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but it doesn't really work too well, i used a propane bottle and a acetylene regulator with a hose running to my air cleaner. the propane bottle is sittin in the passenger seat and it runs good with only 1 pound on the regulator and a little better with 2 pounds, but anything over 2 pounds is no difference. i don't know what it does to the exhaust temps cuz i don't have not hooked up my pyro yet. it is a 89 7.3 non turbo. wait till i get my banks turbo and we'll see if propane helps with a turbo. im saving up. the kit was easy to install, but i had to pay 75 for a regulator and 16 for propane, it wasn't worth it, unless it improves gas milege by about 5 miles per gallon, then i will euse it all the time to save fuel, i will tell ya'll what i think about it in the future. i have not pulled a trailer with it yet. and i think i am gonig to turn my fuel down and see if that hels, its kinda hard to floor it on the highway to see what the propane acts like at wot becausei would smoke everyone out!! i will turn it down and see.
It's vaporizing at the bottle right? Do you think youre getting it all evenly mixed in the air? Do you have some sort of thing that sticks out into the air stream that has pores in it, or does it just empty into the airbox?
Some one else got copper pipe, used the plumber's torch and welding slag wire stuff on a role and welded it to a threaded end for the propane lines. They then drilled a hole into the air box, crimped the open, non threaded end of the copper, and drilled something like 8-12 holes in it. This put the propane right in the airstream. If its just emptyint into the aristream, it may be following a path along the airbox walls and not mixing. A turbo would probably kix it up nice .
Propane should be making a bigger difference than its sounds to be. I think turning you fuel pump back down would help. Ive noticed when I floor it, I accelerate slower than when I steadily increase fuel w/ my foot. It would be like yours, but theres no way to slowly increase. Just out of curiousity, why did you wait for oil prices to jump way up to turn up your IP?
you have to have more regulators one in the engine bay and two on the bottle makes the bottle last and you need a accerator pedal switch. It will clean out the combustion chamber everytime you use it after a while of not using it. check this out www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/ by the way leave the fuel alone its suppose to do that
i turned my ump up about a year and 1/2 ago. i had just got the i.p. rebuilt by a bad-*** rebuilder and i asked him if he would kindly turn the pump up a little, and he said he'd fix me right u. well after $975 and i got it on the road, no smoke. dumb lil ol 16 year ol me said, he didn't do ****, so i got out the allen wrench and turned it up another 1/2 turn. all it did was dump wasted fuel in there. if i get on a rampage, i can make a whole tank go at 4 mpg, but if i stay out of it, i can make it jump to 12. yes, i can tell the loss in power when i floor it as raw ower said. then when you let off with your foot just enough to clear the smoke up, it gains a good 5 h.p. i drilled a hole in my air cleaner housing BEFORE the air cleaner and used a 1/4 piece of copper tubing and crimped the end and drilled 3 holes in it with a 1/8 drill bit, smallest i could find at the time. and my granda gives me free diesel., its red, but it burns. and i think it makes the truck run a lot better also. and i don't know about buying 2 more regulators at 70 bucks a pop. one was a little steep. it works a little better if you turn the bottle upside down.... but the regulator freezes up like a sommbtch. i am thinking about rigging up a little 1/8 valve and using some mechanicle linkage off the go pedal to make it open up. or where can i find a valve that is opened with 12 volts?? i couldn't find one anywhere. i just read the article and it didn't help me that much!! if i turn it on at idle, it knocks and clatters real bad. i turned it u to about 10 si and it made the motor run with the key off. but it wasnt smooth at all. i am going to turn my fuel down and se what that does. maybe change the timing a little too. i may have distribution roblems too. my tube looks just like tho one in the article, but with 3 holes instead of 8.
Its not mine but I know it works I just would not go that route because I'd have a total kit that is dot approved for libilty reason only can't afford to do it yet But I stuck $4500 In my truck this last year new motor, headers , exhaust , clutch tranny rebuild new reverse gear new sicros. I know it works seen it done on farm tractors (Non-turbos).
$850 for the motor EBAY - oshkosh,wisconsin. I think it was a good deal heck ford asks $6000 for a crate motor what a ripoff. I'm get a cummins next time around to stick in the engine bay. I'm gonna try to see if I can do that under $3000 I just got the rings to seated in the 6.9 so I got a long way too go but I should have the money sitting around by then. plus it kind of help when you live in a low cost of living area(The middle of nowhere ,Iowa)
Cummins would be nice too. Long lasting, most available power, lighter, more compact, better mpg... Whats to not like? 5.9L is enough displacement for me if you can easily get 500hp and 800 ft-lbs out of it...
ok, check it out. i turned the fuel down. went and ran it, no change for the propane,accet for it only blew a little smoke instead of a lot, but then i cleaned my air filter and sawed that stinkin bowl off there and wow what a difference the propane made!!! that filter was dirty. k-n. they sure do catch everything don't they?! i have heard people say bad things about k-n like "they let too much dirt in.- and the k-n wore my motor out so bad i had to rebuild it." but i think its really because they didn't clean and oil it back up right. mine had stuff caked all over the filter 1/4 inch in places, as where a paper filter runnin the same length of time in the conditions i drive in would still look clean, and also, i think the flow charactoristics of papers suck. but anyways, after i cleaned the filter, she quit blowing smoke all together and you could feel the propane kick a lot harder. but still, the 0-60 time isn't affected but by about 1.5-2 seconds. it starts knocking kinda bad when you hit the propane. is it supposed to knock a little louder? it sounds like the timing needs to be adjusted. it seems to me like it should be retarded a little to ease the knocking and turn it into power. does anyone think i should advance it more? would a pyro help in tuning the timing? i got one sittin in my closet for it, just never put it in. i used it once to tweak the timing and different carburetor jets on my chevy 454, made it to where it ran 1200 all the time and she runs like a champ.
Knocking, or rattling, pinging, is the sign of TOO MUCH PROPANE. If there is any way with the kind of regulators you are using, to adjust the flow DOWN, do so until there is no audible noise and still noticable power. The older IDI's with aftermarket turbo's use extremely small amounts of propane, around the order of 1.5 cfm at full boost wihich can be as little as 6 or 7 psi on some trucks. A normally aspirated one, even less. Don't drive with it knocking. That is your warning sign.
Propane, which helps burn the diesel more completely, is actually increasing the timing. Set the timing at normal specs.
it works the best at about 1 psi. but it doesnt really make the 0-60 time much better at any psi. but it does have a little kick to it. i dunno if i wanna just take the propane off and leave it alone or not. it alredy runs 15.15 without propane and 14.9 with it and its just one more thing to keep up with so maybe i'll just buy me a gas grill or somethin! thanks for the advice. and i think 15 seconds for the old ford is PLENTY GOOD!! im going to work on a cool air induction for now, till i get a banks. and if i do decide to keep it, i need a valve that switches on with 12 volts, where do i get one?
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