napthalenes to cut the film strenght so the additive package can get passed the film to do its job. Motor oils are nothing more than a series of compound problems solved via chemistry. If you look at the link I posted to Chevron, they are the first with the CH-4+ rating. This means that it has additives that will suspend more soot than previously. Most likely they give it a good dose of an organic barium compound. The barium has worked great in all of the testing I have seen.
Is there a better filter than the Motorcraft? The Motorcraft filter will filter to about 10 microns/ 95%/ single pass. For a particle to do damage to your engine it would be in the 40 micron size. If want more filtration, try a by-pass system. One of the board sponsors here is OilGuard. Their unit will filter at the 3 micron level as will the Amsoil and the FS 2500. Avoid the paper towel filters, they allow far too much celulose loose in the motor. A micron is one millionth of a meter.
So, I would think by now you have more questions like what is the best oil for my engine? Since the oil industry has been more dynamic than ever before with new technology, new formulations, new compounds, the oil you buy today will be outdated in a matter of months. The guy that tells you he has been running El Sludgo oil for the last ten years hasn't put the same formulation in his engine twice. Pick an oil that will meet the manufacturers specs, is affordable and cost effective, is readily available, stay with it and enjoy the ride. Oh yeah, the best oil out there is -fresh.

 

Again, Thanks for the reply
I have noticed that the Rotella synthetic that is on the shelves in my town(Tulsa) is 5W40. The Mobil 1 is 5W30, 5W40, and 5W50. Ford recommends 15W40, and that was one of the reasons I use Delo 400 15W40 in my 6.0L. I do a lot of turnpike driving 75mph+/-, 1500+ miles per week. Some of the forums mention a quieter diesel when using synthetic, and others talk about 'chop' not being a factor with synthetics. Also, if you change oil every 5,000 to 6,000 miles, do you need a better filter? Kind of rambling, but I would like to keep running for 250k or more.

 

Shell Rotella T synthetic is a mostly Gp III dino synthetic. Although there are advantages to using a higher group oil, there are also disadvantages. A Gp III oil will require some oxidation inhibitors, doesn't handle the byproducts of oxidation very well, require seal swell additives, doesn't handle sludge well, and does not readily accept the additive package, which is a lot like the PAO basestocked oils. This is why the blends are turning lower wear metals, you get the best of both and each solves problems with the other. The oil from Mobil is Delvac One, do not put regular Mobil One is your PSD. It lacks sufficient amounts of anti-foaming agents to go the distance. Delvac 1 for a PSD is the best synthetic on the market today. It will have elevated wear metals as compared to a dino but will hold its TBN for extended oil changes if you want to get on that program. Otherwise, it is too expensive to drain every 7500 miles.
The Motorcraft filter will go the distance as will others and you really don't need anything better unless going with extended oil changes and then we're back to talking by-pass filtration.
Unless you are pulling a heavy load at the speeds you indicated, like 8,000 lbs+, you don't need a synthetic or better filtration. We have an 04 PSD crewcab,4X4 at work that mainly gets driven like yours. We use Rotella T in the regular cheap dino form 15w-40. We have over 50,000 miles on her and it is running great. We analize the oil every change and the wear metals remain low in comparison to some of the fleets that we track that use synthetics. We expect to get 300,000+ miles from this unit and we change oil every 7,500 miles and use a Motorcraft filter.
I think that the word chop might be in regards to shearing. There are two things in oil that work to our advantage but against each other. One is shearing of the oil which will reduce the viscosity of the fluid, makes it thinner. The other is oxidation which will increase the viscosity, makes it thicker. These properties are used against each other in formualting an oil. The measure of how well the oil handles this is in the end, what is the viscosity? Has it moved out of its intended range? Most oils are going to move in the range some, some will move slightly out of their range but not enough to matter. Synthetics will handle shearing better than a dino but both will shear. But there is more to an oil than just shearing. Rest assured that the formulators take shearing into account when formulating their oils. Considering that the oils of today are almost space age when compared to oils of just ten years ago and there are new technologies coming on line that will shadow these quickly, there is no bad oil out there anymore. Just pick a brand and stay with it.