So apparently I need to point my friggin front pinion up a bit. My question is what is the verdict on degree shims? I'm not too fond of the idea but what do I know . . . I've got a . . . nevermind. Seems to me that degree shims up front aren't a whole lot dofferent then front lift blockls. Except that they're uneven and look like a cheese wedge. But we all know front blocks are a no-no.

Pro, what would you think about just grinding an angle into those anti wrap bars instead? If I tookl a 1/4 inch out of them, angles where the back of the spring perch sits it would turn my pinion up a bit without needing those shims. I don't like the idea of the bar, shims and springs all under there . . . something is going to break in a bad way. What do ya'll thinjk?

 

If I were going to use shims like that on my front I would weld them to the perch. You could grind into those anti-wrap bars for your angle but that would create a high-stress weak point that might bend under load when the anti-wrap bars are really under pressure.

 

All the shims I've found are aluminum. I guess I could see about cutting and rewelding the perches. It's not an extreme enough angle to require rotating the C's. Plus I 'm a cheap turd and wouldn't want to pay for that anyhow.

 

get the ones that are included in lift kit spring packs and swap them over to your spring packs! i ran them on my white truck for a while and never knew they were there nor did they cause any damage. i would and prolly will use them again.

i give the idea a 2 thumbs up!

-cutts-

 

Hmm, so much for moving the perches. I forgot the driver's side perch is actually part of the pumpkin. You think 3* would fix something like this or do I need more?

 

3* should be about perfect for that....maybe, just maybe 4* but doubtful, remember on the front that chunk wants to twist down instead of up so if you shim it just a hair above when your axle is under the most stress (when taking off at first) the u-joints will be in perfect line with the driveline

-cutts-

 

Yea, I bet you could get some steel shims made. Wouldn't be that tough. Do you have a c/v flange at the x-case?

 

What about your caster? it does not take much change in angle to cause problems,

No matter what you do it's going to be alot of work, if you turn the housing or the knuckles you will still have to use a shim on the pumpkin side, as far as angled shims go you could get some that have a small enough hole in the center to bolt it to your spring pack with the center bolt,

another thought, build longer spring hangers for the front and/or shorten the shackles on the rear (of the front springs), that would bring your pinion angle up,

 

I was already planning on this, just don't think that alone will give me enough to put my pinion at 0*. I won't be tilting it much so I don't think the caster will be an issue. I believe 6* is wherew you have to start worrying. Then again with the hydro assist I'll ptrobably be all over the road anyway.

 

I agree with skipped here just make sure that your shim can be bolted onto the spring pack that should eliminate the worry of it kicking out, and wouldn't be any worse than an overload spring for axle wrap.

 

Yea, I just talked to him about it, thats what he's going to do. Pretty easy to just make yourself. Besides, that way he can get them dipped in chrome

 

I guess I should have seen that coming, he must have more places to see himself even will under the truck

 

hey pro, you have a hell of a lot more lift than ivan, what did you do to overcome this problem? I would like to know cause soon enough I'll be part of the late 70's on 44's group. HAHA

 

Pro's truck is pre 77' so he has the devorce mount T-case,


Ivan you should keep you eye out for a devorce mount t-case, then you can eliminate your carrier bearing and have the same lenght drivelines front & rear, it would also cure you drivline angle problem, the only down side would be you would also have to come up with a different output shaft and tail housing,

 

Just my 2 cents... but I have broken many of those aluminum degree shims and would never use them on the front. I had my last set made at a machine from steel and welded them to the perch. They cost less too.