1989Ford Ranger RABS Valve problem
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10-31-2004, 08:50 PM
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#2
10-31-2004, 09:42 PM
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Yes!!! I had the same thing on my 92 Explorer, (and did some preventative maintenance on my 90 Ranger as a result...same system)
I couldn't bleed my rear brakes either, I assume the valve had rusted CLOSED, not allowing any fluid to the rear brakes. (They sure felt funny...something I noticed as soon as I acquired the vehicle. The brakes were firm, no fade, but not very effective) I had contamination in the fluid...it was very black... and I thought I could clear it out by flushing the lines. All to no avail. I figured it was the RABS valve but at about $175 each, I was wanting to try a test before replacing it. I bought a length of brake line...put a loop in it because of it's length, and bypassed the valve. I was able to bleed the brakes and they sure worked a lot better.
Due to the price of the part ($175 plus $100 core) I then figured that I don't need RABS anyway...It's not a very effective system. The problem is that the lights on the dash (BRAKE and ABS) stay on with the valve disconnected. Well, I just hung the valve back on and plugged it in, and left the bypass line installed. Lights are out and my brakes work great.
As a side note, I found a valve listed on fordpartscheap.com for $148 including shipping and no mention was made of core charges. Because of this, got brave and took the valve apart just to look. It was rusted BAD inside. This was a wake-up call for me to service and flush brake fluid...a much neglected practice! Also the procedure wasn't all my idea. This forum gave me the idea to do what I did.
I couldn't bleed my rear brakes either, I assume the valve had rusted CLOSED, not allowing any fluid to the rear brakes. (They sure felt funny...something I noticed as soon as I acquired the vehicle. The brakes were firm, no fade, but not very effective) I had contamination in the fluid...it was very black... and I thought I could clear it out by flushing the lines. All to no avail. I figured it was the RABS valve but at about $175 each, I was wanting to try a test before replacing it. I bought a length of brake line...put a loop in it because of it's length, and bypassed the valve. I was able to bleed the brakes and they sure worked a lot better.
Due to the price of the part ($175 plus $100 core) I then figured that I don't need RABS anyway...It's not a very effective system. The problem is that the lights on the dash (BRAKE and ABS) stay on with the valve disconnected. Well, I just hung the valve back on and plugged it in, and left the bypass line installed. Lights are out and my brakes work great.
As a side note, I found a valve listed on fordpartscheap.com for $148 including shipping and no mention was made of core charges. Because of this, got brave and took the valve apart just to look. It was rusted BAD inside. This was a wake-up call for me to service and flush brake fluid...a much neglected practice! Also the procedure wasn't all my idea. This forum gave me the idea to do what I did.
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11-01-2004, 05:15 AM
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1989Ford Ranger RABS Valve problem
SJ
I had the Ranger sitting up for a few months,so what you say is probably the problem. I think the break in the steel brake line may have been a pin hole previously and the moisture migrated to the valve. I will try to bypass the valve and get it working. Thanks for the quick reply as the wife is on my case to get the truck off the ramps.
I had the Ranger sitting up for a few months,so what you say is probably the problem. I think the break in the steel brake line may have been a pin hole previously and the moisture migrated to the valve. I will try to bypass the valve and get it working. Thanks for the quick reply as the wife is on my case to get the truck off the ramps.
Last edited by syncrotuff; 11-01-2004 at 05:19 AM.
#4
11-02-2004, 01:53 AM
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Yeah, my Explorer had very few miles on it... 67k (1992). The fluid, as I mentioned, was very black and you could see rainbow swirls in it...moisture I guess. That's when I tried to flush it out and it wouldn't on the rear.
The valve is only about 3 or 4 inches long, but the shortest pre-made line at the auto parts store was about 8 inches long. I bought a 12 inch line and put a loop in it and matched up the ends to the gap. If you have the means, making your own line will produce a better job. (make sure to account for the length of the unions on each end). Also, after taking apart the valve, the coils of the solonoid came off seperately. I just plugged those back into the harness, leaving the heavy valve body sitting on my work bench.
Hope this helps.
The valve is only about 3 or 4 inches long, but the shortest pre-made line at the auto parts store was about 8 inches long. I bought a 12 inch line and put a loop in it and matched up the ends to the gap. If you have the means, making your own line will produce a better job. (make sure to account for the length of the unions on each end). Also, after taking apart the valve, the coils of the solonoid came off seperately. I just plugged those back into the harness, leaving the heavy valve body sitting on my work bench.
Hope this helps.
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