1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

rearend swap.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 10-27-2004, 03:04 PM
sara_james's Avatar
sara_james
sara_james is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: arkansas
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
rearend swap.

I have a 73 model ford 9 inch rearend I need one for a 53 so it needs to be narrower. any one want to swap one
 
  #2  
Old 10-27-2004, 05:19 PM
merc546's Avatar
merc546
merc546 is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I am using a 9 inch from a 76 F150 it's 61 inches from one wheel mounting surface to the other, it works just fine. It's in a 56 F100 and I am using the stock fenders and bed with no concern over tire rub. By the way the tires are P235/70R15 and the wheels are 8 inch with 4 1/2 inch backspacing.

Chuck
 
  #3  
Old 10-27-2004, 06:10 PM
Grumpy Gramps's Avatar
Grumpy Gramps
Grumpy Gramps is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Southeast Pa.
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Merc456 Did you have to relocate the spring perches? Did the stock emergency cable hook up OK? Are there different yoke lengths (1976) requiring a reworked driveshaft??
Grumpy
 
  #4  
Old 10-28-2004, 07:28 AM
merc546's Avatar
merc546
merc546 is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Gramps (actually I am a great grandpa 3 times)

The spring perches were not modified, the parking brake cable seems a little long so I modified the 56 threaded rod (shortened the rod and rethreaded it) still is a little longer then I would like but it does work also ran the cables thru a couple of clamps to make sure they don't hit anything.

Not sure if they have different yoke lengths I have a 351W/AOD so it needed a custom made drive shaft anyway cost about $200.00 to have drive shaft made.

Chuck
 
  #5  
Old 10-28-2004, 11:48 AM
Grumpy Gramps's Avatar
Grumpy Gramps
Grumpy Gramps is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Southeast Pa.
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Chuck - I'm not in your league... none of my 13 grandchildren have married...yet! Curious about the leaf width on the '76 - are they the same as our '53-'56 models? Also, are the spring hangers similar (interchangeable). Reason I ask is if the leaves are wider than my '54 (your '56) I would need wider hangers etc., also if the perch is wider on the '76 rear how would one use the narrower spring pack from the earlier model? While I'm at it, how much did you have to lose (gain) in driveshaft length to fit the new rear? Appreciate your input.Ed
 
  #6  
Old 10-28-2004, 02:09 PM
merc546's Avatar
merc546
merc546 is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ed

I'm sorry but I don't have any info on the 76 springs or hangers. The spring mounting pads are 2 inches wide and the tubes are 3 inches in dia.

I do know the 55/56 springs are 4 inches longer than the 53/54, the length change is from c/l of axle to the rear mount.

I used new reversed eye springs (5 leaves) and moved both the front mounts and rear mounts up approx 1 inch, on the rear mounts I had to cut off the lower lip and the front mounts were flipped side to side so the springs would not bind.

I'm not sure about the drive shaft it had a FMX trans in it when I bought it with a drive shaft that didn't have any slide. I revised the rear suspension, relocated the engine 2 inches forward and changed the trans to a AOD, so I had to have a new drive shaft made but this time it can travel approx 1 1/2 inches.

I bought the springs and mounting hardware from Mid-Fiftys. Oh I also installed a "C" notch in the frame and moved the shocks outboard 2 inches per side (trying to get more room for exhaust) also had to weld new shock mounts to the axle tubes, I'm using a rear stab bar that I bought from them also.

Hope some of this helps.

Chuck
 
  #7  
Old 10-28-2004, 06:33 PM
mtflat's Avatar
mtflat
mtflat is online now
Lead Driver

Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Kalispell, MT
Posts: 6,494
Received 332 Likes on 256 Posts
I'm puzzled - that happens frequently - finally went out and measured the 9" rear end in my '73 4x4 and drum to drum is very close to 66"

'57-'72 F100 are the 61 1/4" that sara_james is looking for.
 
  #8  
Old 10-28-2004, 08:04 PM
merc546's Avatar
merc546
merc546 is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
mtflat,

All I know is the guy I bought the truck from had the rear brakes rebuilt and was told it was a 76 rear axle assembly.

My rear axle tag reads:WDM-T

This is the info that I have found about that tag label.

Ford Truck 1963-78 F-100
3.50 ratio
35 ring gear
10 tooth pinion
9" Ring gear
Non-Locking
28 Spline axles

What ever the case it does measure approx 61 inches. Sorry if I have given any false info about the year. It just seems odd that they would change the tread on the 2 wheeler when all I thought they did was make the bed approx 6 inches wider but made wheel tubs in the bed sides, but you have the real thing so I stand corrected.

Chuck
 
  #9  
Old 10-28-2004, 11:08 PM
mtflat's Avatar
mtflat
mtflat is online now
Lead Driver

Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Kalispell, MT
Posts: 6,494
Received 332 Likes on 256 Posts
I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. It's all part of the charm of owning one of these trucks. Your axle looks like a twin to the one I put in my '48 - mine came out of a '63 (or so I was told) but I found a casting number on it with a C5 prefix, making it a '65 as best I can figure.

I wonder if your previous owner or his brake man meant '66 instead of '76???

In '73 with the model change, Ford made the frames wider, thus the need to widen the axle housing. I haven't messed much with springs - width or length or hanger style so I'm completely in the dark there. Thanks for comparing notes with me.

Hope sara_james finds an axle.
 
  #10  
Old 10-29-2004, 12:05 PM
Grumpy Gramps's Avatar
Grumpy Gramps
Grumpy Gramps is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Southeast Pa.
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thumbs up

Appreciate your details Chuck but I think "mtflat" makes a strong point as to the actual year of your rear end. Perhaps you can find a casting number on the case and verify. "B" for the fifties, "C" for the sixties, "D" for the seventies and so on. When you switched the front hangers side to side (flipped) did you have to re-drill any new holes? Also, your info on the '55 - '56 springs being 4" longer than the '53 - '54 model was the first time I ever saw that listed. At least I now know that they are not a direct bolt-on (in case someone offers me any). Currently have 351W and a FMX tranny - looking for a floor shifter with cable set-up.
I learn something new every time I visit this forum
 
  #11  
Old 10-29-2004, 12:25 PM
merc546's Avatar
merc546
merc546 is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes, I moved the front & rear mounts up approx 1 inch so I had to drill new mounting holes. Your right I need to find out what decade that assy belongs too. I found the spring info in Mid Fiftys catalog and a friend bought a set for his 56 only to find out he had a 54 frame, they were just a touch to long.

If I find the year I will let you guys know.

I had a lokar floor shifter when I had the FMX trans, have now changed to a AOD. Changed column to a Flaming River with a column shift. Would sure like to quit changing things and get this thing on the road again.

I just got my new spray guns and hobby air breathing system and we are putting together a 18 ft x 13 ft PVC tube based spray booth in my workshop so maybe next spring it will be on the road again.

Chuck
 

Last edited by merc546; 10-29-2004 at 12:28 PM.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:43 AM.