I'm looking at Mig welders, and wondering about the Chicago Electric ones that Harbor Freight sells. considering either the 110v or 230v, but leaning toward the 110. I have a old Lincoln 225 stick welder, and a gas welder, but neither is good for body repair due to the heat. what do you recomend, and what should I stay away from? It's not going to get heavy use - this is just a hobby, not a living!

 

If you decide to purchase a MIG welder, I'd recommend getting one that is set up to use solid wire with a shielding gas. Flux core wire will work OK, but it is relatively difficult to see what you are doing because of all the fumes. When you run solid wire with shielding gas there is excellent visibility and no flux to clean up afterwards.

A quality 110 volt MIG welder will do well on thin metal and should weld up to about 1/4 inch thickness if needed. Since you have a stick welder already, you can use it for welding thicker metal.

As far as a brand, you can't go wrong with a Miller or a Hobart MIG unit. They work well and have top-notch factory support.

Lou Braun

 

I would stay away from those. I prefer tig for body work. You could use your Lincoln to make a tig welder. I did that to my old Linde.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v110/t...t=ed8886cb.jpg

 

Impressive - but I think buying something would be a LOT easier way to go!

What's wrong with the Chicago Electric MIG welders - just cheap quality??

 

While welding does warp body panels, brazing was used for years...much lower heat requirement and very strong.

 

I just wanted to say I at one time was alittle leary of Harbor Freight stuff, but after buying a couple of sanders and drills, etc. I can't see anything wrong with any of their stuff. If you do have a problem they seem to be willing to replace it without any questions. The price if you wait for their sales is very hard to beat.

 

Think of the HF welders as buying a Yugo. Then think Miller, Hobart, Lincoln as buying a F-250. The Yugo may work but hard work and spare parts may be a problem.

 

Since I drive a Ranger - maybe I'll look for something in between the Yugo and the F-250

I've bought a lot of tools from HF over the years - been shopping there about 20 years - and not had any problems with what they sell. I'm still using the crappy deep sockets I bought the first time - !!! I know they're cheap, but that's not been a big deal so far!!

I'm not in a rush, and I know there's a lot of competition between dealers, so I'll continue looking around.

 

This is the prefred method.


If you really want an inexpensive MIG, Walmart has a couple CH units. One uses flux core wire and one can use either flux core or sheilding gas. I think the dual unit runs around $325.

 

I have the dual mig HF Chicago Electric 110V welder, and used it with flux core wire for the last 3 years.. I finally decided to go with solid wire and gas shield.. wow what a difference!!..

With only 4 heat settings, its a little hard sometimes to find just the right combo.. but to get small increment variable heat you have to go WAY up in price. Also the duty cycle is a little low at high power (20%) and it will heat protect itself with a safety lockout after 5 minutes continuous welding at high power.

I paid $199 for my welder in fall of 2000 and we've done lots of stuff with it. My son is in Wyoming Technical Institute right now doing welding certification and he said having the welder around to use all this time has made the classes and tests very easy for him. So I consider this a good investment in every possible way.

Sam

 

Hi,

My solution to finding something between a Yugo and an F250 was to buy the "F250" at a price closer to the "Yugo." Specifically, I bought a Hobart 125 MIG welder AT Harbor Freight and got a great welder at a good price! It is upgradable for use with solid wire and gas, but for now I'm practicing my welding skills with flux-core wire. I've been very pleased with the Hobart so far.

Steve

 

Good plan Steve - forgot they had SOME quality names!!!

I've done SOME mig welding - about 10 years ago, but do remember the basice for sheet-metal - tack it first, then tack in between the tacks over and over until you're done - keeps the warping to a minimum... at least that's the theory!

 

I've had a Lincoln stick welder for about 10 yrs. and finally step up, or over to a Lincoln Mig. I use it for hobbies more than the stick and love the results.
I purchased the 135 Lincoln for $495.00, rented a 75/25 % bottle of argon for $10.00 a month and have more fun welding than I ever did with a stick.
They had a 175 amp 208/220 volt, but I settled on the 135 amp 110 volt,
I can plug it in anywhere and have even had it up on the mountain, plugging it in to my little 3500 generator.
Stick with a name brand, Lincoln, Hobart or Miller. They are easier to find parts for, and if you decide to step up, the re-sale is higher!

Tom

 

If you have a tractor supply in your area, they carry welders of the name FarmHand. I beleive they are manufactured by Campbell Hausfeld. The prices are pretty reasonanble. I can't speak for their quality though.

 

Just about anything that doesnt have the name Hobart, Lincoln, Miller or Esab is junk. Some of the smaller Lincolns made for the DIY market are about useless too and Chicago Electric is as bad as Campbell Hausfield. The 135 classes areok but a step up to the 175 gives twice the machine for 20% more money and doesnt tax the wiring in buildings. 120V circuits were just never really designed to weld from. They are very limited.