Any tips or tricks to removing the old block heater? Kinda new to the diesel world and have had problems with freeze plugs in 5.0's just thought I'd throw the ? out there for alittle discussion.
thanks

 

It Has Been Awhile. But I Had A Few Heaters Made At A Place I Used To Work At And Gave One To My Brother In Law. If I Recall, It Has A Screw In The Middle That You Unscrew And Then You Pop It Out. It Is "L" Shaped So Don't Yank It Straight Out.

 

If the plug is not leaking, just leave it in there and add an external tank(inline) heater. Cost is about the same, sometimes cheaper. Installation is less hassle, you don't have to drain the coolant. Just pinch off the right hose, cut, and install heater. They also circulate the coolant. I am using one made by 5 star manufaturing, works great no matter what the temp. Did I mention I live in ALASKA? Good luck.

 

Drain the coolant from the block, there is a little plug on the side of the block (matter of fact, each side) that will let you drain the block after the radiator so you dont get a full bath. The heater has a T set up that when the bolt is tightened, it will mushroom the rubber seal. Loosen it and give it a tap, take hold of the heater body with channel locks and wiggle the "by heck" out of it and it should come out. It is "L" shaped so you will have to twist it to remove the heater core.
Clean the hole with some light sand paper or the like.
When you install the new one, make sure it is positioned so it will NOT touch the block internally.
INsert it , twist it full left and then full right and determine the center position.
If it touches the block, it will short out.
Hope this helps you out.

 

do you guys have any helpful hints on installing the new block heater? I centered it, and tightened that 8mm nut, I stopped tightening once I started to move the heater off its center point. I filled it up, and now it leaks. So I guess I need to tighten it more. how do I accomplish this w/o the whole heater twisting around to where it'll hit the inside of the block and short out. do you use any silicon or any other gasket maker too?

 

I am assuming that you cleaned the bore from any distortions or dirt. I have changed some and did not have a problem with the unit moving from center. The heater seal is kind of tuff to get to seal but should seal without breaking the bolt. Not sure if there is a torque value to the bolt or not. Perhaps someone could chime in here. Malcolm or Sponaugle might help.

 

yeah, I cleaned to hole nice with some sandpaper. when the unit started to move on me while tightening, I tapped it back to the mark I had made as the center value and just figured that was tight enough. I guess not. how the heck can I keep it in place while getting some more torque on it? Was I supposed to use any kind of sealer?

 

My truck doesnt have the cord for the block heater. I thought maybe the heater was bad so someone took it off. Is there any way to check the block heater? I dont want to spend 60$ on a cord and then the heater be useless anyway.

 

To check the BH do a continuity test on the element pins (outside ones I believe.) New wires can be ordered from A/P stores or
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=160012&prmenbr=361

NAPA #605-9722, $16 and some change USD

Cemenacho ......did you orientate the element correctly to the 11 oclock position before tightening....how course was the sand paper.

 

PLC7.3 and everyone else,
well I fixed it (after removing the starter AGAIN). The part was faulty. brand new BH from Ford. the srew that runs through the center had a burr on it and was not tightening all the way. as I was tightening it, it would not get past the burr and the unit was twisting. I re-tapped the threads to clean them up and re-installed everything (at the 11 o'clock position). very frustrating- but at least I don't have to wait for a new part.

 

congrats on the job well done. You will probably find many more situations that will test your patience. Hang in there ... bill

 

Good recovery..........