Radius arm rubber bushings look shot. Book shows how to R&R springs etc by first removing the radius arm. Is there an easy way just to replace the radius arm bushings without disconnecting everything.

 

i just replaced mine and i unbolted the radius arm bracket from the frame. the hard one was the drivers side, the bracket was riveted to the frame. so i had to cut off the rivets and then bolt the new bracket on. ( i had to special order that from the dealer, cost me $45.00) i don't think there is a way to do it with out unbolting the brackets though, if there is....I'm not aware of it! good luck.

 

You could unbolt the front axle, and the radius arms will pull right out. Some have gone to the extent of using a ratchet strap, unbolting the radius arm nuts at the bracket, and ratcheting the front axle forward until it was clear. I just removed the brackets myself. I had the same dilema, the driver's side was riveted on. I drilled out the rivets and used new GRADE 8 bolts to fasten it back to the frame. I think it took a 9/16 bit, and I didn't need a new bracket.

 

i bought the new bracket in advance, trying to play it safe. (the way my luck goes i could imagine getting it all apart and figure out i needed a new one when it was too late and had to drive the truck to work the next day.)

hey are the stainless steel bolts as good or better than the grade 8? my local hardware store was out of the grade 8, and the stainless steel i believe was labeled as 8.8? just wondering.

 

I had the rivets torched out when I upgraded my muffler at my local muffler shop. They didn't charge me for cutting the rivets.
Then I unbolted the brackets.
Replaced the rivets with Grade 8 bolts.

Be sure to get instructions (for the order in which they go in) when you purchase the bushings...

Should be an easy fix... 20-30 minutes each side... with a stretch in between sides...

 

Stainless hardware isn't typically as strong as the Grade8 hardware, but is much more resistant to corrosion, ie. rust. I don't think you would have any trouble with the stainless stuff.

 

Here is how I did mine, after finding this site. However, I used an air chisel instead of the torch method. By the way, the socket size was not 1 1/4. I believe it is 28 mm if I recall correctly.

http://www.off-road.com/ford/bigbroncos/tech/rad_arm/

 

That method described sounds alot easier than what i went through. i was using a cheap air chisel and it took forever!! i eventually ended up trying to drill out the rivets, and eventualy used a grinder to finish the job. The right tools make all the
difference.

(ps- i just figured out what "Ojosdestranger" meant, never thought it was in Spanish. I thought it was something to do with OJ Simpson, he drove a Bronco right?)

 

Yes, it is part Spanish and English.
It means, Eyes of a Stranger... Got it from Queensryche from the Operation Mincrime concept album...
"People always turn away from the Eyes of a Stranger, Afraid to know what lies behind the start!"

 

yes i had a milwaukee, i think, with a good sharp tip. took about 3 minutes for each one if i recall correctly.

 

Once again I get the answers I need from people who have done it.
Kudos to all.
I can't tell you how many times on the Corvette Forum people guess at the answer or give advice when they've never actually done it.

Thanks again

OleDog

 

Yes, this forum is "good people," so to speak. BTW, if you use an air chisel to do it be warned that they are LOUD and it's going to take you at least 20-30 minutes of "chiseling" to get all 6 off.

Tom T

 

Well I finally got my fat azz under the car. The rivets have already been replaced. I don't know if that's good or bad but it''l make my job a lot easier.
I think I'll get the bushing this weekend at NAPA

Thanks Again
OleDog

 

A couple of follow up questions, as I am getting ready to tackle this one myself. What size/length grade 8 bolts did you use for this job. I believe there are six rivets but I am going to double check before I go to the parts store. Also, I have read of an issue with a spacer involved in the replacement of the bushings. Can any of you shed any light on that. I hate getting into a job and discovering that I need more parts.

 

Those bolts labeled "8.8" may have been metric since that is a metric bolt designation. Otherwise stainless is fine. I just used the "candle trick" from the Garage forum on the nuts and pulled the axle forward. Grade 5 bolts are OK for this application also.