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  #1  
Old 10-25-2004, 09:47 PM
rockrothwell rockrothwell is offline
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6.9 Conversion to SVO...Need Help with Design.

Hi,
I have a F250, 1983 with a 6.9 naturally aspriated International in it and need to do the convertion to SVO, but everytime I think I have it figured out I then see the potential problems with "my way"

Has anyone out there done a conversion to SVO with a 6.9??? Any chance you could fill me in on it. I figure at this point that I need 2 fuel solenoids apart from the one that's already in the truck for dino diesel.

1st.. I need one solenoid switching valve (without return lines) before the manual lift pump that's geared off the cam for switching from dino diesel tank to WVO tank

2nd...I need another solenoid swithing valve mounted just after the final fuel filter (just before the injection pump). This solenoid switching valve needs to handle the returns

NB! - I figure that both of these solenoid switching valves have to act at EXACTLY the same time or the manual lift pump, being a gear pump (you can use a gear pump for driving hydraulics!) will build up up to 2,000 psi & something will blow, thus they have to be activated on the same switch. ijn normal use (and I'm assumeing here) there is no buildup of pressure from the gear/lift pump as it's vented through the return lines.

Also have questions re the best way to preheat to the 80*C/176*F needed for preinjection, but that's for a bit later.

At this point I have a 15 micron water separator filter and a 10 micron fuel filter which were designed for fuel tank filters and rated to 150 PSI. to covnert these for mounting on the engine I figure aside from the obvious plumbing they also need a bleed valve in them, no problem.

Many Thanks,
Shane Rothwell
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  #2  
Old 10-28-2004, 04:28 PM
TheFrog TheFrog is offline
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try journytoforever.org, I know I'm getting repetitive but it's a good site.
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:02 PM
TheFrog TheFrog is offline
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Ok, I have more thime now,
The common way that the fuel is heated (to pump through lines) is by sending radiator collant through the tank. Don't worry about in the engine, once its warmed up it will take care of itself.
I personally have always thought og an electric heating element around higher capacity fuel lines, but this may put exess strain on the pump, so I'd stick w/ coolant.
By the way, I've never done this, just read a lot about it.
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  #4  
Old 11-03-2004, 08:37 PM
Teedo47 Teedo47 is offline
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Right now I have a 'quick and dirty' svo conversion on my '86 6.9.
Here's what you do.
Remove the front tank.
Cut out the flat part in front of the fuel supply/return lines (front as in the direction the truck goes)
insert a coil of copper tubing (largest inner diameter you can get) around the fuel pickup. add baffles if you want to keep the hot oil closer to the pickup.
Use sheet metal screws an fuel tank repair epoxy to put a new NON-galvanized steel plate on where the hole was, with holes in it for the ends of the copper tubing. I made it one continuous loop inside the tank so that there were no fittings that could leak (although copper can weaken from vibrations and crack...)
Use solder, compression or flare fittings to connect the tubing to two 5/8 inch hose barbs. remove the heater hose that runs from the head to the heater core (the short hose), and put in a hose from the head to one hose bard and from the other hose bard to the heater core.
The first time I did this I routed the hoses over the engine and down the along the drivers side frame rail. One of the hoses melted becase it shifted and went against the exhaust pipe. Now I have the hoses going next to the oil stick and over the transmission.
Where possible, bundle the heater hoses and fuel lines (i replaced the stock plastic fuel lines, and I'll be putting on larger diameter ones when i get a chance) to retain heat. Wrap them with pipe insulation. I'm planning on insulating my tank a bit, too, especially in the rainy season, i figure a wet tank is gonna draw off lots of heat from my oil, and my engine takes along time to heat up anyway.

The pros:
simple, no new filter needed, no solenoids, no wiring, no new pumps.

The cons:
long purge time, if the oil clogs the filter you can't just change back to diesel, might not get the oil to it's most efficient temp, and might be gunking up my ip and injectors (so i put Diesel Kleen in my diesel tank)

The final setup I'm working on is a racor for diesel, a vormaxx for vegetable oil, a different tank heater that should never crack (maybe one from neoteric, www.biofuels.ca), an electric fuel pump (i think neoteric recommends a $100 electric from holley), tank insulation, hose-on-hose (bundle coolant and oil supply and return lines) from tank to fuel pump, move the solenoid to under the hood for short purge, and add a thermostat controlled electric heater (also from neoteric).

Good luck with yours,
Taylor
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Biodiesel/petrodiesel mix w/SVO in progress
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Old 11-03-2004, 09:26 PM
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[quote=rockrothwell]Hi,
I have a F250, 1983 with a 6.9 naturally aspriated International in it and need to do the convertion to SVO, but everytime I think I have it figured out I then see the potential problems with "my way"

Has anyone out there done a conversion to SVO with a 6.9??? Any chance you could fill me in on it. I figure at this point that I need 2 fuel solenoids apart from the one that's already in the truck for dino diesel.

1st.. I need one solenoid switching valve (without return lines) before the manual lift pump that's geared off the cam for switching from dino diesel tank to WVO tank

2nd...I need another solenoid swithing valve mounted just after the final fuel filter (just before the injection pump). This solenoid switching valve needs to handle the returns

NB! - I figure that both of these solenoid switching valves have to act at EXACTLY the same time or the manual lift pump, being a gear pump (you can use a gear pump for driving hydraulics!) will build up up to 2,000 psi & something will blow, thus they have to be activated on the same switch. ijn normal use (and I'm assumeing here) there is no buildup of pressure from the gear/lift pump as it's vented through the return lines.

Also have questions re the best way to preheat to the 80*C/176*F needed for preinjection, but that's for a bit later.

At this point I have a 15 micron water separator filter and a 10 micron fuel filter which were designed for fuel tank filters and rated to 150 PSI. to covnert these for mounting on the engine I figure aside from the obvious plumbing they also need a bleed valve in them, no problem.

Many Thanks,
Shane Rothwell

WELCOME to the site Shane, please read the Guidelines… Check out the list of forums and make sure you read the headings and Read First: notices in each forum.
Enjoy FTE
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Old 11-03-2004, 09:26 PM
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