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Line Of Fire LED Tailgate Light Bar

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  #31  
Old 11-11-2004, 06:28 PM
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check my new thread post...


YOMAN!
 
  #32  
Old 11-11-2004, 07:02 PM
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I have just purchased a White Night Reverse Lighting System from Sears.com (With a price match of course) and will be installing it this weekend. It came with those clip on connectors. Guess I need to wire that differently as well.
I have the white night lights for almost 2 yrs. I used the included connectors and have not had any problems. I did use the di-electric grease and then put plastic conduit and taped the whole thing up. Have driven thru plenty of rain and mud, but don't have snow down here is S. Texas.
 
  #33  
Old 11-11-2004, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mkoser
I would use the cut, splice and solder method, although I would use "Liquid Electrical Tape" on the connections to prevent any water/salt from getting to the copper and eating its way up the inside of the wire insulation. No matter how good you tape, you will NEVER get it sealed perfectly... Especially at a location where you are doing the splicing, with the wheels spinning water and snow at your connection.
Matt
Koser
Good idea. I have not been doing much electrical stuff for a few years. Good to know they have Liquid Electrical Tape out. I will have to get some of that. Where do they sell it?

Thanks,

Dave
 
  #34  
Old 11-11-2004, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by triton_2002
I have the white night lights for almost 2 yrs. I used the included connectors and have not had any problems. I did use the di-electric grease and then put plastic conduit and taped the whole thing up. Have driven thru plenty of rain and mud, but don't have snow down here is S. Texas.
Did you have any problems with the install? How was the relocation?
Does it look nice on there? Any pictures?

Conduit?

Thanks,

Dave
 
  #35  
Old 11-12-2004, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by triton_2002
I have the white night lights for almost 2 yrs. I used the included connectors and have not had any problems. I did use the di-electric grease and then put plastic conduit and taped the whole thing up. Have driven thru plenty of rain and mud, but don't have snow down here is S. Texas.
Like your stop light sticker. Does it really stick out when lit up?

Would like to see it on the truck....
 
  #36  
Old 11-15-2004, 12:19 AM
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Friday night, I got to install my LED light bar on my F150. I have the flareside and bought the 49 inch length which worked out fine. The benefit of the flareside is you don't have to modify the plastic to clear any pins. We don't have them. The install was great. I removed the tailgate and washed the area, measured the center and stuck the bar in place with the included adhesive. I routed the wiring underneath and snipped the plug off and soldered it to the backside of the 4-pin socket. Check out my gallery for a couple of pictures of the lightbar.
 
  #37  
Old 11-15-2004, 12:28 AM
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Thanks

Originally Posted by chains
Friday night, I got to install my LED light bar on my F150. I have the flareside and bought the 49 inch length which worked out fine. The benefit of the flareside is you don't have to modify the plastic to clear any pins. We don't have them. The install was great. I removed the tailgate and washed the area, measured the center and stuck the bar in place with the included adhesive. I routed the wiring underneath and snipped the plug off and soldered it to the backside of the 4-pin socket. Check out my gallery for a couple of pictures of the lightbar.
Thanks for the info. After you hardwires it, what functionality do you retain? Do you still get turn signals, emergency flashers, brakes and running lights?

What brand did you get from who?

If you dont mindd sharing what you paid, that would be nice as well. Going to gallery now!

Thanks,

Dave
 
  #38  
Old 11-15-2004, 08:53 AM
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The plug on the end of the wire does not have any circuitry. Snipping off the plug and hardwiring it allowed me to keep all functionality, running, brake and turn signals. Between the plug and light bar is what appears to be a fuse inline on the ground wire. I left that intact.



My post previously on this thread stated "
I bought mine on Ebay for $59.99 plus $12.95 shipping. The best thing is that they advertise a 30 day return policy. They are listed as Auto X Change".

The brand was a three letter name A??. I can't recall but will post it later today. It was listed on the included directions. It was listed as Line of Fire on eBay.

 
  #39  
Old 11-15-2004, 11:08 AM
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Thanks Chains

Thank you Chains!

One of the companies I called said that it would lose some functionality if you hard wired it by cutting the ends off. Its good to know that there is one brand that does not. Let us know what brand it was.

One other thing, do you think that this 3M Backing will stick if they line-x the lip where you stick it? Probably wont stick to Line X well eh?

Thanks again for the great info.

Dave
 
  #40  
Old 11-16-2004, 12:02 PM
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The brand of light that I installed was marketed under the "Line of Fire" name. The instruction sheet however listed AMG as the manufacturer. The 3M adhesive that is used seems to be industrial grade. The instructions state that you must apply at least 15 lbs of pressure in order for it to be activated. I pushed against the anchor tabs until the foam was fully compressed. It states that it will bond well after 20 minutes but will reach full cure in three days. Sounds pretty impressive. When "yanking" on the light bar, it seems VERY secure. I'm not sure how well it would adhere to Line-X texture but I doubt that there's anything else available that would work better.

 
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